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TreeKing

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About TreeKing

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  1. I didn't like doing it, but I've successfully put Honda an OLD (1975) Husky WR250 and Yamaha cases in the oven at 450F for a few hours, and they went on to perform problem free for at least the few years I ran them before selling. I agree, start as conservative as possible, but when all else fails, use the nuclear option. FWIW, when I was 16 or so, I would make cavalier remarks to the "Adults", one of which I was chastised for with the Husky: "Yeah, as soon as I get the parts, I'm gonna *Slap it Together*". Of course I was "AR" even at that age (credit Dad), so I didn't mean it literally, but looking back, it's easy to see how adults view such comments, particularly given the fact that many adults who think they are expert mechanics are actually Hacks themselves...Just remember; "In the Land of the Blind, the One-Eyed Man is King".
  2. +1 on the "Don't cook the Flywheel/Stator", The oven is reserved for stubborn/corroded aluminum and steel-you want to get the seals off before you try that as well. That's my bad, I thought from your photo that you had it stripped to the cases and barrel and hard parts within. You *can* go after cases with a propane torch or ever an OxyAcetylene, But you should have some prior experience since things happen REAL Fast. Remember, Aluminum melts at just over 700F, and loses its ability to rebound from overheat at around 550F or so-in other words it stays soft from fractional alloying element loss and some degree of heat treatment degradation (yes, allowing die cast aluminum to cool at a slower rate in the die results in a greater hardness/toughness than that of the raw alloy used to fill the mold). Another trick for "knowing" when aluminum is "Hot" (bare Al that is), is to use an acetylene flame-with No oxygen- just use the dirty flame to coat the surface with soot, and then as you heat it with a proper flame the soot will vanish in an instant at ~100F below the melting point of most aluminum. Now everyone has their favorite penetrating oil, like PB Blaster, (FORGET WD40), But I prefer Aerokroil . Link so you can read reviews if you like: https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Penetrating-gallon-loosen-frozen/dp/B007N6FLKI?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007N6FLKI This stuff REALLY works-and while you won't want to drop a C-note for gallon (or not), the 8 Oz. can will probably be enough to do the job if you find a tough (read heavy duty) plastic bag, put the motor in it dump in the oil as strategically as possible-dilute with type F trans fluid or Kerosene if needed to add volume, then use a shop vac to suck the air out of the bag so that the oil has to cover the entire offending lump of frozen metal. Now the hard part...You have to wait. Maybe 3 days, maybe a week or 2, but this stuff is known as the "Oil that Creeps", and was (from what I've read) developed for the aviation world (hence the "aero" in aerokroil). You can also apply it directly-like lay the thing on its side and fill the flywheel puller cavity and then start judiciously whacking it with a soft mallet-or if you have the luxury, use an air chisel with a shank modified to fit inside an appropriately sized slug of brass with a center hole for the shank(yeah, air tools and a lathe can make a lot of jobs easier), But back to reality...As for any penetrant, Of course it won't melt any adhesive sins the previous custodians may have applied in desperate or misinformed zeal (if they did), But that's where the heat comes in. Just a few notes on heat; too much/poorly applied can result in compromised integrity or warpage (Not good for matched case halves). Also you can buy pencil-like heat testers called Tempilstick -Tempil Markers Are Available Ranges From 125 Deg F to 1800 Deg F.- (so you don't overheat), it goes for about $10USD/stick (that is until trumplstitskin imposes more tariffs on Canada for being a threat to national security...*eye-roll*), But seeing you post that you're 15 is awesome! You definitely have what it takes to succeed, and don't sweat the occasional fail along the way, we've all been there-just part of learning, So "Good on ya"! Oh, one other thing that (randomly) came to mind, when you get it all apart, it's not uncommon for the new main bearings to be a loose fit in the cases. The easiest simple lasting fix I've found for this is to coat the case bore/outside of the bearing with Loctite Red (271 If I recall). I applaud your ambition and willingness to seek info from folks that have that know-how, and this forum is one of the best(if not the absolute best). Best of luck Miles, regards, Mike
  3. Yeah, The Nuclear industry pays "WAY MUCH" for everything from bolts to anti-seize- Everything has to be subjected to QA, QC, and expensive chemical analysis-not just by the batch, but every single container, just to be sure there is no undesired compound or element, like chlorides(especially) and any number of otherwise harmless elements are present. Like Nickel for example-which when subjected to neutron radiation in the primary coolant system (core) becomes Cobalt 58 or 60 (Highly radioactive and with a 5.3yr. half-life for Co60), and of course Chlorine/ides, which cause IGSCC (Inter-Granular Stress Corrosion Cracking) in 308, 316, and even 321 Stainless Steel commonly used in all high pressure reactor systems. Sorry for the overly obscure and lengthy explanation. But yeah, Belzona is the bomb.
  4. I hope it works Miles. Most nasty sealants, permatex, epoxy, anything but Nuclear Grade Belzona (like Ceramic R-Metal) will relent with enough even heat. Since I mentioned it, Belzona is the $hit! They use that stuff to repair hardened tool steel pump shafts on BWR/PWR (nuke plant) recirc pumps--I know because I work there, and when the stuff "times out", or loses QC traceability, They give it away rather than paying to dispose as hazmat--and I'm talking some super high tech epoxy that costs $2-3000 a Pint!!! I got some, it sat for a year or so, I used it to build up a badly worn wood chipper drum shaft for a friend (where the bearing runs), then machined it to size with the hardest grade of carbide I could get from MSC (they recommend grinding BTW), and I succeeded, That machine is still running today.
  5. And I heard a story from my long time parts guy about someone submerging a stuck top/bottom end in a deep fryer over a holiday weekend (presumably when the chicken place was closed). Said it worked like magic! If true, I wonder how the drumsticks tasted on Monday(!)
  6. put the whole thing in the oven at 450F
  7. Sad that so many think the 500 is a holy terror. The fact is that-for me anyway-I can go faster in deep sand whoops(rev it a bit and it won't kick sideways at all) and when you bomb into a sandy corner, you must idle the motor to kill the gyro and allow you to throw it down. but then, if the front, back or both plow, slide, etc., All it usually takes is some RPM with the clutch in, and the bike instantly tries to "stand up", and at that instant you release the clutch and ride away from what would have been a low side on a 250. I rode enduros in the Jersey sand and the PA rock runs (District 6) and the only real changes I made to my 5's were revalves-1 set for sand, and another(softer) for the rocks. And later on I picked up a ported cylinder-NOT a crazy make mega power port job- but simply a cylinder that was very nicely port matched and blueprinted. The result of a good trail port job is a motor that runs SO strong and clean off the bottom that you can just about ride all day in 3rd gear if you want.
  8. Maxima chain wax works great on aluminum extension ladder sliders -That is, where the two sections slide on each other. As for chains- I run an O-ring, never lube it, cut it off with a torch or grinder when it's shot-quicker and easier than messing with a worn master link. They last at least a year on a 500 down here in the Jersey sand and swamp muck.
  9. I've got 5 and a half late model (1996+) cr 500's plus a ton of parts. best bikes I've ever owned. looks like you have a gem in the rough! Long live the cr5!
  10. +1 on the Epoxy. You can fabricate a "form" which will render the finished product close to original-that is, little finishing needed. A fine method for lining molds/ forms for epoxy application is ( as I've done on rotted '60's vintage Ford vent wing rubber seals among others) is to carefully line the form with waxpaper-you can stick it on with a glue gun-one of the few adhesives that stick to Waxpaper . I've also heard of using aluminum foil with a light coating of "Boot wax"-like SnoSeal mainly (Sp. may be wrong-sorry). just scuff/use a scribe to create lines or crosshatch on the surface to promote adhesion. You can also use saran wrap backed with cardboard and just leave the saran wrap remnants in place. And on a totally different subject, I remember early water cooled bikes-Honda and Husky come to mind, The area behind the impeller would ALWAY rot, No matter the coolant, and buying a replacement cover would just end up the same after a year or less, So, after a quick sand/bead blast-or even a wire wheeling with a Dremel, An artfully applied coating of PC11* (the marine flavor), or Belzona, etc. (any High quality epoxy) The part is then fixed permanently and better than new. Worst case is that you apply too much, creating an interference, and so you have to dress it up a bit with the die grinder. I remember guys doing it as a preventative measure on new or near new bikes-Coolant in the primary/gearbox 60 miles into a 120 mile Enduro could destroy pretty much all the moving bits inside the motor...Apologies for the Mental Diarrhea digression...And good luck with the seat-should be pretty easy-just buy good epoxy and prep it right. *PC11 is just a personal fave-JB weld works as well.
  11. Is that the Stainless? Don't price Titanium! I think they just want you to buy the assembly. I know that with the car calipers you can buy the "extended service kit" With the calipers, and you get a complete set of pistons and seals and several sets of frictions for about half as much as the hardware itself. I'm thinking with a race application they figure one caliper rebuild is enough-then buy new and improved- again...
  12. I Don't know why Brembo cost so much, But I put C6 Corvette calipers on my Pontiac, and they were only $150 a pair. AND-They are Made in Australia! I'm not making that part up either.
  13. It's a condition called "Clamshell", and it's common on production cars when subjected to road racing-or rental cars in my experience(!). With stock brakes You can easily make enough heat to boil the fluid, and that's enough to soften the aluminum to the point it "Clamshells"...which is why insulators matter and why they make real expensive aftermarket calipers Too.
  14. supercross

    Thank You! Did I mention "Mental Diarrhea"? voice recog. only makes it worse! And be careful what you ask for!
  15. supercross

    I'm sorry, I guess I'm just *Old* (56), but I remember when there was No such thing as "Supercross"-The L.A. Coliseum and the "Peristyle" Jump were exciting, legendary and a game-changer. Everything in a stadium since then is about as gimmicky as "Freestyle" MX . Sadly it's more about profit than the purity of the sport, born in the natural terrain of outdoor events, but I can't get excited about a generic folded-up fake track with stupidly short straights and stunt show "jumps" that have the motorcycle in the air almost as much as on the ground...I'm not saying the guys riding aren't exceptional, just that I don't get exited watching StadiumCross. When I first began riding Roger DeCoster was the master of smooth, no drama millimeter perfect riding on the early Suzuki Rm370 or whatever they ran in the 500cc Class Heikki Mikkola was equally fast, but rode full sideways at every corner, and if he appeared to lack finesse, He made up for it with brute strength and physical endurance...I could list a hundred other names of riders that did amazing things on primitive (by today's standards) equipment, but I guess this post is an attempt to expose a few receptive younger riders to a historically formative era. But I'll probably just come across as a grumpy old dinosaur-which is OK too-we had a cold front come through today, so Flame Away if I come off as offensive, snobbish, whatever, the heat will be welcomed! Unadilla was a half day away back then and an annual "Must attend" event; Back then Bob Hanna was "Super Human"- I remember He refused to ride a poor handling works Yamaha 250 in Florida (Daytona If I remember right), and instead put Rock Stiff springs on a dead stock yz250d (or e I think), and Then proceeded to win BOTH 45 minute Motos! I saw Danny "Magoo" Chandler(R.I.P.) Devastate everyone at Unadilla on a Stone age Maico 490 (Anyone remember when Fox Air Shocks were the Cat's 'meow'?) -He was so far ahead every lap that he would STOP at the top of the steep uphill before the front straight, Then WAIT(!)... and Then proceed to look back while holding the front brake and blasting a deluge of rocks and dirt down the entire 3oo or so yards of uphill as the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc., riders attempted to avoid the Meteor Shower! (Reportedly Maico management was NOT at all Pleased! But the Crowd sure was!). There is a video with DeCoster and Lackey commenting that Magoo showed up at the gate in Carlsbad(I think) with NO Chest Protector! They thought he just forgot, but he said, "I don't need it, I'll get the hole-shot"(He did). The next year Chandler was riding for Honda. There's actually a youtube vid of him winning in 1982 on a Honda at Carlsbad. It was the ABC Precursor to SuperMoto- the short-lived "SuperBikers" TV creation that had AMA sanctioning and so you had 500cc MX/Supermoto bikes racing head to head with Harleys...smh. And Unadilla was WAY COOL, But it had some unwritten, rules, *Like* You Never drove there in a "Nice" (i.e. new/exotic car or truck)-AND You Never parked in a "Low spot"-Especially in a "Nice" ride. One plus was lots of Pretty girls, who usually responded with a smile and more;) like typically when Asked to "Show us your T***s!. Try *That* Today! Spectators on the back part of the track could see most of the course (binoculars helped), and the layout separated the "inside" and "outside" spectator areas in such a way that you had to walk a long way to get to the "OTHER" side. Which incidentally inspired customary 'Between moto' activities which were largely harmless. A perennial classic was the opposing crowds chanting: "The Other Sucks!" (I know-Lame by today's standards, but nobody got shot either). Another "fun" activity-besides "girl watching" and fireworks, was launching water balloons from a 3 person "Human framed" slingshot made from a Large funnel (to hold the balloon), And a pair of several foot long lengths of surgical tubing attached to the funnel and held over the shoulders of the trajectory team. I can only guesstimate, but those Balloons-usually 6 or 8 inches in diameter at times- would fly from the far back hill all the way to the front straight when sent at the optimal trajectory! We got there early enough one year, and had a ~16ft. scaffold assembled and anchored in the back of our pickup, That we got THE highest spot on the back hill! (Spectators paid with some beer or a "lefty" to watch from the Lower (8ft.) level, While The "Penthouse", at 16ft above the truck bed, was ours (With Coolers, Grill and "Borrowed" Beach Umbrellas there were 5 or 6 of us). I remember we were smart enough to fasten some 2x6 vertical planks to the sides in case of Tequila Napping! Then, in between Motos, the Balloon Mortar crew approached us, and "bought" some "Penthouse" footage with inebriates, And with a plan! They proceeded to launch balloons at a very steep upward angle, and if I remember correctly, they got 4 or 5 in the air before the first landed! Needless to say, the "victims" ( they kept most balloons at about 6" or so-presumably for better distance and perhaps less risk of injury from a direct hit) were still at least 500-1000ft. away, and had No clue as to where the launch site was! And then there was the inevitable idiot behavior, like burning the 1920's style outhouse's to the ground after the races were over- and also some moron parking his Brand New Porsche in a Low spot-A spot, BTW, where he couldn't even see any of the track-And THEN he stood guard on his New ride the Entire weekend!, Spewing threats and profanity at anyone-(most of whom were inebriated)-Who *Dared* to walk(stumble?) within 5 feet or so of his "Precious"! (Mind you, most surrounding vehicles were well used trucks, and if you stood on the bedsides or higher-and many were lifted-you could get a clear view of the track). Well this clown was about 100ft. down from us, and when we saw a crowd gather and nearby vehicles "move" a safe distance away, We knew what was next. That sort of thing gradually took the fun out of the Non-Race part of the weekend, but in case you hadn't guessed, that "New" car went up in smoke. Anyway, natural terrain always seemed to be a better test of rider talent and endurance -when was the last time you saw a 45min moto, +2laps? Not in a stadium as far as I know. Nothing like seeing factory 500's wide open for 15 or 20 seconds in top gear fighting for best of 3 or 4 "Natural" berms on the next corner! As good as Unadilla has been One event is still WAY more memorable, Somehow, by pure happenstance, our family took a month long vacation in Europe in 1982, and Magically(!)- we (my Brother and I) saw a poster in store window in Ettelbruck Luxemburg the weekend of the World MX GP Championship! We had no clue beforehand-it was pure coincidental dumb luck! Heading out of town to the "Track" (A crudely bulldozed path through some steep hills and and some ribbon-ed off fields) We encountered 2 or 3 conscripts walking in the opposite direction of a massive crowd, Trying to stop as many/all? pedestrians in order to extract some random amount of currency-and after apparently running out of "tickets"! Ha! (we walked in circles a few times until they focused on many others passing through unimpeded!). Event Crowd control was non-existent, and as the vid mentions, a D-bag spectator whacked Graham Noyce on the throttle hand with a ~2inch diameter stick. I actually saw it. They were throwing rocks and bottles as well. Crowd control was on par with Pro Rally Group B of the era, I.e., stand on the track until the last second, then scurry to the side to avoid being the "Bug" on the windshield. Also not mentioned in the vid, but consistent with Brad's confidence was that in the 2nd Moto Brad had a different set of leathers that said "Good As Gold" across the A$$! The vid isn't the best quality, but the story is bang on. Great Memory!