• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

husabuzzard

Members
  • Content count

    238
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

72 Excellent

About husabuzzard

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Colorado
  1. Just sayin, if it were mine, I would look into drilling out the egg shaped hole and inserting a brass/bronze bushing. Getting the correct size might take some research, but heck, it's winter.
  2. I have no direct knowledge to share, but I did notice a pinned sticky article on KTM Talk about the starter on the 05 525. Seems they did have a problem, and some of the folks there have ideas about fixing it.
  3. As an example of Kawasaki "fixing" the doohickey, on my 2015 KLR, at 3000 miles I went into the left side to replace the doohickey with the Eagle Mike bar and spring. My stock spring had zero tension left. So bless their hearts, maybe the parts aren't grenading inside the motor, but it is not yet satisfactory.
  4. OK, my mid body gasket kit arrived today. Went out to the shop, installed it. Thank heavens, the KTM runs perfectly. It idles, it has perfect throttle response, it starts easily. The mid body gasket kit fixed my bikes ills. A few tips about installing. The main gasket was a trifle too small to fit in the groove all the way around. I envisioned smashing it when screwing the halves together. So I gently stretched the o ring in specific locations until it fit the groove perfectly. The mid body has a tight interference fit into the main body, so practice without gaskets until you are good at getting them together. The gaskets are too expensive to ruin by pinching or tearing them. The take home message is: Never, never, use carb cleaner on an FCR.
  5. Google "FCR mid body", and good images will come up showing what the whole thing looks like, including the o ring gaskets.
  6. The mid body is officially a non serviceable part, per Keihin. There will be torque bit fasteners that hold it on, located either in the top of the float bowl area, or above it on the outside, depending on model. Then there is a tower that comes out with it, a ring that is inside the main bore of the carb. Go to eBay and search "FCR mid body gaskets", there will be a bunch of listings of these. I got the set that had the mid body gasket, the tower gasket, and new fasteners (6), it was $39.95. Keihin just says to buy a new carb (no profit motive, I'm sure), but these are replaceable.
  7. Is that battery new now, or was it new before you stored the bike for three-four months? The battery is just marginal when fresh, as little as it can be to save weight. These batteries need to be kept on a battry tender as they go to ruin if left untended.
  8. I'm in the process of getting a 2006 400 EXC that I just purchased running. Same symptoms as yours. I cleaned carb, checked every passage way, tried richer jetting, just got stumped. Then I took apart the mid body (the part above the float bowl). There are intricately shaped o rings sealing around the orifice above the pilot jet. Four fasteners take the mid body off, two more remove the tower. I had to drill out the tower screws, too tight, the torque bit just spun it out. My o ring gaskets were melted, at the mid body and the tower, suspect someone soaked it in carb cleaner, a no no. New ones are on the way. If everything else fails, check that. You will need a bit driver set with the special bits to fit the fasteners. When that o ring is bad, the carb cannot draw well from the pilot jet, has an air leak and takes air rather than fuel. I've been in a lot of FCR carbs and never had this problem. Always something more to learn.
  9. Several factors to consider. Do you have a truck heavy enough to pull this thing? Where will you store it? What is your recreational lifestyle? I have a 21' toyhauler, my wife and I use it, we love it, it is our home away from home. It gets used for much more than just riding weekends. We carry bicycles, kayaks, dogs, and all sorts of recreational gear in it. We use it for an extra bedroom for guests at our house. We take it to Arizona for a winter getaway every year. The price is the main thing. Buy it right and you can try the ownership thing, being able to either keep it, or sell if it doesn't fit your needs without too big a loss. Toyhaulers aren't too hard to sell, the price just has to be in the ballpark. The price being compared to renting rooms, campers, etc is a non issue. You could not bother owning a car, and take a cab everywhere. Save all the costs of car ownership. But hell, why do we go to work every day? So we can have toys, and enjoy them!
  10. Motorcycle rated motor oil, same as you put in the motor, is fine in the tranny. Put in at least what is stated by the fill hole. Is it 675ml on the X? On the 450R, we just put in 700ml.
  11. Redlined, you just made some great points. The front end "tuning" of a dirt bike can be very complex. There are so many factors; tire, tire pressure, fork oil, fork oil level, fork springs, fork tube height in triple clamps, triple clamp offset, handle bar height and bend, and even the rear spring preload. If you are real fortunate, your bike just works for you the way it is.
  12. Triple clamps: There is the bling factor. There is the weight and strength factor, which, short of being a world champ supercrosser, won't affect you or me. Then there is offset, which is sort of a dark science. Offset is how far in front of the steering stem the centerline of the fork tubes is. Some triple clamps offer different offsets, more or less than stock, and can change handling characteristics such as quickness of turn in, stability, and headshake, to name a few. As an example, my KTM has adjustable offset, 18mm and 20mm as choices. One is supposed to be more stable, for GNCC and desert racing, the other quicker turning, for moto cross. If you like how your bike handles, I wouldn't mess with it too much.
  13. I'm just over 6', not much hunch over. In fact, with the sub mount and CR High bars, it helps a lot while standing to reach the bars. As to cable extensions, it depends on the individual bike I suppose. My bike is a KTM 300 XC, everything reached just fine.
  14. Well, it's a matter of your taste in bar height. The sub mount does raise the bars about 3/4". I also like how the damper is closer to the bar that actuates the damper arm. It is more out of the way, neater in every way. I have the sub mount with CR High bars, fits me. After having a sub mount, I wouldn't have it any other way.