rockmaster

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About rockmaster

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    Texas
  1. #48 pilot is too rich after desmog. Replace with a #42 and exhaust will clean up. Better option is to get the JD kit and it takes care of everything.
  2. wvdualsport is spot on. Couple of additional points - 1.) with an uncorked stock muffler you may want to try and and drill out the spark arrestor screen (if required at your riding areas) holes to 1/16" or 3/32" (latter requires good eyes and a good jig) from stock. Takes a little time with a good jig and drill press, but it gave me a further increase in performence and it didn't seem to bother our local forest ranger. 2.) Make sure the crankcase and gear box vent tubes (post canisterectomy) can't injest fine dirt. I don't like venting into the air filter housing (potential for oil back to the carb). I make small filters that mount on the end of each tube covered by hydrophobic screen material to reject water. I mostly ride dual sport rides, but the newer 450 EXC is an excellent off road scoot that easily handles any terrain I encounter. Its worth the time to do the mods noted.
  3. As you get older and if youre under 5' 11" the kick stand just stays in the rubber loop and you forget it. I've reached the point where I just sit and relax on the bike when I stop, or I do a Lee Marvin (Cat Baleu) and just lean over on a tree sitting on the bike and take a power nap. It only gets used in the shop.
  4. KTM wants to make sure that girly men don't try and ride thier motorcycles. My best friend uses his teeth; pushing the locking tab down with his tongue.
  5. Does anyone have experience with Royal Purple Max Cycle in KTM offroad engines?
  6. Running a cooling fan, RLR coolant catch tank, JD jet kit mods and straight 50:50 Prestone. Also added 90 Deg C temp sensor for fan kit and went to higher pressure than stock radiator cap. No problems with battery since then fan only seems to come on at the end of a long slow speed run for maybe 30 seconds after I shut the engine down. Radiator air flow is not the best running Devol braces. Interestingly, I'm not seeing excessive oil loss. I have the smog stuff still inplace - but did wrap vent tubes and "T" inlet on right side of Carburetor with reflective foil to reduce heat absorption from exhaust. '09 450 exc.
  7. I've been running 13x50 on a '2009 450 EXC for about a year. Trick on chain life is roll on throttle when acellerating versus hammer down. Cuts down on torque effect/strain with small sprocketand to a lesser extent on the rear. KTM hardparts rear sprokect has > 3000 mi with minimal indication of sprocket tooth cupping/wear. I clean the chain after every ride and apply a liberal coating of a hig end synthetic motor lube; o-ring life significantly improved. I ride tight woods most of the time with good elevation changes. Gearing allows you to do roll on wheelies in first four gears.
  8. OK and I weigh 75 lbs more than Dick Burleson. Since were the same age does that make him a better rider than I me?
  9. The bike I looked at the hardest was the XR650R - taking it up to 680cc. It has the oil capacity of the DRZ that I like and it makes scary HP based on one we rode while back in the Mojave between Edwards AFB and LA last spring. However, its still a heavy bike; just slightly more so than the DRZ. It doesn't do well in tight technical terrain with big elevation changes - unless your'e suicidal. And no button. I've pretty much decided on going the KTM 570 route. I've ridden one and it was pretty impressive. I'm still not much of a KTM fan however. I love the relaibility of the DRZ. I'll never get rid of the current one. My ideal bike would be a 500cc DRZ, 47-50 hp with good bottom/mid and weighing in at <260 lbs. Then it would be worth it to upgrade the front and rear suspension. Even better would be to be able to do this on 93 octane pump gas; its a pain to carry a couple of 30 gal drums of VP in the trailer for a weeks worth of riding. If this could be done and kept under $11K (including engine blue print) it would be worth it.
  10. Seen the same thing when looking at the RMZ450 as a next bike for early next year. It probably has >10 HP on top versus my 470. However, I'd tear it up riding it where I normally ride. The 4 speed didn't help much either.
  11. You brought up a good point. The 470 that I'm currently riding has the stock cams, valves and ignition. Only the snorkel has been removed from the air box. Compression was dropped about one point to insure I can get by on premium pump gas on long distance solo rides if I get lost. The engine hasn't been on a dyno, but is probably making 1-3 hp more on top than the stocker. What you really feel is the HP building sooner at lower RPM's versus the stocker. I was looking for two things; 1.) more HP sooner in the lower rpm's and 2.) long term reliability. To get this we also split the cases and essentially blue printed the engine and cylinder mating surfaces (including the liner). The engine is extremely smooth which probably helps its performance. It will rev out almost as good as the stocker and will still hitting the rev limiter. One other change is that when you go out fire roading the big bore will let you know it is sucking more air. Depending on how much road noise I'm getting you can hear a loud wistling noise from under the seat as you chop the throttle to decelerate. I've looked at the 3X3 conversion, but I ride a lot of deep water periodically. If your focus is on top end performance the big bore is probably not the way to go. I would think the stocker or a 440 with appropriate cams, valves and higher compression piston would be more appropriate. I've ridden a friends 470 that is a big bore only with 13:1 piston, hot cams and upgraded valves and it definitely puts out much more HP. He rides the crap out of it. Were waiting to see if it grenades on him. Also, he can only run VP fuel; I believe the high oxygen content 100 octane variant. Lot of options to consider.
  12. Thumper made two of those in addition to the one tested in Dirt Bike. One was in the shop in Marshall when I picked up a 470 in '2004. Another was still being regularly raced by a local rider. Thumper spec'd it at 503 cc. It was a '2000 kicker and had more bottom and mid than the 470 that I got. It wouldn't rev out like the 470, but felt more powerful through the mid. Thumper wasn't interested in selling it. Two of the original three are still running as 500's last time I checked.
  13. If the fit is correct it specs out a lot better than the stocker. After a ride we had last weekend it would provide a little cushion if you have to use it alot. It would seem like tying to put together a "AA" sized nicad/nmh pack could be a little on the expensive side. Plus their has to be a reliability issue with all the soldering you're going to have to do manually. I ride often and change out the stock battery once a year. Last weekend I went on a 100 mi ride with a couple of RWD 4-Wheelers. It was a fairly easy ride until we hit an innocuous looking bog in some pine trees. Sunk up to the frame 3 times and had to use the electric starter alot over a short period of time. Battery did fine, which was good since my legs were starting to cramp from all the pulling and pushing in the mush. Conditions bad enough that I would have a tough time getting a good stroke on the kick starter - hard to kick start when the other leg is sinking into the ground. I bet I used the starter 20-30 times before we got out. You would sink in the ground every time you stopped with a stalled engine. I was amazed the battery lasted as long as it did. Area was only about the size of a football field and we didn't notice it until we were square in the middle.
  14. Good riding areas in Texas are getting fewer and fewer. West Texas and Panhandle are still pretty good. Best East Coast riding - SE and Eastern Tennessee. The strip along the Alabama and Tennessee boarder isn't too bad either if you know where to go. There is an old coal mining area north of Oak Ridge that we go up to periodically that is really great. Big elevation changes and all kinds of technical trails.
  15. A tenacious paint like the Krylon may also interact/react with the plastisizers in the tank plastic making it brittle. The stickers, if they are vented with good heat activiated adhesive, are probably the better option. I drain the gas out of the tanks (all clear plastic with stickers so we can see gas level) on our bikes after each ride. I've noticed that since we have been doing this the tank stickers are staying in place and the while plastic on the tanks are showing less discoloration.