OLHILLBILLY

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OLHILLBILLY last won the day on November 21 2011

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About OLHILLBILLY

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  1. Yeah we need the VIN. I'd say it's something out of the 80's (or earlier).
  2. You old enough to remember the Green Hornet, or did you just run across the "Kato" name somewhere?..
  3. Scrap value. Unless you know the history of the bike personally, I'd bet there are several more things wrong with it than what you listed. Old, beat down bikes usually need every suspension bearing in them replaced, brake systems corroded up, wheels in need of new bearings and spokes. I don't see any mention of hearing the bike run ("carb will need gone through" tells me you haven't), so if you're going on what the seller is telling you.. Buy it for what you could get out of it as scrap at the recycler.
  4. Big picture here.. You're buying a 17 year old 125 for a few $$ from some guy on FB. From the pictures it looks good, go listen to it in person, if it starts and runs good, is a decent price, buy it. He doesn't know how many hours are on the bottom end, you're coming off as a total newb and he's just putting some numbers out there because you're insisting on them. Hell, I don't know how many hours are on the bottom end in my 250, 80 hours showing on the meter I put on it when I got it, but who knows how many before. Cranks last practically forever (300+ hours), it's the peripheral stuff like swingarm/linkage bearings, fork seals, wheel bearings, steering head bearings, etc.., that you need to be checking out instead of stressing on how many "hours" are on the bottom end. In reality, if "hours" are that big of a deal to you, go down to the Yamaha shop and pick up a 0 hours '18 bike.
  5. Just logged on and noticed this thread. Read the first part and jumped to this page to see where it had went. Amazingly enough, the topic is still on gear. Most of the time, with these kinds of threads, by the 4th page, they've morphed from the original topic to something like the "economy in Ethiopia".
  6. It's the anodize coating coming off. Looks rough, but won't actually hurt anything. Only fix will be to source another set of uppers.
  7. Even painted over it should be readable enough. 10th digit, if it's an L, it's a '90. '91 would be an M, '92 an N..
  8. NADA book is $3650, so price is good if the bike looks alright (your link doesn't work, so no idea). Maintenance due.. oil/filter change, clean/lube the chain, maybe a new air cleaner element, bout it. First valve check is around 15k miles. Probably all will still be in spec, but won't hurt to have a look sometime around then.
  9. You can look at the bike and get a pretty good idea as to if it's been damaged. If the plastics are trashed, pipe smashed, back tire is bald, then yeah, it probably took a beating. But if it still looks like it did before. I wouldn't worry about it as they may not have even started it. Change the oil/filter and go on.
  10. My bikes are just old woods bikes, I don't get too obsessed with the cleaning. Enough to be able to see if anything is breaking or going wrong, but that's about it. I usually stop at the car wash on the way home, but that one time I was cold, wet, and wore out, so I blew it off. Never done that again, especially after a mud race/ride.
  11. What kind of bike is it? Do you have a hydraulic clutch with the slave cylinder around the front sprocket area? Or maybe the clutch pusher arm is there?
  12. Usually don't have anything get too embedded under normal conditions. Little engine cleaner sprayed on the problem gorp areas, then a careful hosing with the car wash or pressure washer keeps the worst of it off. But, one time I raced a harescramble right after a rain. Part of the course was through a mud and weeds field, one of those times where you're pretty much pinned trying to keep moving and throwing a rooster tail of mud and junk all the way across the whole field. Was beat after the race and put the bike up as soon as I got home, got it out the next day to clean it up and all that mud and grass had dried and turned into a form of adobe. Water wouldn't penetrate the stuff, so I was probably two hours with a screw driver digging all of it out of the nooks and crannies.
  13. The rocker arm and cam flaking thing was on the older bikes, 998 and back. Electrical gremlins are a dime a dozen on the newer ones, I've dealt with several on my 749. My personal experience with Ducati hasn't been good (to say the least). Poorly designed, poorly engineered, poorly built, totally unreliable PsOS in my book. And even Ducati can't fix them, which leads to a 2 year broke and in the shop far more than at home and being ridden nightmare, ending in Duc buying bikes back and making the owners sign a "nondisclosure" (hush order) contract. I actually know a guy who signed the contract to get out from under a white elephant '13 Panigale. And when it does break, hit the forums and try to find the cause and an aftermarket part to fix it. you just take it to a Ducati dealership, they'll straight up ass rape you on fixing it. Case in point.. The fuel pump wiring loom going into the bottom of the tank on my 749 has a chincy ground wire that's prone to breaking and causing an intermittent bike shut off. Take it to Ducati and the only thing they'll do is replace the whole fuel pump assembly at a cool $1100 plus labor. Or you can get an aftermarket wiring harness and replace it yourself for $104 (which is what I did). I wouldn't recommend anyone get a Ducati unless they were wealthy and had 3-4 other bikes to ride while the Duc was broke and plenty of $$ to throw into fixing it yet again. First, last, and only Ducati I'll ever own..
  14. Yeah, whatever clamps may work, or you could go with an EE kit that has everything (except the fancy Cycra "bend") for $84..
  15. They'll work the same (just without the leak). All the function of the fork is in the springs and valve shim stacks, none of which will be changed. But I would recommend you get a shop manual and do some research before you start, there's quite a bit to them if you've never been inside a fork leg.