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ftl900

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About ftl900

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada
  • Interests
    Sportbikes, dual-sport, dirt bikes.

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  1. How does the California deal work if you live in Nevada? I'm in the same boat, living in Las Vegas. Looking at a good deal on a dirt bike, but no title, and I want to eventually plate it.
  2. I don't think stator connections would cause the bike to die immediately and randomly start back up a few minutes later. I could see that causing a charging problem, but not a running problem. Did you have the same problem of random dying as if the key were turned off, and then randomly working again later?
  3. The battery I used is on ebay for $143 plus minimal shipping. I bought this one: Shorai ATV Duration Lithium Battery 2004 Arctic Cat 90 2x4 # LFX14L2-BS12 I physically measured my existing battery, double-checked their dimensions, and then ordered that one. It fit exactly like the original but gives me twice the cranking power. STARTER UPDATE: It's a few months later, and the starter life is a non-issue now. With the '04 start parts upgrade, the bike is not eating starters anymore. I think the bike was kicking back on compression while starting and tearing up the starter. New problem. Somewhere between the previous owner and me, I've picked up an intermittent short somewhere that absolutely kills all power... quite randomly. It might be something I've done, it could have been a pre-existing problem that I didn't notice when I bought the bike, and it may have randomly popped up. I can be riding in third gear and trucking along, or at idling or anything and the bike will just randomly die. Turn it off and back on and the red light comes on, but when I try to kick it or use the e-start, the light goes right back out. All power is gone. It won't restart, and the red button light won't stay on. It reminds me of a bad battery connection, but I've checked (and rechecked) that. If I let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then it'll start back up and run for another 30-40 minutes, give or take. So it seems to be related to the bike heating up, altho I hit some pretty high temps last time out (220) and then it randomly died awhile later. I've unplugged all the wiring to the lights at the battery and unplugged the speedo gauge, and it doesn't help, so it's not those. I checked from the main power switch down the harness to the plug and opened that up, but it has a rubber gasket inside and seals really well. Same with the CDI box harness. I'd replace both if the CDI box wasn't $500 new, and I'm not certain that replacing that or the power switch would resolve my problem. My keyed ignition does tap into the factory harness, so I'm gonna remove that from the loop next, but being an intermittent and frequently random problem like this, it's really tough to test or tell when the problem is fixed.
  4. After the 2004 starter parts, a new head gasket, and a stronger 14ah lipo battery, the bike rocks!! No more starter problems! It's a monster!
  5. This is getting kind of drawn out with recent changes.. I have the new starter and the 04 starter conversion parts installed, but it's too hot to ride in Vegas, with daily temps over 110 F. Also I'm moving to Seattle in 9 days, so everything is packed up for the move. Helmet and riding gear is already boxed up, so it'll be a couple of weeks before I know the outcome. I am planning a riding/camping trip August 20th if the move goes smoothly and nothing else gets in the way, but there are a lot of moving parts there so we'll see.
  6. I have a 2007 TTR125. It has electric start, but is not the big wheel... I think the wheels are like 14 inch and 17 inch or something like that. Can I just bolt a bigger front wheel on it, or are there other concerns? Disregard, I looked up the parts on Bike Bandit and found out the fork tubes are different too.
  7. I have just installed the 04 starter upgrade parts with the most recent starter. We'll see how that goes. That also replaces the idler gear and the starter cover, so I'm hoping ONE of those was the problem. The bike kick-starts very easily all the time. Not like my 400 that required the moon and planets to be aligned, I can sit on the seat and kick this one. I also upgraded my battery to a lipo. Since it's a 7 amp-hour battery, it doesn't have a lot of juice for cranking, so with the lipo, I was able to get a 14ah battery in the same size case. So now I have twice the cranking power.
  8. I'm struggling with electric starter problems on my 2003 WR450. I used to have a WR400 and I liked the bike a lot but at 61, I'm getting too old for kick-starting a bike after picking it up. The 400 was a bear to kick over but started easily once you kicked it right. I liked it but I really wanted the magic button. So I sold it, and a few months ago, I bought a 2003 WR450. I got a good deal on it, but like most of the bikes I buy, it needed some TLC. It also didn't have a starter in it at the time. The seller gave me some BS story about removing it for the weight. But he didn't remove the whole starter mind you, just the inside parts that spin. I got a good deal on it so I bought the bike and I put a starter in it. And a new battery. (I had to put in a new head gasket too, but I don't think that has anything to do with starters failing) PFA. Each new e-starter starts out working great for the first few starts, but after a couple of rides, it starts binding and working intermittently- sometimes nothing at all, click-click as I press the button, sometimes it starts fine, and sometimes it struggles to turn the engine over as if it's under a great load. I replaced the solenoid just because it was cheap and easy to swap, but that wasn't the problem and didn't change anything. I checked voltage at the starter when I hit the button and I'm getting 12+ volts there. I've been through 3 starters in 4 months. I thought the first starter was defective when it went bad. I got it swapped out for a replacement and within a couple of rides, it was bad too. So I decided maybe that brand of starter was poorly made. I bought the third starter from a different seller, and a different brand of starter. The first 2 were Mitsu/AMDD and the third and fourth are Arrow. When I removed the last one (#3), it had chewed up wear marks on the starter spline. I began to suspect it's compression kick-back problem against the starter that's doing it, so I bought the 2004 starter upgrade parts and I will put those parts in with starter #4. The good news is, I'm getting much better at changing the starter. When I did the first one, I removed the subframe, carb, and a lot of other stuff. Now I'm down to about 15 minutes to have the starter out. The bad news is, I haven't ridden this bike very much in 4 months. I actually bought another bike that I'm riding while I get this one sorted out. If it doesn't work out this time, I'll probably sell it and move to something with a more reliable e-starter. I'd hate that, because I really like my 450, but the e-starter was the only reason for selling my plated 400 and buying this 450.. for when I'm winded, beat, gasping for air and dog tired after picking that bike up too many times. I've researched a fair amount, and the only 450 starting issues I've found are bikes that don't want to start. This one starts up fine, and actually kick-starts pretty easily. So I'm wide open for ideas or suggestions on this.
  9. Sell the TTR250 and buy an XT250. It has a steel tank. I can't imagine why your son is having such bad luck with plastic gas tanks, I've owned half a dozen dirt bikes, all well used, and never had a leak or any problem. I've had 2 TTR225's, a WR450, a WR400, a KDX200, a TTR125, and my son had an ATK250. Never a hint of problem. I wonder if maybe your colder climate is playing a part in that?
  10. As long as you get dirt bike grips, you'll be fine. Don't get ATV grips, it won't end well.
  11. When it comes to the rear rack, anything that fits the XT225 will fit the TTR225/230. I had a TTR and an XT side by side, and the frame is exactly the same, so you can use an XT rack.
  12. There is no driver side on a motorcycle. Only left and right, as you're sitting on the bike. 225 is a great bike, I have one. It'll climb almost anything.
  13. I have a wheel off a TTR225 that has a shallow dent in the wheel and is missing 4 spokes but the hub is good. If you're interested, I'm in Las Vegas 89134. I'm hoping this isn't another case where someone creates an account, asks for help with their first and only post, and then is never heard from again.
  14. At your height, I'd suggest you look for a TTR225 or TTR230- they're really the same bike. It's about 80% of the size of the TTR250 and other full-sized bikes. It won't wow you with power, but it pulls like a tractor and will climb anything. It's also electric start, which is cute at the beginning of the day, but by the end of the day, your buddies will be tired of kicking and you've got the magic button.
  15. Maybe in the UK, plastic paint is worthless, but here in the US it seems to work really well. I just told you that I bought a used beat up dirt bike and couldn't tell that the front fender had been rattle-canned. I think that's proof that it does stick pretty well, unless you need a picture of it. By looking at the top of that fender, you would never guess that it was originally blue. I took it off the bike, and had no clue until I looked underneath. Then I sprayed the gas tank of my TTR225 with black paint made for plastic. It went riding the following weekend, and was dumped several times- at least one of them involving fuel leaking out, and there's still no blue showing. It holds up very well, and I'm impressed by how well it works. This is the stuff I used, ordered from Amazon.com.