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About duckmanco

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  1. well, got the cams installed the right way, checked the valves cold after install but before firing it up, the exhaust was a little loose i think and the intake seemed a little tight, anyway, fired it up and it ran great, no issues in the 30 min. break in. Not sure I noticed a big power increase but I didnt exactly push it either. I also changed the oil after install. Now, a few questions: 1.) I noticed the the clutch side valve of the intake cam was a little looser than the break side valve lash? I am assuming this kind of thing is normal and would require different shims correct? 2.) I only have the stock carb rejetted with the dynojet specific kit w/ RS3 and 3x3 with a 155 main. Do I need to adjust/rejet with these cams? 3.) I think I really need the FCR now, would that enhance the cams at all? Thanks for the help everyone, really came through. Now all thats left is a valve lash check/adjustment and I think these cams are good to go.
  2. ok, we got the cams in right, marks are lined up things moving correctly, but I cant seem to find a definitive on the valve checking. So, do we leave the motor at TDC where the lobes are out and then check both cams at this setting, or do you only check one cam, intake or exhaust, and then move the cams to the other TDC setting and then check the other cam? Its sitting in the garage waiting, so if anyone can answer that one real quick I would appreciate it.
  3. you said, " as long as the marks line up" what exactly do you mean by marks? Im fairly unsure, I think its good to go without reinstalling the cams, but I am going to check clearances today to see if those numbers are right, are they way off usually or is one side good, and the other not?
  4. ok, so if we installed the cams at TDC where the lobes were facing into each other, wouldnt then when the crankshaft is rotated to its other TDC the lobes are now facing out like the install showed. So I ask, for what reason do the cams need to be pulled and reset if this is the case? This is basically what we did, dont get me wrong I will pull them and reinstall if necessary. And also, what about the valve clearances, hotcams doesnt seem to offer much about them, so is it the same process as with the stock cams?
  5. Thanks for the reply, some questions, it necessary to make sure the T line stays in the middle of the window all the time, like by holding it with a box end wrench? How do I know which stroke is the compression stroke? The hotcams install instructions are terribly vauge.
  6. Hey all, well after much debate and figuring it out I went and purchased the stage 1 intake and exhaust hotcams for my 05SM. And needless to say I think I have screwed something up. Here is what happened. Installed the cams and did my best to position them the same way the originals were, however we started this project with the lobes of the stock cams facing each other and not out (while still being on TDC). So, I know I have now started on the wrong stroke of the cams, a) but does this matter and b.) why does it? The real issue I am having is one slight tick as I turn the motor over CCW with a box end wrench. This slight tick always comes at the same time and is faint, but it never fails to be there. This is the only difference I noticed after installing the cams. There is no binding, or catching of any kind, just one "tick" or "click" at a very specific point when turning the motor. What could be the cause of this? Is this normal when first installed? Is it because of valve clearances that need to be changed? Of course after hearing this I didnt fire up the beast and instead quit for the night and came to consult those who know more than I do. My brother and I are planning on starting fresh tom. in the afternoon. So, is starting totally over in order? Also, with the cams, getting them set properly on the chain while still maintaing TDC seems to be almost impossible. How do you know when this is done right? Are these cams something where, once they are set right, its just right and its obvious, or is there infinte adjusment? We cant seem to determine if we set them on the chain properly. Any help from those who have done this, would of course be helpful.
  7. Alright, well I seem to be getting mixed answers but to be honest, I am leaning more towards, "the nature of the beast" with the plastics as another poster mentioned. I am going to take the tech wax to them and see if it helps at all, but I will more than likely be sending them back and not reordering if they are all this way. Thanks for the replys, and hopefully some more people will weigh in with their results.
  8. Hey all, well after the rec. on this board I ordered a set of the black Acerbis plastics for my 05drz400SM. After getting these things out of the plastic bag I noticed instantly that the finish on the plastics is marred up, almost looks like someone got some sort of glue smear, like decal glue smear and, it all over the plastics. I tried cleaning them with everything safe for plastic and nothing changed. These things look great from a distance, but not real good from about a foot away. They cost 40 bucks and I am not happy. Has anyone else had this issue? Did I get a bad set, or is this part of the "dirt-bike plastics" and I wouldnt know because I have never bought them before? Also, to me, it looks almost like it is a manufacturing issue, OR my only other guess is that they got marred up from the bag that they were packaged in. Needless to say I am reaching for answers here, but I am wondering if anyone has had this happen. I am planning on calling the TT store and sending them back, but I am not sure if recieving a new set is going to work if they all look like my first one did.
  9. fair enough, I dont care about the last 500-1000 rpms as I try not to take her up that high, so its stage 1 for me. Also, just to make sure, I only need one of the 9.48mm shim kits right? You wouldnt need one for each cam correct?
  10. I agree, Eddie would know for sure, and I also was surprised to get this kind of email back. In my original email to tech support I mentioned I would be running the stock carb, dynojetted w/ 155main and 3x3 with full yosh rs3 system. I havent looked into RHC, I always assumed they would be way out there price wise, nice stuff I am sure, but a little high on price, anyone know?
  11. for everyone keeping score, I recieved an email back from hotcams about the confusion between stages, and this is copy and pasted from the inbox: Hi, I can understand your confusion. Our stage 2 intake cam that is on our website was originally our stage 1 cam. We also made a different exhaust cam at that time, called the 2004-1E. These two cams were designed to work together. Then we revised the exhaust cam to have an auto decompression mechanism built into it. While we were redesigning the exhaust we redesigned the intake also. Thus giving us the stage 1 setup we have now, the 2047 & 2048 cams. We scrapped the 2004-1E. But for some reason we couldn’t get away from selling this 2003-1IN cam. Everybody loved it. This really confused our cam engineers. So we put the 2047 & 2048 up against 2003 & 2048 on the dyno. Our current stage 1 kit (2047 & 2048) puts our more horsepower & torque through the entire RPM range until the very last 500 to 1000 RPMs. Then we put the same set-up in a big bore. The 47 & 48 cams won that by an even better margin. Our guess to why people like the 2003-1IN cam so much is because it is similar to the 47/48 with a very little edge at the very top-end of the powerband. We are talking from 7700 to 8500 and it’s not much. So with its peak power being higher up the scale, we call it our stage 2 cam. I wouldn’t know what Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky’s part numbers would be. It can be used with our stock exhaust or with our stage 1 exhaust as well. And to answer your other question, all of our cams are designed to run with the stock valve train. I imagine the 2003-1IN being scrapped in future as well. My suggestion is our stage 1 kit. You would appreciate them a lot more than the stage 2 kit. Unfortunately, I don’t have a dyno page to attach. If I can help with anything else, let me know. Thank you, James Schuster Tech. Support Hot Cams, Pivot Works, Hot Rods 515-402-8000 ext 112 515-727-2321 So, it looks like I am going with stage 1 intake and exhaust just to simplify purchasing the actual cams. Thanks for the help and multiple replys you guys gave, I appreciate it.
  12. well, to be quite honest, I am beginning to think you can no longer get the stage 2 intake because of its limited availabilty. This of course is pure speculation on my part, but I have scoured the internet and have come up short. I placed a call to the tt store and they gave me parts unlimited part numbers for the intake stage 1 and stage 2 and exhaust stage 1, needless to say I got excited and ran to the internet to check. Well, the stage 2 number did not work, but the stage 1 cam TT does carry, even though their online catalog will give you an error when you type that number in. SO, TT does for sure stock the stage 1 intake and exhaust. As for stage 2, I plan on calling both TT and hotcams to discuss the issue before I make my order. However, something tells me the stage 1 intake and exhaust may just be what I end up with.
  13. ok, I understand the deal with base gasket, I think for now I will wait on that. I am def. doing the cams for now, but am having serious trouble locating a retailer for the stage 2 intake. I can find both stage 1's all day, but the stage 2 is something different. I need to call TT and see if they have the stage 2 intake in stock and dont have it on the website. But if anyone knows where I can get the stage 2 intake I would certainly appreciate a heads up. You guys have helped me out tremendously, and I thank you.
  14. appreciate the heads up bob, my motor only has 5k on it and I am not quite up for replacing rings yet. Maybe when I pop in a big bore I will be up for the task. And as for the premium gas, well I run it now anyway, so maybe I shouldn't...... 5 bucks to fill this thing is cheap enough I reckon.
  15. alright, so whats the deal with the e base gasket? I hear it raised compression, does this do anything to affect reliability with regards to piston or rings or anything like that? Does jetting have to be changed once I do that? Im also assuming this is something I can get at the TT store correct?