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TreeKing

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About TreeKing

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  1. TreeKing

    Racing the big pig again

    I bought a used 1998 600 in 1999, and I went through it. race Tech re-valve on forks and shock (by me) as well as installing a 660 kit (9:1-NOT 11.5:1) and rode it in Baja and elsewhere, and while it may not be the racehorse my CR500's were at the time, it was no slouch and certainly better suited to dual sport/long distance trail rides. Most memorable was a dual sport 250 mile ride in the Bradshaw mountains of Arizona (Prescott 250) where a guy on a 400 Husky (Cagiva built at the time) thought his new riding gear and shiny motorcycle (with similar riding buddies) was far superior to "some guys" on dirty, presumptuously clapped out Honda's. Well, I'm here to say my suspension setup allowed me to pass him on an eroded side hill, where his bike kicked sideways and mine tracked straight. He tried to give chase, but (As I would learn later) he was chasing me in a dry wash, and I made a hard left from top gear to avoid an "Island", and he went straight! End result was that he "Beached" his Brand new Shiny Husky in a 15 foot tall Palo Verde tree/plant! When my buddies rode up on him, his friends were trying to help him extricate the bike. At the end of the section my friends rode up laughing, certain that I had "Crashed" him into the tree/bush! When I told them I had no clue, and that he was behind me, and likely following--They laughed even Harder!
  2. TreeKing

    02-07 Cr250s Going up

    Ocean County. We used to have 30K acres of good trail.
  3. TreeKing

    02-07 Cr250s Going up

    I have 2 2003 CR250's. One has about 10 hrs. on it (not exaggerating), both are victims of disuse. After years of (Physical )rehab, I've decided to dispose of most of my bikes--maybe all(!)...I just got old. I originally intended to use the chassis for 2 CR500 conversions (out of 4) that I have...But, things happen...I just kept riding the Steelies until Iran out of Enduro buddies and fitness. But, whatever the case, they are in NJ, and this State has gone full Nazi on anyone that Isn't "By the book" on Reg. and Ins. ...And that definition varies from Cop to Forrest Ranger to who knows who...Anyway, they don't command a high price here, But if someone were interested, I'd be ready to sell for Way less than 6 or 7k!!! Yikes!!! :;)
  4. TreeKing

    What caused this?

    I was thinking CR500 too, I've got a motor in the basement that looks just like that!...only it's a Honda.
  5. TreeKing

    CSAR FE's KX500 Build Project

    you can't go wrong with a 500. Good score BTW.
  6. TreeKing

    Welding YZ250 cases

    Also, RESPECT to a man who takes pride in his work! (that be you Alex Braaaaaap).
  7. TreeKing

    Welding YZ250 cases

    That and a respirator or HEPA Vac on the tool grinder...P.S. I totally *Like* the "Aragon" ref--even if you meant to type Argon! ...btw, Aragon MotoGP isn't far off...
  8. TreeKing

    Welding YZ250 cases

    I usually defer to the GMAW (TIG) myself (I have an "Antique"-Lincoln Idealarc 300 with air gap high freq and no squarewave or offset, etc. but I can also stick weld crude items with 1/4" "baseball bats" with power to spare). But I digress, I had mentioned Belzona products in a prior post, specifically "Ceramic R-metal", an "epoxy" or more correctly just a 2 element catalyzed product (Don't mix it too "hot", i.e. too much catalyst), But they make MANY products, for any metal you'll encounter and all I've used are as strong or--most likely--stronger than the parent metal. This stuff ISN'T "JB Weld!". I've gotten my products for free because once they open a QA/QC container(where I work), it can only be used that one time, So I usually get the 95% that's left after a repair--they give it away because otherwise they would have to pay hazardous waste fees to dispose of it(!). Utilities use R-metal to repair worn valve stem and bearing/seal surfaces on high pressure steam MSIV's (Main Steam Isolation Valves), and Primary Recirc pump shafts on Nuclear reactors! (Think ~500 degrees F and anywhere from 1200 to almost 3000PSI Water or Steam) If the NRC and all the other material certification organizations OK it as Safe for critical applications, I'm sure it will work on anything you encounter on a motorcycle. For example, Ceramic R-metal gets SO hard (while still remaining able to withstand repeated heat cycling expansion/contraction) that it has to be cut with a specialty carbide insert on the lathe, and even then the maintenance guys prefer to just use a tool post grinder instead--And they *Go Off* when the mechanics apply too thick a repair layer because of all the time it takes to finish! I hope this helps someone who might otherwise think their project is FUBAR. To 'Alex braaaaaap', Nice work! As to "What to charge", I cut friends a break (read "Free", or maybe a "beer"), but when it comes to 'Strangers With an Attitude'-- well, age has taught me to Not waste time arguing--give 'Em a rate that will send them packing or make you Rich for a day! BTW, Do you prefer "So called" pure tungsten, or do you use Zirconiated, Lanthanated, or some rare earth electrode for aluminum?
  9. TreeKing

    2017 beta 300 rr head bolt

    BUT! If you do buy a "tamper proof" torx set, DON"T ever use them on regular torx bolts-the pin keeps the bit from collapsing. I saw a "Real" mechanic use one on a mass air sensor-(how tight can that tiny bolt be, he thought)...End result-twists right off...just my 0.02
  10. TreeKing

    Calluses hurting when riding

    Make sure you have your suspension set up correctly (i. e. as "soft" or compliant as the terrain allows), and use tape (like a boxer) or moleskin until the problem resolves. BTW, Andrea Dovizioso, Factory Ducati MotoGP rider tapes before every practice and race. AND, he's faster than 30 million dollar teammate Lorenzo!
  11. TreeKing

    Tire Change DIY or Not?

    WAY Many years ago (early 1960's), My Father owned a Motorcycle shop in Lebanon PA that sold Triumphs, Norton, BSA, BMW, Ducati, and in '66 He picked up Suzuki (remember the X6 Hustler?). ANYWAY, He prepped a few Triumphs that were raced by the legendary Eddie Fisher in the early '60s. Dad used to go to the distributor in Baltimore, Unwrap countless rims (to find the "roundest, "flattest" examples) Lace them himself, and then static balance them with lead solder wrapped around the base of the spoke(s), and then affixed with a bit of rubberized adhesive. If his recollection is true, his Tiger Cubs and Bonnevilles were not only a bit faster than the competition, but at higher speeds (~120mph+) other riders often had to back off as their wheel balance, suspension setup, etc. caused scary handling characteristics. Most notable in my early memory was a trip to Daytona for the 200 in '64 or '65 where Fisher won at least 1 class. Bottom line, you can do it yourself, just get some tools and "learn yourself up!).
  12. TreeKing

    1986 KDX Cylinder stuck to bottom end?

    I didn't like doing it, but I've successfully put Honda an OLD (1975) Husky WR250 and Yamaha cases in the oven at 450F for a few hours, and they went on to perform problem free for at least the few years I ran them before selling. I agree, start as conservative as possible, but when all else fails, use the nuclear option. FWIW, when I was 16 or so, I would make cavalier remarks to the "Adults", one of which I was chastised for with the Husky: "Yeah, as soon as I get the parts, I'm gonna *Slap it Together*". Of course I was "AR" even at that age (credit Dad), so I didn't mean it literally, but looking back, it's easy to see how adults view such comments, particularly given the fact that many adults who think they are expert mechanics are actually Hacks themselves...Just remember; "In the Land of the Blind, the One-Eyed Man is King".
  13. TreeKing

    1986 KDX Cylinder stuck to bottom end?

    +1 on the "Don't cook the Flywheel/Stator", The oven is reserved for stubborn/corroded aluminum and steel-you want to get the seals off before you try that as well. That's my bad, I thought from your photo that you had it stripped to the cases and barrel and hard parts within. You *can* go after cases with a propane torch or ever an OxyAcetylene, But you should have some prior experience since things happen REAL Fast. Remember, Aluminum melts at just over 700F, and loses its ability to rebound from overheat at around 550F or so-in other words it stays soft from fractional alloying element loss and some degree of heat treatment degradation (yes, allowing die cast aluminum to cool at a slower rate in the die results in a greater hardness/toughness than that of the raw alloy used to fill the mold). Another trick for "knowing" when aluminum is "Hot" (bare Al that is), is to use an acetylene flame-with No oxygen- just use the dirty flame to coat the surface with soot, and then as you heat it with a proper flame the soot will vanish in an instant at ~100F below the melting point of most aluminum. Now everyone has their favorite penetrating oil, like PB Blaster, (FORGET WD40), But I prefer Aerokroil . Link so you can read reviews if you like: https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Penetrating-gallon-loosen-frozen/dp/B007N6FLKI?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007N6FLKI This stuff REALLY works-and while you won't want to drop a C-note for gallon (or not), the 8 Oz. can will probably be enough to do the job if you find a tough (read heavy duty) plastic bag, put the motor in it dump in the oil as strategically as possible-dilute with type F trans fluid or Kerosene if needed to add volume, then use a shop vac to suck the air out of the bag so that the oil has to cover the entire offending lump of frozen metal. Now the hard part...You have to wait. Maybe 3 days, maybe a week or 2, but this stuff is known as the "Oil that Creeps", and was (from what I've read) developed for the aviation world (hence the "aero" in aerokroil). You can also apply it directly-like lay the thing on its side and fill the flywheel puller cavity and then start judiciously whacking it with a soft mallet-or if you have the luxury, use an air chisel with a shank modified to fit inside an appropriately sized slug of brass with a center hole for the shank(yeah, air tools and a lathe can make a lot of jobs easier), But back to reality...As for any penetrant, Of course it won't melt any adhesive sins the previous custodians may have applied in desperate or misinformed zeal (if they did), But that's where the heat comes in. Just a few notes on heat; too much/poorly applied can result in compromised integrity or warpage (Not good for matched case halves). Also you can buy pencil-like heat testers called Tempilstick -Tempil Markers Are Available Ranges From 125 Deg F to 1800 Deg F.- (so you don't overheat), it goes for about $10USD/stick (that is until trumplstitskin imposes more tariffs on Canada for being a threat to national security...*eye-roll*), But seeing you post that you're 15 is awesome! You definitely have what it takes to succeed, and don't sweat the occasional fail along the way, we've all been there-just part of learning, So "Good on ya"! Oh, one other thing that (randomly) came to mind, when you get it all apart, it's not uncommon for the new main bearings to be a loose fit in the cases. The easiest simple lasting fix I've found for this is to coat the case bore/outside of the bearing with Loctite Red (271 If I recall). I applaud your ambition and willingness to seek info from folks that have that know-how, and this forum is one of the best(if not the absolute best). Best of luck Miles, regards, Mike
  14. TreeKing

    1986 KDX Cylinder stuck to bottom end?

    Yeah, The Nuclear industry pays "WAY MUCH" for everything from bolts to anti-seize- Everything has to be subjected to QA, QC, and expensive chemical analysis-not just by the batch, but every single container, just to be sure there is no undesired compound or element, like chlorides(especially) and any number of otherwise harmless elements are present. Like Nickel for example-which when subjected to neutron radiation in the primary coolant system (core) becomes Cobalt 58 or 60 (Highly radioactive and with a 5.3yr. half-life for Co60), and of course Chlorine/ides, which cause IGSCC (Inter-Granular Stress Corrosion Cracking) in 308, 316, and even 321 Stainless Steel commonly used in all high pressure reactor systems. Sorry for the overly obscure and lengthy explanation. But yeah, Belzona is the bomb.
  15. TreeKing

    1986 KDX Cylinder stuck to bottom end?

    I hope it works Miles. Most nasty sealants, permatex, epoxy, anything but Nuclear Grade Belzona (like Ceramic R-Metal) will relent with enough even heat. Since I mentioned it, Belzona is the $hit! They use that stuff to repair hardened tool steel pump shafts on BWR/PWR (nuke plant) recirc pumps--I know because I work there, and when the stuff "times out", or loses QC traceability, They give it away rather than paying to dispose as hazmat--and I'm talking some super high tech epoxy that costs $2-3000 a Pint!!! I got some, it sat for a year or so, I used it to build up a badly worn wood chipper drum shaft for a friend (where the bearing runs), then machined it to size with the hardest grade of carbide I could get from MSC (they recommend grinding BTW), and I succeeded, That machine is still running today.
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