HONDA NO MORE

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About HONDA NO MORE

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    Utah
  1. I would guess the previous owner had a little helper in the age range of 4-7 that was just helping dad. My kids put all sorts of stuff in whatever hole they can find on my bikes.
  2. Gray, thanks for the comments, I may try the 06 exhaust with the 08 intake. I did talk to the British guy at engine dynamics, he did not recommend repairing the head, it needed five new valves, three seats needed series work, it took out the exhaust journal in the head and the tower, I bought a used head off eBay for 600 it appears to all be good, it gets here tomorrow and I'll see if all the valves are sealing, but it comes with cams and everything, he will let me return it as well if I don't want it, guess I will see
  3. Shredmasterz, Gray, thanks for the reply, i was waiting to see what you had to say. I was 99.9% certain, i think in 08 they changed the porting a little and changed cams, correct? I have always heard that the 06 cams had the best low to mid out of all of those years, guess we will see how it likes that short little exhaust!! Or was that linked to the CDI. These older bikes once the head is ruined, it makes the bike just about worthless, crazy how much it would cost to build a new one using OEM parts. And yes I was aware of the old style head with external oil routing, it is very interesting to me how the 06-09 deliver oil to the head, through the clearance hole of one of the head bolts, took a few minutes and the compressed air nozzle to figure that one out, pretty cool design.
  4. Hi guys, will a 2006 450 head and cams work/fit on a 2008 450? Picked up a project bike and trying to get a head off eBay.
  5. Hey guys, Have an 2008 YZ450, I am in the motor doing some stuff and noticed that the wrist pin has some scuffing on it. The piston is fairly new still from the previous owner so i just want to replace the wrist pin. I know the piston is aftermarket due to the retaining rings that hold the wrist pin in place vs. the circlips use on the stock piston. It does look like to be a high compression piston as well. My question is, will a stock wrist pin fit an aftermarket piston?? Obviously the diameter should work, but what about length and wall thickness?? Just want to get something ordered and get it put back together. Thanks,
  6. Hi guys, despite my user name i just picked up a super clean 2005 cr250, i have rode a yz250 for the last 5 years and got tired of the poor handling so i decided to go back and give Honda a try again. Oh, and please don't tell me to buy a keihen, I may do that, but want help with the current mikuni carb. Elevation is 4500 ft Temp ~65 °F Stock Mikuni Carb Stock engine and exhaust As bought condition Main jet 420 Pilot 40 Air Screw - 2.5 turns out Needle - Stock, clip in middle position Float ~6mm - Drained the bowl empty while bouncing in the bed of my truck while i drove to the mountain. With these settings the bike runs okay but is a super rich pig, the plug is black and dripping, i have a whole bunch of spooge coming out of the exhaust, and it has a pretty decent bog to get it on the pipe. Once on the pipe it seems to run pretty good. 1st attempt to fix the jetting Main jet 380 Pilot 40 Air screw 2.5 turns out Needle - 2nd position from top Float - set it to 8.5mm - Still leaks full out of the vent when i tip the bike a little bit, but only out of the left side, the right side i can lean the bike almost till the handlebar touches the ground with no issue, which is what my other bikes have always done. Runs better, still has the bog, it seems like it is running out of gas a little when i let it run hard in 5th gear for 10 seconds or so. Plug looks much better. The shop didn't have any pilot jets, so i just had to play with the needle and main and float. Will check some other shops tomorrow for more pilots. I was told that to compensate for the elevation to multiple the stock jets by 0.92, which gives me 385 on the main and 36.8 on the pilot. any suggestions, mostly curious why the carb is still leaking out of the vent on one side, I have jetted bikes before and will get the jetting figured out eventually.
  7. Hi guys, despite my user name i just picked up a super clean 2005 cr250, i have rode a yz250 for the last 5 years and got tired of the poor handling so i decided to go back and give Honda a try again. Elevation is 4500 ft Temp ~65 °F Stock Mikuni Carb Stock engine and exhaust As bought condition Main jet 420 Pilot 40 Air Screw - 2.5 turns out Needle - Stock, clip in middle position Float ~6mm - Drained the bowl empty while bouncing in the bed of my truck while i drove to the mountain. With these settings the bike runs okay but is a super rich pig, the plug is black and dripping, i have a whole bunch of spooge coming out of the exhaust, and it has a pretty decent bog to get it on the pipe. Once on the pipe it seems to run pretty good. 1st attempt to fix the jetting Main jet 380 Pilot 40 Air screw 2.5 turns out Needle - 2nd position from top Float - set it to 8.5mm - Still leaks full out of the vent when i tip the bike a little bit, but only out of the left side, the right side i can lean the bike almost till the handlebar touches the ground with no issue, which is what my other bikes have always done. Runs better, still has the bog, it seems like it is running out of gas a little when i let it run hard in 5th gear for 10 seconds or so. Plug looks much better. The shop didn't have any pilot jets, so i just had to play with the needle and main and float. Will check some other shops tomorrow for more pilots. I was told that to compensate for the elevation to multiple the stock jets by 0.92, which gives me 385 on the main and 36.8 on the pilot. any suggestions, mostly curious why the carb is still leaking out of the vent on one side, I have jetted bikes before and will get the jetting figured out eventually.
  8. Dave, what dunes are you running a 10 paddle at? Are you overly careful about g-out transitions? Some I go thru are 4-5 gear and really smash the rear end down. I only ride at St. Anthony, they have some massive hills out there. My bike hates me with a 8 paddle Turbo paddle, although they have the about the tallest paddles I have seen. I think you are right, just up the pressure, run an ultra heavy duty tube and enjoy not buying and changing paddles.
  9. Well, just got back from the Dunes and had 2 flat rear tires during the weekend, missed out on two rides because of them. I have been duning for 18 years and have found that you get a lot better performance out of your machine when you run the tires in the 6-8 psi range, the issue is that you increase the chance of getting a pinch flat when you g-out the suspension. I have been running turbo paddles for the last 6 years and really like the stabilizer bars on the tire it helps tremendously to make the rear not step out when sidehilling. So you pinch a tire, get a flat and then ride the bike back to camp. Doing this makes the cords pull away from the carcass on the inside of the tire, these cords will then saw/eat/ruin any tube you try and run in this tire, we have had some luck running another tube, cut along the inside diameter as a liner, but still have some issues. I have never seen this on a dirt tire, must be the huge cups deforming the carcass when it is flat. This gets expensive when you have to buy 2 new paddle tires every time you go to the dunes if you have problems. So my question is, what is everyone else doing? Has anyone tried running a Mousse insert? How do they work? What other paddles are you guys running? Have you run them flat, and do the cords tear off the sidewall of the carcass? They say that it simulates 13 PSI, and the difference between 13 and 7 PSI is a whole nother gear up any hill at the dunes, it makes that much difference. Granted I weigh 250 lbs, so i am trying to get the most performance out of my setup. I am on a 2006 YZ450, 19" rear wheel. I don't race at the dunes, but we do haul some a$$ on the way out to Choke Cherry, 4-5 gear the entire time as hard as the bike will run, one of the funniest things ever on a motorcycle.
  10. Well, just got back from the Dunes and had 2 flat rear tires during the weekend, missed out on two rides because of them. I have been duning for 18 years and have found that you get a lot better performance out of your machine when you run the tires in the 6-8 psi range, the issue is that you increase the chance of getting a pinch flat when you g-out the suspension. I have been running turbo paddles for the last 6 years and really like the stabilizer bars on the tire it helps tremendously to make the rear not step out when sidehilling. So you pinch a tire, get a flat and then ride the bike back to camp. Doing this makes the cords pull away from the carcass on the inside of the tire, these cords will then saw/eat/ruin any tube you try and run in this tire, we have had some luck running another tube, cut along the inside diameter as a liner, but still have some issues. I have never seen this on a dirt tire, must be the huge cups deforming the carcass when it is flat. This gets expensive when you have to buy 2 new paddle tires every time you go to the dunes if you have problems. So my question is, what is everyone else doing? Has anyone tried running a Mousse insert? How do they work? What other paddles are you guys running? Have you run them flat, and do the cords tear off the sidewall of the carcass? They say that it simulates 13 PSI, and the difference between 13 and 7 PSI is a whole nother gear up any hill at the dunes, it makes that much difference. Granted I weigh 250 lbs, so i am trying to get the most performance out of my setup. I am on a 2006 YZ450, 19" rear wheel. I don't race at the dunes, but we do haul some a$$ on the way out to Choke Cherry, 4-5 gear the entire time as hard as the bike will run, one of the funniest things ever on a motorcycle. Thanks,
  11. Okay thanks guys, this is on a 2006 YZ450F as well, just get really nervous after I have had a motor completely torn down. It is quietier know with the new timing chain and properly shimmed valves. Still curious about the heat, probably just in my head.
  12. Just got done rebuilding my 2006 after the stopper level fell apart, it seems to be running a little bit hot, only thing i can think of is that maybe i put the base or head gasket in upside down and they are blocking some of the water jackets?? Is this possible? I was pretty sure the base gasket was uni-direction, but it seemed the head gasket should only go on one way. Thanks,
  13. Well, just got done tearing this motor all the way down. The internals look very good, cylinder and piston are a little beat up, so I'll decide one way or another. My next question is what have people had luck substituting in for yamabond? Can i just use RTV from Autozone? I have to order all of my parts and missed the cutoff for this weekend and would like to get the bottom end put back together. thanks,
  14. Thanks for the comments guys, just what i thought it is worth a little extra to prevent a problem down the road. @123devinzz1 i had the little bearing come apart on the end of the stopper lever that holds the shift drum in gear, and my motor was making some grinding noises, so i figured i might as well split the cases and get to the bottom of the problem rather than grenade the motor and possibly ruin cases/head/cylinder. So if all is well I just be chasing those last 3 ball bearings and inspecting for any other issues. Please comment on my other post if you guys think this is overkill for 3 x 1/32" ball bearings floating around in my motor. Really looking for some advice from Greyracer on this whereas he has tracked this forum for so long and his ultimate wisdom.
  15. It looks like i am going to be tearing into my 2006 YZ450. The question is can i reuse the head and or base gasket? Money is pretty tight right now and i want to get this bike back up and running. Has anyone tried the Tusk top end gasket kit? I can get it for 15 bucks, but I am afraid i will get exactly what i paid for.