NofaceSM400

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About NofaceSM400

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Tennessee
  1. All: I kinda figured I'd start disconnecting stuff to find out what's pulling the current, just kinda hoped there might be one of those frequent "bugs", "quirks" or something that's common on these machines... jksgvb: the charge voltage does fluctuate with ramping up the throttle. It ranges from 14+ to 13.5vdc. I thought it was kind of weird the vdc was higher at idle... Noble: now that you mention it, I don't know what scale I had the MM on... but the funny thing is, this afternoon, when I got up (work 3rd shift), there was no current draw. It was zero. I commute almost daily now that it's riding season. No way, even with a weak charging system, should this battery need a trickle charger on it... What am I supposed to do when it's in the parking lot at work for 8hrs? It drained it that fast yesterday. I haven't had anything apart on it since I did the 3x3 mod to the air box, and rejet the carb and Yosh RS3 last spring, right after I bought it. Man, there's a mess of wires on this thing too... I'll keep after it, and let ya'll know what I come up with. If you can think of something else, let me know. JS
  2. Whatta PITA this DRZ is. Hadn't rode it in a couple weeks, went out to ride and the batteries dead. Ok... charge at 2amps for an hour and I'm good to go. Flash forward three days to next ride. Batteries dead again. Charge again. Battery is dead next am after riding it to work (10pm to 6am). Get new battery, and now it's doing it again a week later. New battery measures 1.6mA draw with ignition off. 12.95vdc when connected, 13.1vdc when I disconnect the + lead. The stater's chomping out 14.35vdc at idle, so it's charging. &%$#@! is drawing current with the key turned off? Anyone seen this B4 or where to check first? Thanks!
  3. I'd probably rate a 5. I'm more in the "ride it" mode. But when it comes time to mod or work on it, I can't stop until it's done the way I want. So does 5 mean I'm normal? Heh! far from it if you ask my wife! BTW, it's good to see DRZ400's making a good showing in the TT poll. It's been awhile since I logged in. L8tR! JS
  4. I'm fixin' up this xr80, getting it ready for the kids to ride. The carb was shot, so I picked up an '98 XR100 carb and bolted it on. It runs ok I guess. The motor's probably tired, but everything sounds good, doesn't leak or miss. The problem is when you wack the throttle on the bottom end, it literally falls on it's face. Just bog.... Is there anyway to tune this out? The carb I got has an extra tube coming out the petcock side. I dunno where or what to with the hose. There isn't any port to plug it into... I blocked the tube, and the bike stalls and dies. Open to atmosphere it runs good. Once ya get the motor revved, it does ok for a 20 year old XR80.
  5. Got R Dun! Thanks for the tips and tricks! The other tube was easier. (Why is it always that way?) I first removed the cap screw from the bottom, with all the springs still inside to hold the dampner rod. Man, that was some yucky, stagnant, dirty, nasty crap in there... 20 years of funk. My boy was like.. "wow dad, now I can hit the jumps!" Made all the difference in the world. Thanks again, Jody
  6. thanks for the ideas. I'll keep whacking away at it. It sounds like I'm going in the right direction anyway. If I can't find something to hold that dampner from spinning while I'm turning the hex cap screw, I'll use the bottle jack, use hydraulic pressure to burst the seals... <--that sounds kinda like something you'd see on Mythbusters eh? lol Thanks again!
  7. I have an 85 XR80R that needs fork seals. So I've got the thing 90% apart, and I can't figger how to get the seals out. I loosened the bolt on the dampner rod, but it will only get so lose... and keeps turning... How do I get these old seals out? Thanks!
  8. at least...
  9. I'm still cornfused...
  10. Aren't the cvk40's from the Kaw 650's are the same Keihin cvk40's as are installed on Harley Sportsters, Dyna's, Softails, Roadkings, and the rest of their couch potatoes? (Carbureted Buells too.) There's ton's of them on eBay for cheap. I bought a brand new take-off from a Sportster for $50 Note that I have never put one on a DRZ400 though. I'm sure they're jetted different out of the box compared to the KLX carbs, but other than that, I believe they're the same mixer. Plus with the HD version, you get an ACCELERATOR PUMP! Only hitch I see is that HD carb doesn't have a bell on the A/C side. It's machined flat...
  11. When I went to the dealer to pick up and sign papers for my new Black 06 SM, I asked to hear it run before signing the deal. Guess what? -it wouldn't start. The boneheads didn't charge the battery after they uncrated it 2 days prior. (turns out every bike they put on the floor for the past couple days had dead batteries) I'd bet they didn't charge yours too, or they did, and a terminal is loose. Should be simple, and I'd not worry. I'd also check it myself to save a trip to the dealer.
  12. that's what I've been doing. Loading the shifter and let off to shift. sounds like all is ok, and I'm on my way to becoming a wheelie king! <not!>
  13. I'm cornfused... from what you're saying you can fit a wider tire on a 4.25" rim than a 4.5" rim? I'd like to run a 160 on my 06 400SM, but from what I understand, that's a little too much for the 4.5" rim, and also rubs on the chain. Will a 150 fit the 4.5" stock rim without distorting the radius of the tire?
  14. I've been getting familiar with carrying the front wheel 1st through 5th, and I can only do it w/o using the clutch. Is this tearing up the tranny?
  15. buy a helicoil (metric of course) from your local hardware store in the proper size and be done with it. We use helicoils for all the threads on the aluminum stuff we fabricate at work, right out of the box. It will be stronger than when it came from the factory. whoever told you that it can't be fixed is just plain wrong, or trying to sell you a new top triple clamp.