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ricfen

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About ricfen

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    Australia
  1. thanks guys gotta be one of the most informative forums ive been on appreciated
  2. and now to really confuse things i was reading trough some other posts on here and seen people mentioning not to forget the ball bearing that goes on the end of the long shaft that is inside the clutch housing.... ironically i have a ball bearing left over so i though i better go put it in. just tried that and with it in there, there is no way the clutch would ever engage. it leave quite a gap between the clutch and the pressure plate. it does clearly show on a parts diagram i seen on here that it should be there but my manual has no mention of it..... i dont know if the ball bearing came from the bike or was just lying around in my garage http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=547944&highlight=clutch+tension here is the link of the diagram. i just read it again and it mentions the splined washer falling off. when the washer was on there i noticed it did fall back off the spline because the spline wasnt long enough. thought that was strange. what is going wrong
  3. Hi Guys finally getting near summer here in australia and time to get by 426 up and running after near killing it last year. (YZ 426 '00) i am putting together the bottom end. the manual i have says i need to tension the clutch bolts to 10nM. thats extremely light, especially when you consider my torque wrench starts at 30nM. does this sound right???is there a trick to tensioning the bolts? i just done them up lightly with a small bit of tension and it feels fine, but thought i would come on here to be sure before i put her back together cheers Rick
  4. ricfen

    2006 big bore scam

    just for the record..... im into building tough chevy engine and in my experience JE are top notch pistons. so wouldnt worry too much about that one Rick
  5. completey agree....didnt realise it was a removable part. i thought is was a part of the block...i will look it over again today and order one this week...... thanks for the pricing but im in sydney australia....not gonna be cheap over here
  6. Hi all i found the problem on my bike and im not sure how worried to be the gear to run the counter weight was broken but i have chipped a couple of other gears in the process. that part i can live with (maybe until i see the bill for the replacement parts) what i need help with is there are 2 ball bearing looking things in the block and one was failry damaged. do i need to worry about this? what are they for? and if they are of great concern is it repairable or do i need to replace the block???? i will try to attach a pic but not sure how i will go sorry about using rapidshare.......can anyone suggest somewhere else i can host the pic????? TIA http://rapidshare.com/files/55825084/DSC00287.JPG.html Rick
  7. Hi all i found the problem on my bike and im not sure how worried to be the gear to run the counter weight was broken but i have chipped a couple of other gears in the process. that part i can live with (maybe until i see the bill for the replacement parts) what i need help with is there are 2 ball bearing looking things in the block and one was failry damaged. do i need to worry about this? what are they for? and if they are of great concern is it repairable or do i need to replace the block???? i will try to attach a pic but not sure how i will go sorry about using rapidshare.......can anyone suggest somewhere else i can host the pic????? TIA http://rapidshare.com/files/55825084/DSC00287.JPG.html Rick
  8. ricfen

    I might be in trouble

    what was the conclusion to this problem????? i have exactly the same drama going on. ive pulled the top end down on mine and all looks good.i push the kick starter by hand and it locks up still. im about to pull hte bottom end apart but thought i should look for advice first i was thinking bearing? not bigend as i have checked that and it feels fine. im thinkin more bearing in the gearbox etc
  9. Hi all i have a 00 426 thats driving me crazy. i have read through this and other forums and see other people having the same problem but never a conclusive answer. the symptoms are... i can kick start it without using the decomp lever no problems at all.when it starts, which isnt hard to do, the only noticable differences are it has a rattly sound at idle, as they all seem to have, but mine is a fair bit louder and it lacks a bit of low end power.i only noticed this when i rode a friends bike.top end it has no problem at all i have had the head done, of again and retested thinking a valve was leaking.changed the timing chain thinking it was stretched.re shimmed the valves 1/2 dozen times to be sure and had the barrel off and checked the ring clearance. i just spoke to a mechanic in the local bike shop and he is saying the barrel may need replacing which is quite expensive.i dont mind paying if it is the fix...but i dont wanna do time for killing this guy if it isnt. any help please....... Rick
  10. good call.it has only done a few hours.how long does it take for a good seal??? good advice.thanks heaps
  11. another question...are all these thumpers a little on the rattly side???? when i put this thing back together all was within spec but was still a bit noisy.from memory a mate had one brand new in 2001.was a wr250 and im sure it was a bit noist too????
  12. yeah should have added hat the rings were done at t he same time.all in spec. and timing is right as far as i know.i do have a workshop manual and followed that to put it back together.everyting seemed ok. i would assume if the cam timing was out it would run fairly rough??if i just started it for you and you got on i doubt you would notice anything was wrong. just a little worried there is something about to go wrong that i dont understand and want to fix it before it happens thanks already guys Rick
  13. Hi all.. my frst time here and already asking for help i just bought a 2000 yz426 off my brother in law. quick history...it was a good running bike buy being a young bloke with too much $$$ he decided to pull it down and do rings valves etc... problem is when it went back together it can be kick started without using the decomp lever.(use to need it before,and the cams havent been changed to the newer auto decomp ones) im no mechanic but am quite a keen car enthusiast and have built plenty of cars and engines so i decided to pull it down and check it over. the decomp lever setup was suprsingly obvious in its operation.it isnt sticking on which is the first thing all the bikes shops suggest i had the head re checked by 2 head shops and both said it was 100% perfect. i also checked the shims a few times.definitely correct as well when the bike starts you wouldnt know the difference.it is now a little rattly because i have only ridden it once and the shims need looking at again. only other symptom is it lacks bottom end power.but i have put that down to the carby needing tuning.still thought it worth a mention in case its related any ideas?????i have surfed around the net and seen a few people have had the same problem but never seen the answer
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