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About Bambislayer

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  1. Having owned a 2002 YZ250, a 2004 YZ250, another 2002 YZ250, a 2002 CR250, a 2004 KTM 300EXC and now a 2012 KTM 300 XC let me say these things to address your concerns. 1) Ergos need to be set up on any bike. 2) There is a jetting chart in your manual. Generally if you go one box leaner for your elevation you will still be safe and it should run better. KTM jetting is conservative to account for variables that some owners may impose on the bike. Jap jetting in my experience has never been right stock either.....remember the YZ engine ping at low rpm under a load? 3) KTM brakes are better. Its a good thing! 4) The front end is light but a damper should fix it if you really need one. 5) Starter works fine if you keep your bike on a tender and then plan to start it cold each time with your foot and use the button thereafter. 6) The 300s are smoother than the 250s. Thats their appeal. They have heavier internals so the rev slower and they make torque across a wider rpm range. If you prefer a 250, I am 100% positive that you would be able to easily find a 250 rider on KTMtalk.com who would like to swap his barrel and slug for yours. In the end through powervalve spring changes (think red) and adjusting the screw flush with the case, the 300 will rip!!! Too much for the woods IMO.
  2. the difference is the 2013 models will be available in greater supply and therefore will be discounted. nobody discounted this one because of the limited supply. MX/SX bikes are typically the cheapest bikes KTM sells in the dirtbike world and also the most heavily discounted because KTM typically requires dealers to order bikes from across the range and most KTM dealers cater to the offroad folks and so they simply blow out their sxf bikes to get them gone and focus on making money on the woods bikes. the only thing worse than a brand new example of last year's ktm sitting in your dealership still is an example of last years KTM sxf bike....
  3. I had a 2010 Husaberg FE450 that did the same thing. I found that if after it happened I started the bike, shut it off and then waited until the computer/odometer went out before plugging the tender back in it would not do it.
  4. I like it but its too expensive for some stickers and black rims any of us can put on a 2013.
  5. Your bike already has an hour meter from the factory on the odometer/enduro computer. I would buy a skid plate, a pipe guard, some bark busters break the engine in and then jet it and rip it! Great bike!
  6. I hadnt thought of that but now that you mention it, that might look real sharp. Thanks for the idea:thumbsup:
  7. My humble contribution....after a bath. Nothing too fancy, it just works!
  8. if you are getting blue hubs and want blue nipples, just make sure they match. many times they dont and two different color blues there will look bad.
  9. If JS7 switches to NASCAR all he has to do is install blue lights on his roof and he will the championship hands down
  10. mid to high 3s would be all its worth around here IMO. add on parts dont really make the bike more valuable to the seller. if they were smart they would return it to stock and sell the parts on ebay. if they dont and you can pay what its worth stock (which is what you should do) and you get the parts thats just a bonus. remember one thing about buying used motorbikes. if you over pay you will never get your money. the only way to sell one day and not get hosed is to buy it right on the front end.
  11. Or they have simple green in their garage:thumbsup:
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