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matt88

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About matt88

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  1. personally, i just put a 2x6 that is as long as my bike or a bike ramp across the scale and then zero it out. then just roll the bike up the board or ramp and get it centered over the scale. super easy to do. my xr250 is 277 wet.
  2. if anyone is interested, wemoto claims to have never heard of an xlx350, LM spares will not ship, and both PA motorcycles and part-sales claim that this carb was mistakenly put on their website as it is no longer made. looks like this carb is not really an option unless you get really lucky and one pops up on ebay.
  3. well it has been more than a few days and i am not getting any replies from these companies about their shipping policies or about what they are selling. very frustrating. edit- i just got a reply from parts-sales. oregon_rider is right and it is a price for only one carb, it was listed wrong. im still waiting to see how much shipping would cost.
  4. very nice of you to offer to do that. i will let you know what i find out. i have emailed all three companies and only LM spares has written me back to tell me that they will not ship overseas. where did you get your carb from? have you thought about taking some material off the inside of the airbox boot? have you tried using some heat to soften it up some? i know oregon_rider got his to fit into the xr250 airbox. check out this thread- all about jetting the xlx350 carb ok we know that the carb listed from from wemoto is the one that you have on your bike, as it is listed as at xlx350r carb. the part number they list is 16100-KV2-906. here is the picture they have of what they are selling - the carb listed on the PA motorcycles website is for xlx350p. however, it uses the same part number as the wemoto xlx350r carb of 16100-KV2 -906, but lists it as sold as a pair. here is the picture from their website- the carb listed on the parts-sales website is also for a xlx350p and also uses the 16100-KV2 -906 part number and also lists it as sold as a pair. they do not supply a picture. the carb in the pictures is the one you are using on your bike, correct? i am thinking that taggkent is right and that the xlx350 may have been a dual carb bike. there are other threads on this forum where people mention that these carbs are sold as a pair. if i can get one of these companies to email me back, im going to try and see if this is true.
  5. i am going to try to drop down to a 45 pilot jet and see if that helps. i think i am too rich with the 48 pilot jet, even at sea level. if im too rich at sea level, then i would be extremely rich at 7000 feet, especially when the bike is flooded.
  6. hmm, seems strange that 3 different stores would list it as a pair but you could be right. i have emailed all three of them trying to get some more info but havent heard back yet. i think i remember a post you made about getting a 2 for 1 kind of deal with your xlx350 carb, am i not thinking of the right person? even if it ends up that its one carb for around $130, im still am saving so much money compared to buying a pumper from xr's only.
  7. yep, know all about the procedure and how to kick an xr. I can kick through 50 times with the decomp lever in and it will make no difference. The last ride I was on I spent nearly 20 minutes in 95 degree heat kicking the bike trying to get it started after dumping it on the trail. It's just unacceptable. I nearly dehydrated myself and it made my ride miserable.
  8. awesome! so strange that wemoto told me they had never heard of an xlx350r carb yet they have it listed on their website. i will try to contact these stores to see if they will ship to the US. thanks again.
  9. ya i think i will. i am a bit confused though because i read in the jetting forum that if you can turn the fuel screw all the way in and the bike will still run then the pilot is to rich. when i turn my fuel screw all the way in my bike will die. can it still be too rich even if the bike will not run with the screw all the way closed?
  10. 1)year/make/model - 1997 honda xr250 2)conditions - im tuning this bike at sea level, 65F 3)modifications - e-series exhaust with 5 discs, stock header, uni filter, snorkel removed, internally stock 4)current jetting - 135 main 48 pilot needle clip - 3 down from top 5)running issue that is trying to be cured- extremely difficult start when hot and dumped on the trail. (note- the trails i ride are 2000-8000 feet) 6)does the running issue change? affected by motor temp?better or worse when hot? - will start with 1 or 2 kicks when hot and NOT dumped. if its hot and dumped it may take up to 50 kicks to get it started better or worse when cold? - may take 5 - 15 kicks to start when cold. ************* i got the bike started and let it warm up. my starting point for the fuel screw was 2.5 turns out. turning the screw in and out gave very little to no variation in the idle speed. when the screw is turned all the way in and seated the engine will stumble and die if i let it. if i turn it 1/4 turn out it will rev back up and idle smoothly. at 1/4 turn out the bike will start on 1 kick when warm. when riding it at this setting it seems to have very good power from idle to 1/4 throttle. when in first gear and idling, if i whack the throttle hard the front end will lift off the ground. i have never got the bike to do that before. i am thinking that the pilot is too rich if it runs this good with the fuel screw almost closed?
  11. as some of you know i have issues starting my xr250 when its hot and i dump it on the trail. i cant afford a pumper so i spent the day disassembling and cleaning the stock carb on my bike, i figure i have to work with what ive got so i may as well make the best of it. everything looks to be in good working order. bike specs- basic mods (filter, ground header weld, no snorkle), e series exhaust with 5 discs, stock internally. main jet - 135 pilot - 48 needle clip - 3rd slot from the top elevation - sea level temp - 65F i got the bike started and let it warm up. my starting point for the fuel screw was 2.5 turns out. turning the screw in and out gave very little to no variation in the idle speed. when the screw is turned all the way in and seated the engine will stumble and die if i let it. if i turn it 1/4 turn out it will rev back up and idle smoothly. at 1/4 turn out the bike will start on 1 kick when warm. when riding it at this setting it seems to have very good power from idle to 1/4 throttle. when in first gear and idling, if i whack the throttle hard the front end will lift off the ground. i have never got the bike to do that before. i am thinking that the pilot is too rich if it runs this good with the fuel screw almost closed? thinking about my starting issues, the last major non-starting ordeal was while riding at around 7000 feet. i think i was way to rich for this elevation because if i am borderline rich at sea level i know its going to be way richer up high. what do you guys think?
  12. what is your plan?
  13. hey thanks for the search and the info! i have been hoping to find a used one on ebay but have had no luck.