roaky81

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About roaky81

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    California
  1. I just did a wr400 idle screw and the book says to record the factory # of turns before removing it and that's what I did. From my years of rebuilding all types of carbs, I will turn in the screw (while counting the turns) till it's LIGHTLY seated and write the #'s down. The wr was around 2 1/4 turns. most old carbs seem to be around 1 1/2 to 2 turns from lightly seated. You can try starting at 2 turns out, start the bike and turn in the screw till the idle starts falling off, then back out 1/2 a turn (I think that's the richer direction). Your complete fuel mixture starts with the idle, then adds in the needle mixture, then the main jet mixture. So you really want the idle to be good. And I hope you're talking about the idle mixture screw and idle rpm stop screw.
  2. This bike has sat for a year or two, then fixed the broken kick starter and case. I did the throttle stop mod, exhaust cam timing mod, removed the airbox lid and baffle. The bike also has an on-road conversion kit. After doing the mods and trying to start it, I took apart the bottom part of the carb and cleaned out the jets w/ carb cleaner (especially the idle circuits). Now I have to turn in the idle stop screw to get it to idle (I think it's pretty close to idle rpm's???) and the header pipe is red when riding it for 2-3 minutes. I rechecked the cam/crankshaft timing and the throttle position sensor, all were good. Is this normal? The article said I didn't need to rejet the carb. I'm in the desert at 3000 ft elevation.
  3. I help a friend do his WR400 mods, throttle stop, exhaust cam timing and removed the baffle. The bike has sat for a year or two before the mods. Cleaned out the carburator. We live in the desert at 3000 ft elevation. 1) we have to really bump up the idle stop position to get it to idle (and it "seems" close to idle rpm) and 2) the header pipe will turn red just riding it up and down the block one time. The airbox cover is removed and it has an on-road conversion kit installed. We rechecked the cam positions with TDC and they both looked good, we check the throttle position sensor and it was good. The article for the cam mod said that stock jetting was fine for these mods, but with the header pipe turning red, I'm concerned somethings not right.