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stryker1080

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About stryker1080

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    Alberta
  1. stryker1080

    2011 CR450F - Can you tell me if this noise is normal

    Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure... Not used to all the top end noises...
  2. Hey everyone, I picked up a 2011 CR450F from a local rider. I have been riding two strokes for over 10 years, and wanted to get a newer bike (my old one was a 91 CR250) and went with a four stroke. The bike runs awesome, has lots of power, easy to start. My friends who ride 4strokes says it sounds perfectly fine and normal, but there were couple of noises i was hoping you guys could listen to and ease my mind... 1) the clunking noise, i know four strokes are noisy in the top end compared to two stroke, but is this normal? Person at shop also says it sounds normal. 2) the air sucking noise when camera is by the air filter (towards the end of the video). Is that normal too? I know that these things suck alot of air in, and i know there are no leaks around the area. Got good seals all around... 3) Noise is not in video, but if i am riding and start getting close to stalling or decelerate with the gas in low gear, i hear a chain slapping noise. I cannot tell if it is the actual chain or if it is from the top end, for some reason i think it is tope end. It sounds like a chain slappy noise. Any idea's on how to narrow it down or do people hear a similar noise? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p49xmmE755c&feature=youtu.be I will be checking my valves in 4 hrs once i go through this set of oil. Please let me know, thanks!
  3. stryker1080

    Winterizing dirtbike

    Hey everyone, I just recently picked up a 2011 CRF450R, and live in Edmonton, AB. Just getting ready to store/winterize the bike, and was wondering what you guys typically do... Do you a ) Put fuel stabilizier in the tank and run it for a bit and leave it over the winter b )Drain the tank? If so, how do you drain the tank with fuel injection? With my old CR250, i would just disconnect the hose to the carb and drain easily...
  4. stryker1080

    91' Honda CR250 crank issues

    Thanks for the reply. I cannot spin the crank by using the rod, it is very difficult. I can spin by grabbing that stator and rotating a quarter turn and then it gets stuck. I can turn it further by using my socket wrench and turning the stator... There is definatley a tight spot. If the crank bearings were shot so that is hard to turn by hand, i wonder if that is why my engine started dying. Too much friction to overcome.
  5. stryker1080

    91' Honda CR250 crank issues

    Hey everyone, Not sure if this is the right forum to post in... I have an issue with my bike and i was hoping to get your thoughts / opinions. Some background information: I was out riding, been riding for several hours. Did some small creek crosses, took a short break, then went riding again. Within 500m, the bike started making a metal ratting noise. I initially thought it was just some rocks (we were riding through rocky area), so i pulled in the clutch and killed the engine. Inspected drive train, looks good. Started it up again, seemed to make a rattling noise and it runs for couple of seconds and dies on its own. Decided to take it home. At home, after the bike has had some down time (was a hot day that day), i tried starting it up. Starts up with choke, runs for two seconds, and dies. Didn't run enough for me to determine if rattling was still there. By this point i am conviced it is something with engine so i started to tear down. Took head off, cylinder off. Look at the piston, looks fine. Very slight brown colour around exhaust side, piston measurements seem within spec and cylinder. No scoring marks. Top end seems ok. Now my question: I took the stator off, and try to turn the stator (crank) by hand. It is pretty difficult. I take a socket wrench and turn it, and it does turn, but it probably needs atleast 5-10 ft-lbs to turn and it gets tight in one spot. The cylinder is off, now what would be a normal operation. Should the crank be very easy to spin by hand? The bike is in neutral. Should i be able to push up/down on the piston and the crank should turn easily? It is fairly difficult to push down on piston and rotate crank... How easy/difficult should it be? I wonder if my crank bearings are gone? Is there any other checks i can do? I did notice when i drained the oil, it did have some milkyiness to it. If some water did get in during one of the small creek cross (not very deep), would that be enough to wreck the bearings. My thoughts are that it would be more of a long term issue where things would eventually start corroding... Just want to know if there is anything else i can check/try before moving forward. Don't want to be splitting cases for no reason.
  6. stryker1080

    91' Honda CR250 crank issues

    Hey everyone, Not sure if this is the right forum to post in... I have an issue with my bike and i was hoping to get your thoughts / opinions. Some background information: I was out riding, been riding for several hours. Did some small creek crosses, took a short break, then went riding again. Within 500m, the bike started making a metal ratting noise. I initially thought it was just some rocks (we were riding through rocky area), so i pulled in the clutch and killed the engine. Inspected drive train, looks good. Started it up again, seemed to make a rattling noise and it runs for couple of seconds and dies on its own. Decided to take it home. At home, after the bike has had some down time (was a hot day that day), i tried starting it up. Starts up with choke, runs for two seconds, and dies. Didn't run enough for me to determine if rattling was still there. By this point i am conviced it is something with engine so i started to tear down. Took head off, cylinder off. Look at the piston, looks fine. Very slight brown colour around exhaust side, piston measurements seem within spec and cylinder. No scoring marks. Top end seems ok. Now my question: I took the stator off, and try to turn the stator (crank) by hand. It is pretty difficult. I take a socket wrench and turn it, and it does turn, but it probably needs atleast 5-10 ft-lbs to turn and it gets tight in one spot. The cylinder is off, now what would be a normal operation. Should the crank be very easy to spin by hand? The bike is in neutral. Should i be able to push up/down on the piston and the crank should turn easily? It is fairly difficult to push down on piston and rotate crank... How easy/difficult should it be? I wonder if my crank bearings are gone? Is there any other checks i can do? I did notice when i drained the oil, it did have some milkyiness to it. If some water did get in during one of the small creek cross (not very deep), would that be enough to wreck the bearings. My thoughts are that it would be more of a long term issue where things would eventually start corroding... Just want to know if there is anything else i can check/try before moving forward. Don't want to be splitting cases for no reason.
  7. stryker1080

    03 CR250 Pinging, possible cause?

    If the main bearings are worn then you will hear slapping type sound under deceleration.
  8. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    I stopped hammering it, that way was not working for me... Instead i put the fork and my fork seal driver in a vice and sucked it in, rotated 90 degrees, sucked in , etc.... Worked first time
  9. stryker1080

    spooge..

  10. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    Allright got working on it again today, i hate my work schedule never get a good chance to work on the bike but ill have all weekend.... Anyways, i got the stuff back together, oiled all new seals up and slid them on, got the guide and slider bushing in place, tapped it in... Now the oil seal! I cannot get the damn oil seal in. I am so close, probably 1 mm deeper and ill be able to see the grove for the snap ring. I have made a lil driver out of a abs pipe connection and am pounding on it with a wooden block. Is there some trick to it? Should i pound hard or small taps and alternate? I dont want to hit any harder cuz i think i seen a part of the oil seal tearing just a bit...
  11. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    THe dissasembly went without a hitch, but quick question for you guys... The manual says to replace the bushings if they show any copper, mine do BUT i dont think it matters: On my slider bushing, the ID of it has teflon on it but the OD does not. Since slider bushing is fixed relative to top fork and only relative motion is between itself and fork slider (touching on ID), then theres no point in replacing that bushing correct? Same thing with the guide bushing, the ID shows copper but OD still has teflon . THe guide bushing is fixed on the fork slider and only relative movement is on the OD between itself and fork tube. Doesnt seem like there wuld be a reason to replace them no?
  12. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    Thank you I will try that tomo after work!!
  13. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    Here is a pic of the damper bolt Here is the assemlbly of the fork ... From the assemlby drawing it doesnt look like the bolt threads into the damping rod so it should come right out, i keep turning it in the "softer" direction or CC and it doesnt move at all....
  14. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    I cant get the damping adjuster bolt out , The damping rod doesnt spin when im trying to losen it so it doesnt seem its connected to anything... From the exploded view in manual it looks like its just simply threaded in. Maybe its cross threaded
  15. stryker1080

    Fork seals

    Was gone for a little while but now im back and at it again... ANyways so i got the locknut and spring guide off... Poured all the old oil out (glad im changing that too, was contaminated with water... looked milky). Now im about to take the damper adjusting bolt out but i already turned it out like 20 turns and its still not out... 1.Is there some trick or is it alot of threading?? 2.Is there anyways i can replace the seals without breaking apart the fork tube from fork slider?
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