maico450

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About maico450

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    Ontario
  1. Sintex, I guess you have to understand the real problem with Southern Ontario. There are too many people spread evenly arround. Any place you find that will be suitable, will NOT be zoned for motorsports racing. Unless you buy Mosport. The issue you run into is noise. If you find land that is suitable, someone who lives within 10 miles of that land, will limit you to having a very few events ea. year. Thats the way it is. And it will be that way in the Orangeville area too. You may be able to buy an already existing speedway if you have enough $$, but then you wont have enough room. Exepting Mosport. Now you may approach the owners of Mosport, but expect to spend in the area of $50 mill.?? Or check with Carl Bastedo about Motopark? Good luck.
  2. If you look at the mainshaft part #1, the gear there is the smallest in size and number of teeth on that shaft. Hence that is 1st drive gear, which will mate up and power the largest gear on the countershaft, Part #4, that being known as 1st driven gear. The other gears are named accordingly.
  3. My other thought is a defective CDI box. highly unlikely, but it could be retarding the timing too much at high rpm. You can check the timing with a light.
  4. Sounds like an air flow problem. Intake choked off, exhaust plugged? TOO much oil on airfilter? Rag?
  5. If your crankcase was full of water, dont blame a gasket. Put a plug in the end of the exhaust BEFORE you wash it.
  6. Drain the floatbowl of the carb before you try to start it. The fuel in the floatbowl loses its octane after a few days and wont fire. It will start every time if you do this.
  7. If you pryed your pads apart you do not need to bleed the brakes. Shut the bleed valve, and step on the pedal 8 or 10 times, until the pads tighten up on the disc. Before you do this however, make sure your rear brake reservoir is full of Dot 4 brake fluid. Recheck when done.
  8. As the crank assembly was replaced, improper engine assembly can be ruled out. If it was a crank rebuild, then I would question that, but complete cranks are assembled at the factory. You did however rebore oversize to 265cc. This will increase the compression ratio, requiring better fuel to overcome detonation, pre ignition. You were running race gas, and the problem occurred before a heat issue should have become a detonation issue, so I will rule that out. Bore alignment should be checked. With the rebore, perhaps the new bore is not square to the crankcase, or maybe its bored off centre, putting stress on the rod big end. This MUST be checked, as it is really the only thing that could have caused the problem except for poor manufacturing of the crank. Good luck, and keep us posted.
  9. A leaking main seal will have ZERO efect on the crank. It will make the bike rev up, and seize a piston however.
  10. After reading the interviews, my impression is that DK, arguably one the top offroad racers in the world, telling BMW, a newby to offroad racing, that their bike needed to be changed in order to be competitive. BMW refused to change the bike. Who's right? My thoughts are that BMW should have changed anything DK asked for. The purpose of having a race team is to win, and improve your bikes. If your riders are not competing, then you try to change the bike to make it better. Sounds like BMW was telling DK that the bike was not the problem. I think BMW should have been listening, not talking.
  11. Sounds like the bike was submerged under water for awhile, as this is the only way water can get into your gearbox. Unless somebody filled it with a water hose?? Pretty good chance that the crankcases are full of water too, which will make it near impossible to kick over. Pull the sparkplug, and with the plug grounded to the outside of the head, kick it over and see if water comes out the sparkplug hole. Turn the bike upside down and spin the motor over. The exhaust and carb and airfilter will have to be dried out as well. As to the gearbox, multiple oil changes and short drives will eventually get rid of the water, but it might take 6 times, before the milk disappears..
  12. Yes exactly. There are no "New" motors. Only used ones. And the used ones will need a complete overhaul too. So "DONT " buy a new motor.
  13. Skip "1". Step 2 will allow case inspection.
  14. Your engine came with 2 dowels. This case is a good example of where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Many, many hours ago this piston should have been replaced. Perfect example of a lack of preventative maintenance. You should plan on doing everything that I mentioned in my original reply.
  15. Unfortunately the only way of checking your bottom end is to completely take it apart, including splitting the crank apart and inspecting the Big end pin, bearing, bearing cage and conrod, and crank covers. On a Honda, because of the tin cover on the crank halves, most mechanics cannot split the crank and reassemble without damaging the tin covers. So assuming that this may be the original crank, it would be smart to simply replace the crank with a new one, put in new main bearings and seals, and check the tranny for wear, and clutch basket for grooving. To do anything else is simply allowing the clock to keep ticking on the bomb.