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About mightymoe

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  1. mightymoe

    CRF 230 Fork Swap Questions

    Well I finally can say thanks to those who put there great ideas on this site and I'm now a proud owner of a CRF230X also. I used a nice set of a 1999 CR125 pro circuit set with rear shock for 150usd a steal. What I did was used the stock stearing stem and had it machined down to fit my bearings they basicly machined out from the part were the stem was fat to the bearing from the 230's diameter right through to the bottem tripple tree so my bearings fit, now the tricky part rethreading. Honda uses a very odd thread pitch 1.75mm from what I remember and you can't find a die 25mm not 1inch anywhere in North America so we gauged the treading with the lath to match the top threads still on the top of the stem, locked the settings and measured where we needed the lower set of threads and boom the threads worked I could spin the same top nut on the new threads. This took some practice a good oldtimer machinest could do this in their sleep but lucky for me I had bought a practice set of triple trees. It looked great it added to the height I was after as I always felt like I couldn't grip the tank with my legs correctly and the bars seemed too low. Now the height was bang on, so I maded a spacer out of some aluminim I had kicking around then put the nut on top and done. For the wheel I used the stock front wheel with the same axle as one end of the axle fits perfectely into the fork and made two spacers one on the brake side the second which was neat idea was a spacer with a thread so you thread the axle into it. It is machined to fit into the lower leg then it is cut to the diameter of the axle and on the side facing the axle it is threaded to the axle's thread similar to the old shocks. I purchased a longer front break line and took it out last weekend to the track and some sand pits and trails man this is a totaly different bike, I have way more control and I can hit jumps faster and go over woops with my front end up and not diving all the time. I raised the rear end by making a new notched type clevis, this made the rear shock a bit longer so total shock length is 16" thats all I could go with out making any mods to the frame or swing arm, as I didn't want to do that just incase I want to sell it later I have all the stock stuff in good to new condition. I pushed the tank in and used the stock stops just like most of you guys, i didn't bother with the front stop I made one but felt like I wasn't getting the right turning radius for the tight turn of a track. The lower bolts on the triple trees I just shaved them down enough so the wouldn't be in the way of possible hitting the tank. That tank thing was scary tho I thought for sure I was going to have a leek so I filled some of seems that was caused by streaching the plastic with some plastic epoxy just incase but it was all good. All my riding buddies couldn't believe how really good the bike looks now and the way it preforms too, guys this mod is worth it and when you think about it isn't that hard to do, Its way better than pilled-up washers in the shock, thats what I had. Thanks to everyone that posts on this site and I'll post a pic. soon my next task might be to use a XR 1990's swing arm to my bike so I could get more rear travel (I'd like to use the cr125 rear shock but that dame canisteris in the way) and rear disk brakes if its cheap enough . My wife and I are expecting our third child in the next week so I'll be a bit busy. Man I love too ride......
  2. I'm going to be adding a 2000 cr125 tripletree soon and would like to know if I have the steam machined down to acept the 230's bearings will possibly work as I have a mill and lath at work. Also what models and years of forks will work on the 2000 triples and can I use my wheel and what do I need to do to make the wheel work? ie new bearings or use a mod to the axel like spacers or shims? thanks:thumbsup: