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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

rbreak

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About rbreak

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  1. I raced a kdx200 back in the early nineties. Back then FMF had a kdx specific kit. It came with a pipe, silencer, new reed block, and jets. It seriously woke the bike up. I had no problem outrunning 125's and hanging with 250's. It would pull 6th gear no problem. I don't remember the gearing I ran, probably whatever it came with stock. But stock, before the kit, it was pretty weak.
  2. Just trying to determine what you are implying, are you saying the lectron is worthless? If you feel that way, that is fine, but we are not "all" having bad experiences. My experience with the lectron has been much better than my experiences with a keihin or mikuni. Like any aftermarket part, some will love it, some wont.
  3. Sorry for the delay in responding, I need to pay better attention to my notifications. I am in the Cocoa Beach area, on the coast directly east of Orlando. I race scrambles in the FTR series, and ride a little single track on our "secret" trails. The lectron is like any other fuel delivery system, it may need some tweaking to get it right. I know I worked a lot harder to get the keihin to where I was only semi-happy with it (never was really satisfied), it was a lot less work to get the lectron good and now I am very happy with it.
  4. I have had a 38mm lectron on my kx250 for the last 2 years now. I use the bike for hare scramble racing and general trail riding in tight single track. The carb works great, the bike runs perfect, and I get much better fuel mileage than with the keihin (even after lots of tuning-pilots, needles, mains, even slides). In the summer time here it is hot (mid 90's) and humid. I raced last Sunday and it was 38 degrees. The lectron works great regardless of outside temps. With the original metering rod it was a little lean, I tried adjustments but it still felt lean. I called and talked to (iirc) Kevin, (answered right away and happy to talk, excellent customer service for sure) we discussed it and he recommended the next richer rod (I forget the rod number, it's been 2 years). After putting in the richer metering rod, the bike loved it, and it has ran perfect ever since. The power delivery is very linear and strong, which I like. No sudden hits or flat spots that can easily happen with a conventional carb using so many overlapping circuits, possibly going from lean to rich, or vice versa throughout the throttle range. The plug always has a near perfect mocha color. I use amsoil interceptor at 50:1, my bike will idle fine forever I think (it might eventually get hot though lol). I have had no issues with the cable or throttle sticking. The lectron is still a carb though, like any fuel delivery system going on different engines with varying ports, compression/squish, pipes, ignitions, etc. you might get lucky and it works great right out of the box, or it might take a little work to get it matched up right. To the OP, that sucks that you couldn't get it to run to your satisfaction, I guess every bike is different. I don't see ever going back to the keihin, I am very happy with the lectron.
  5. This thread reminded me of a baseball hat I still have from when I was a kid, I wore it to a supercross race back when they still made a stop at the citrus bowl in Orlando. Probably early '80s. We got into the pits (not hard to do back then) and I got some signatures on the hat, but they have faded over the years and some are hard to make out. The ones I can read are Mark Barnett, Donnie Cantaloupe, Johnny Omara, Jeff Ward, David Bailey, Jeff Hicks, Brian Myerscough, and Billy Liles. There are some others that are faded or written so sloppy that I can't make them out. One looks like it might be Doug Domokos (aka the wheelie king). The good ole days lol.
  6. I bought a new yz125 back in 1993 or '94 (can't remember exactly). Yamaha had a deal going on then that if you bought a new yamaha motocross bike, Rick Johnson would have a riding class at a local track that you could attend. A few months after I got the bike I got the invite for the class. I went and RJ was the instructor. It was very cool, he didn't ride but he showed us lines that he would take if he had been, and where he would hit jumps and expect to land, where to enter corners, etc. He would watch each of us (there was about 10 of us) ride and give us tips on cornering, whoops, jumps, and just general riding tips. He was very cool, laid back, and appeared to be having a good time. He didn't act like it was something he had to do or anything like that, he seemed to enjoy it. Very cool dude in my book. I have met many other pros over the years at both outdoor nationals and super-crosses for autograph signings/photos, but RJ is the only one that I can sort of say I actually hung out/rode with. A little bit of the topic, but a while back I was hanging out with a guy that was John Dowd's mechanic for many years, but he wasn't working for John anymore at that time, so I never met John.
  7. I have used the info you have posted over the years to turn my '99 kx250 into the best woods bike I have ever ridden. I have conceded a little myself by recently installing an auto clutch, something at one time I swore I would never do lol. For reasons unknown to me, arm pump has become a much bigger issue as I have gotten older, and the auto clutch helps with that. My plan right now is to keep the kx for as long as I ride, but who knows, as I get older (I'm 49 now) and try to keep riding, I may give in to the magic button as well. Thanks again for all the research, experiments, and information you have shared on here. Enjoy the KTM, they are without a doubt great bikes (I had a 200xc, fun little bike!).
  8. Not apples to apples but I have had a lectron on my '99 kx250 for a couple of years now. Bike runs great, I'm very happy with it. Gets better mileage for sure. I never noticed any loss of bottom end power. It was a little lean with the metering rod that came with the carb, I called and talked with them (I think his name was Kevin, he answered every time I called, great customer service after the sale) and they sent me the next richer rod, the bike has ran perfect ever sense. I have a box full of jets and a keihin carb collecting dust on a shelf somewhere in my garage.
  9. I was very unsure about adding to the rebound for that very reason, I was worried about packing with a slow rebound. But, I got the advice to try it from a relatively fast B rider who really likes his shock valved that way, so having an actual user with experience was compelling enough for me to try it. With only one ride on it, it felt really good, but I need to get several rides and races on it before I can really learn its pros and cons. You are right about different strokes for different folks, I don't envy a suspension tuner for that very reason. They can set up a bike by what sounds good in theory, some people will love it some will hate it.
  10. Ok that all makes sense, thanks again for the responses. After reviewing what I typed about my current stack, I found two mistakes, the 24.24 was supposed to be 24.25 (you probably knew that), and I somehow forgot to add the 20.3 that is may actual clamp shim, underneath the 22.3. So having a relatively small clamp shim is probably helping in so far as the shock not being overly stiff even with a larger crossover shim. I should also add that increasing the rebound damping did seem to help by decreasing the rear kick up over sharp edged hits, and surprisingly seemed to keep the back end more stable and track straighter (less bucking) in the whoops. I changed 3 of the six 36.2 rebound face shims to 36.3's, and I was a little nervous about doing that, but after riding the bike, I probably could have done 4 or 5 of them and been ok.
  11. I'm confused, the stock stack didn't even have a crossover that small, I would think KYB knows how to shim them to work as they are intended? Maybe you are referring to being intended for woods riding and the stock stack is intended for MX? Fwiw, I rode this weekend, it was a shortened ride due to all the standing water flooding out a lot of our normal riding areas (lots of rain), but the shock felt fine. It handled roots and trail trash good and even felt good on the whoop sections. It didn't do anything weird or unusual. I will leave it alone for now, hare scramble season is here so I won't mess with it until I have more riding time on it with more varying conditions before I decide if I want to change anything. Thanks again for the responses.
  12. Thanks for the info but the shock is already rebuilt and back on the bike. Hoping to get a test ride this weekend if I can find anywhere not under water (lots of rain lately). I ended up trying a different stack that another rider had tried and said it was great for the woods. It sounds soft, but he is a faster B rider, and this is strictly for woods (no motocross), he likes it, so I thought I would try it. 40.2 (5), 36.2, 30.1, 38.2, 36.2, 34.2, 32.2, 30.25, 28.25, 26.25, 24.24, 22.3. He also stiffened up the rebound face shims from stock, changing three of the six 36.2's to 36.3's. He said it cuts down on the kick back over sharp edges, logs and other trail trash. His bike is a YZ250, so I'm not sure what the differences are in the rising rate linkage, frame geometry, etc and what effects they have on suspension. If it's too soft I'll pull the shock back out and try more face shims. Thanks again for the response.
  13. Hello, I know I'm hitting up an old thread here, but I had my shock apart this weekend (1999 Kawasaki kx250, kyb 46/16), and decided to pull out the hs/ls adjuster. The exchange piston's 8 holes were approx. 2.8mm. I was expecting them to be around 2.2mm per this (and other) threads on this topic. I have a spare shock assembly so I pulled it apart as well, it was the same as my other one. Is it safe to say the kyb hs/ls adjusters on the kyb's are different from Kawasaki' to yamaha's? My adjuster mechanism looks to have a few other differences as well in design. It has 2 sets of shims on each end of the mechanism. Thanks for any info.
  14. Does anything stand out as an obviously bad idea? Is a 20 too small for a clamp on compression, or is .3 too much for a crossover thickness? I wish I had a 40 .15 for the start of the high speed stack, but I only have .2 in the 40's. Thanks again for any opinions or info.
  15. Accidental mis-type on the rebound stack, the 36 .3 was supposed to go after the 28 .1 crossover, not before it, just in case anyone ever uses this for a reference.