Four Paws

Members
  • Content count

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Four Paws

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Idaho
  1. Great information and research Zomby! My wife rides a TTR125L. Unfortunately, the engine is quite different from the DRZ. I have opened up the airbox, done suspension work, and have a VM26 Mikuni carb on the bike. The carb woke it up big-time, and the jetting is spot on. I am ready to do some engine work and get some more power out of it! Hotcams seems to be the favorite cam for the TTR. The exhaust lift and duration seems small - makes me think high torque - the bike has plenty of that. I want to open it up in the mid-range in particular. Intake 6.8mm/227* duration Exhaust 5.9mm/223* duration Takegawa also makes a cam, but has limited info on their website (if you could call it that - LOL). Intake 6.4mm/215* duration Exhaust 6.6mm/241* duration Crower power lists a G1 grind that seems to be the most anemic of all of them at 5.7mm lobe lift, 214* duration. Powroll makes a racing cam, reground from the stock cam. No duration numbers listed, and from what you posted about Powroll earlier in this thread, I am not really too interested. From your experience with cams, and knowing probably nothing about the TTR125, do you have any suggestions for me? Should I take the time to contact crower or megacycles about a custom grind cam? I unfortunately do not have any information as far as the stock cam lift/duration numbers. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Sorry if I pirated your thread. Josh
  2. I am with ACS on this one. The 26mm YZ80 carbs work great, as do the bigger 28mm Mikuni round slide carbs! Although harder to jet than the Keihin, the Mikunis offer finer adjustments to get it dialed in perfectly.
  3. What are you smoking? 2 HP is almost a 30% gain - yeah right. I don't know what fabricated dyno data you have seen, but no exhaust will give that much power on a TTR125. I suggest sticking with your tip, and smoothing the inlet of the pipe (you have to pull the pipe to do this). Smooth the weld that attaches the flange to the header pipe. A stock pipe will keep the torque where you want it. If you are going BBK with a cam, an aftermarket exhaust will help you a bit more.
  4. Yeah, the airbox mod and uncorking the pipe should make the stock jetting at 7500 feet about perfect! All I know is, it was lean at 4500-5000 feet on a hot day jetted stock with an opened up airbox and exhaust.
  5. If it is a (mostly) stock bike, and it is hot out, stock jetting will work fine. At 5k-7k feet asl, even when hot, we ran 1 step richer jetting in my wifes bike before we upgraded carbs. For 7+ I would recommend stock jetting.
  6. Well, only you can decide if the mods are 'worth it for her needs'. Does she ride well, or does she put around in 1st gear? Is she using this bike to build skills so she can move up, or is she only riding because you twisted her arm and bought her a bike? My wife rides a TTR125L and rides it well. She has grown with the bike as I have modified it. Started stock until she was comfortable shifting, clutching, standing, braking, turning in all types of terrain - rocks, roots, sand, creek crossings, you name it. We ride in the rocky mountains 4000' to 10,000' ASL. As she progressed, I modded her bike. First I cut the top off the airbox, and re-jet the bike. Then I opened up the stock pipe. Ground the flange on the (removed the booger weld job from the factory) and smoothed the transition into the pipe. I also built a 1.5" diameter exhaust tip and grafted the spark arrestor screen (from the stock tip) onto the bigger tip I made to keep us legal. Then I upgraded to a larger carburetor - currently a 28mm mikuni roundslide. 11:1 Wiseco and Hotcams stage I - there are a TON of things to do to wake these bikes up - each mod is definitely worth it to me, you need to decide if it is worth it to you. Full YZ suspension in the works for this winter as she rides far beyond the limits of the stock suspension. As far as I am concerend, mod the stock exhaust, and spend the $250 you would waste on a pipe on something more beneficial - like a new carb and a cam!
  7. It will give your bike more HP! Save your money for something else and run the stock plug. In a TTR, you likely wouldn't notice the difference, except in your wallet.
  8. Get rid of all that extra weight - take off the battery, starter, etc. Also, the E model has a stator with lighting coils on it - these coils add rotating mass to the flywheel, increasing the lugging ability of the engine, but taking even more 'snap' away.
  9. You know, the sticky TTR125 thread at the top of the forum says the Yoshimura pipe won't fit with the BBR frame cradle. It also says the stock pipe won't fit. Well, I have a BBR frame cradle on the wife's bike and the stock pipe fits just fine. I am really wanting to get her a Yoshimura pipe, but I have heard differing answers regarding the fitment, or lack there of, with BBR frame cradle. Will it fit without modification? Does anyone run a Yoshimura pipe and a BBR frame cradle that didn't have to grind the frame cradle? I think it is a great pipe, but if it doesn't fit, and they haven't changed their design, I will have to get a Big Gun or BBR. Big Gun just has a better price point.
  10. If it is an '06 and your dealer is cool, take it back in and trade it - they should give you almost purchase price, and just get her a bigger bike - a KX100 would be perfect! You will have a fortune wrapped up in converting that bike...just cut your losses now! You will be ahead in the long run!
  11. You can buy the round slide Mikunis online at Sudco.com. They are somewhat challenging to dial in, but make a world of difference. You have to make sure the carb has, or will accept a 175 series Needle Jet. If you are around sea level, I would suggest the following parts so you can tune it to your application. 175 series P-4, P-5 and P-6 needle jet. A 2.0 slide. Several main jets (200, 210, 220, 230) Several pilot jets (40, 45, 50) A 5DP7 needle and a 5L1 needle. XR200 carbs also work great on TTR125s, but I have heard that they are too tall to fit under the tank and require the tank be 'lifted' about an inch. No experience with this though - again, just hear-say.
  12. You most likely didn't and don't notice this condition because you are up in the rpms when riding - even when riding slow speed, the bikes revs are up because of the low gearing. If you are just idling along on flat ground - you have to just be putting with the throttle closed - and crack it WOT, it will bog and stall if it is held in this position rather than slowly turned/feathered to get past the flat spot. Change the carb and feel the power!
  13. This bog is impossible to tune out until you upgrade carburetors. The stock 20mm carb sucks. Trust me, I have played around with it quite a bit. When you crack the throttle wide open, you rely on a bunch of well tuned circuits to meter the correct amount of fuel - If you are at sea level you may have a bit better luck, but if you live in the mountains (like me @ 5000' ASL) you will be disappointed in its performance. I upgraded to a 28mm Mikuni roundslide on my wife's TTR125L. I have it 90% dialed in, and am waiting on the last 2 needle jets I need to tune it to perfection. If your airbox is cut out, and you have opened up the stock exhaust, you should be able to get your jetting better, but not perfect with that 20mm carb. What worked best for me when I was running the stock carb (remember, at 5000' ASL) was 1 step richer on the pilot, and 1 step richer on the main. If you are close to sea level, I suggest 2 richer on the pilot, 2 richer on the main. Good luck, and when you are ready, upgrade your carb to a 26mm or 28mm round slide carb! I like to tune the bike so you can start it with the choke on and immediately turn the choke off and it will idle. This means a bit rich on the bottom, but rich on the bottom compensates for that nasty bog you get...and helps the bike perform until the needle and main jet can catch up.
  14. The 26mm carb makes a HUGE difference on a stock bike with airbox mods and a pipe. It can be jet correctly, it just takes time to dial in. I have a 28mm round slide Mikuni on the wife's 125L, with stock motor, pipe and airbox mods. I have it 90% dialed in. Waiting on a few needle jets to come in and it will be perfect. Galster12mX, what is your elevation? This makes a big difference dialing it in. I suggest a P-4 needle jet, 5L1 jet needle - in clip #3, 45 Pilot Jet, 220 main, air screw 2 turns out. This will be a very good starting point if you are at or near sea level. Also, you will want a #2 slide. If you are at high elevation, 1 step leaner on the pilot, 1 or 2 steps leaner on the main, 5DP7 jet needle, #3 slide, Don't give up, that stock 20mm carb is perfect on a 50cc bike! Not a 125!
  15. no more advice or info? I am ordering parts/rebuilding the forks soon!