SoCalMX70

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About SoCalMX70

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Riding, Guitar
  1. Time Left: 13 days and 21 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    BRAND NEW in the box, still shrink wrapped, white Clarke tank that I bought for my YZ last year. I was going to go with the all white look with retro red graphics, but later decided against it. My loss is your gain! These tanks retail for $240.00 brand new. No pictures... It is literally sitting in the box it was shipped in, still wrapped! It's a stock white tank. Here is a link to the info on it if you need it: https://clarkemfg.com/tanks/catalog/yamaha/yz250yz125-2002-2016-stock-capacity/

    $150.00

  2. Their big bikes still need updates. Im guessing 2020. New YZ65 just came out, new YZ85 coming in 2019, 125 and 250 to follow?
  3. Excellent information! Question for you since we have the same bike... At stock setting, does the stator line/indentation (located approx 7 o'clock) align with the line that is on the CASE? I know this isn't something to be heavily relied on for accuracy. I am still going to do the real measurement (stator vs fww) when the dial gauge comes in. Just curious.
  4. Also, remember, the .01 setting is for both the regular YZ and the X these days... so it doesn't really matter what CDI you have on which cylinder imo. Yamaha spec'd .01 for both models. They arent THAT much different from each other. I'd make your adjustments based on feel and obviously eliminating detonation if you have it. I'm betting the .007 to .01 timing change happened when Yamaha changed the cylinder head on the YZ in 2011 (slightly less compression than the 2010 and older heads, to allow for better compatibility with new/shitty fuels). This is also when Yamaha started unifying the US with the Euro-spec YZ. The bigger silencer was the more obvious change around that time. For transparency sake, I'm running a 2010 YZ head and have done the power valve mod as well to my X. It rips! Even if I play with the timing, I'll be running 50/50 race fuel forever because... California.
  5. The manual for the regular YZ and the X is one and the same. Any differences between the bikes (where installation/setup is concerned) is differentiated within the manual. In this case, it is indeed .01 for both bikes. Yes, the gas here sucks, which is why I 50/50 mix with VP110. This exercise with timing is just for me to check things out and perhaps experiment down the line. Thank you for all of the wonderful information in this thread!
  6. Started reading this informative thread a bit, thinking I should check my timing to be safe. However, manual says stock setting is .01 BTDC. Why does every post in here refer to .007? Thank you!
  7. Haha, it isn't that bad. That (and other long winded jetting threads) are about getting that last 3% to having perfect jetting. Getting these bikes to 97% is super easy and just perfectly fine for most riders.
  8. I'd start 48 Pilot, 175 Main, N3EW-2. Then read the #40 Power Jet thread and really get into it, haha.
  9. Thank you for the replies! Pretty sure I have a good handle on what I should be looking for/expecting with adjustment. Even if I didn't, like the cheeky reply said above, I'll just turn it and see what happens. I'm mostly playing with it for late in the day motos when braking bumps are massive... Interesting tidbit though... I went back and read the manual again and realized it says the MAXIMUM adjustment is 2 (TWO) turns out! For some reason I was thinking it was around 4 turns, but that is probably Showa equipment.
  10. Just wanted to make sure I had the correct base understanding before I head out this next week. Hadn't touched it before, so I figured I'd do some reading. If anyone does a search on this they would see what I'm talking about in regards to the confusion surrounding it, and no I'm not talking about bike speed vs shaft speed...
  11. I did a search... It resulted in my general understanding of this adjustment being turned upside down and twisted around. I also saw a topic where it was mentioned that the HSC adjuster on KYB shocks is mostly useless in the sense that you get very little out of anything short of wide changes. So, in relation to my 2016 YZ250, what can I expect out of this adjuster if it is 1 turn out compared to 2.5 turns out? What types of changes *should* I notice on the track, assuming all other adjustments are within range (spring rate, sag, fork height, neutral clicker adjustments)? I'm a MX guy btw. Thank you for your help!
  12. For pure moto and 50/50 race gas, should one be erring on the side of rich? I'm finally going to dig into this and experiment with the 40 PJ. Just seems most are trail/woods guys here. Worst case I try different jets and learn something, haha. Going with 48/175/N3EW-3 to start. 0-2500', SoCal weather. Probably N3CW-3 for Chauilla Creek MX (3500').
  13. New Clutch (OEM plates and springs) New Grips (ODI half waffle) New skidplate (same Acerbis as before. Last one fell off somewhere... I obviously didn't tighten the clamp down enough after last oil change. Was fine for over a year and dozens of removals prior. Oh well) New front disc guard (Light Speed) New number plates and backgrounds to be color appropriate for my class at my upcoming races. Matches those '96 replica graphics quite well!
  14. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    BRAND NEW in the box, still shrink wrapped, white Clarke tank that I bought for my YZ last year. I was going to go with the all white look with retro red graphics, but later decided against it. My loss is your gain! These tanks retail for $240.00 brand new. No pictures... It is literally sitting in the box it was shipped in, still wrapped! It's a stock white tank. Here is a link to the info on it if you need it: https://clarkemfg.com/tanks/catalog/yamaha/yz250yz125-2002-2016-stock-capacity/

    $150.00

  15. Sounds like a total douche. These 2 threads I've read today about RB tell me all I need to know. I'll certainly never bother with him. There are PLENTY of engine guys out there that can do competent work based on what you specifically ask for, not just what they "always do".