projectcxr

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About projectcxr

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  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    my kids & dogs, riding bikes as fast as we can over large obstacles (bmx & Trail) home renos' woodwo

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  1. Usually if you are sucking air there will be a real problem at idle, hunting up and down and hanging revs on no to little throttle. I'm chasing an electrical gremlin at the moment that is pretty well the same, started with a high rev issue, then after a few hours started backfiring and refusing t rev, pretty well narrowed it down to CDI issue. However coil and Stators will also cause similar problems. check your ignition and eliminate it first, as it is most likely to be the issue as everything heats up.
  2. You get out of everything what you put in. A 2T engine is exactly that, and unless you are pretty handy with a die grinder and are steady and well versed with 2T engines, don't buy an off the shelf big-bore kit. Get Dave at TSP to build you what you want. However if you want the satisfaction of building a brilliant versatile and very flexible all terrain engine buy the ESR 325 raw parts and go from there.
  3. I've been running 05 WR450 top three gears with a recluse ZSP since 2013, not an issue. Micro polished the gear faces, background the dogs, polished the fork tracks and paid a lot of attention to meshing and smooth operation before I commissioned it all. I fixed the unwanted float with a shim and a little machiniing, but this is right up my alley as a machinist.
  4. A half decent machinist can d this in 20 minutes, I did exactly this a few years back, '09 450 forks in later 22.5 offset clamps. If any machinists shop can't do this basic thing I'd have to wonder about anything they could do... Cost me $80 Aud
  5. This Bloke above speaks the truth in so many simple ways I build my own motors all of them from 2cc to over 12 litres, have been since I was ten, I am fully qualified and worked in different two trades (In australia you are apprenticed to a tradesperson and formally trained at colleges in trades) one is machinist, other is plant mechanic so I sorta know the basics maybe about metal clearances, heat tolerances, infernal combustion and so forth. If a bloke doesn't have a well thumbed copy of something by Gordon J in their workshop or has read it and committed it to memory, they are not doing themselves any favours either/ I run every single two stroke we own at 30;1, my sons YZ125 at 300 hours has a crank still in spec, have done for over 40 years. last year I replaced my YZ250 crank at over 800 hours still in spec. If you understand and visualise oil migration, tack, viscosities and expansion rates, you have a right to disregard the experience of those that do. However if you are all theory, have someone else build your engines and cannot tell someone the reason for commonplace damage you giving poor advice.' Less oil is just that, less... less lubrication, less heat dissipation, less power and lesser service life, to a point, then there becomes a point where the law of diminishing returns kicks in and it is around 20:1 with a good quality oil. run whatever you like, not my problem, but please don't tell people to ignore the basics that more oil=more lubrication, more everything which equates to more protection very basic stuff to those who do it for a living...
  6. If you are on a standard style cylinder I reckon this is more a porting/Powervalve issue that you are asking a carby to fix. The YZ250 engine was designed to have snap, you can only do so much to undo that without touching internals.
  7. Source a new engine or bike and have spares, there is too much mismatching that you did not have a hand in or are planned. I'd get it if you were building a frankenengine/bike using this mismash of bit for a purpose and you knew it would work that is one thing, however you have a cobbled together engine. I personally would call it quits and get a fresh all 2002 setup and that is from a Bloke who build one of the most modified YZ250s documente.
  8. Yes once they have picked up they have got some issues, I think you can buy the rings fora few bucks separate for most pistons still
  9. Chamfer the ports a bit more on the top, I think your rings are picking up slightly as they pass the port and that may be causing the scuffing.
  10. This is my 325 , I think it goes okay seems to do the job easy enough. Oh this is Australia, 35 degrees celcius and 90% humidity in this clip
  11. Sons 2009 YZ125 My 2003 road registered YZ325wr, you name it, it's got it except FI
  12. It doesn't look to sit out any further than the charging/alternator setup on my Australia only '03 YZ250WR that was plated, mine has a 20mm extra width and special gearlever to clear the cover. Obviously it has a ring gear/engagement clutch system of sorts, so if they are capable of this then building a 55watt or better alternator/generator into it would have been a doddle for them
  13. This is my well documented ESR325 WR gearboxed, Reklused YZ with a 38mm long body Lectron, and My 15 yr old Son riding it. and yeah he walked away, bike needs some fixing though.
  14. I agree with Tony, there is some work to do to get this kit to work on a YZ bottom end, I have several mechanical related trades qualifications so I approached it as I would any fresh conversion, same as putting fuellie heads with a 400 crank on a 350 block and high comp pistons, using the same stock inlet manifold, carby and exhaust headers, gee I wonder why it's a pig... how about lets "purpose build a motor" That's what I did, built the entire setup as a 325, not as a converted 250, if you want a converted 250, buy an athena kit and bolt it on and ride. watch this and tell me it doesn't work better than a YZ250 setup as an allrounder...
  15. I have mine fairly sorted, made some errors, have tried different things and am happy where it is at. First thing, this is not an overbored YZ250 barrel, so don't treat it as one, it is a different layout so start fresh. First get the head squish right, if you do this you will not have as many hassles tuning. Second carburetion, these are very progressive porting layouts, almost "dronelike" in the woods setup, a good needle is mostly your friend (I run a lectron long body, and it is pretty well spot on everywhere now) Third timing, play with it, go on do it, makes quite a difference to power delivery Fourth, the pressure sensitive setup is not as predictable as the linkage/gyro style, but let it move by adjusting the pre-load and maybe if you want it opened real quick a bigger bleed jet Then silencer, try a slightly longer one Plug heat range is well worth playing with too, I am currently one value lower than I was with a 250cc barrel. Only thing I am waiting on is a decent pipe, I have considered getting a CR500 one and cutting it up to fit.... Mine has two stages of power delivery, from idle to 7k rpm just constant torque and steam train power, then from 7k on a nitrous like hit for the last 2k rpm, quite unnerving if you are not in the right zone... simple characteristics of a oversquare engine really, remember it is in the end only a YZ250 cases with a large bore and dissimilar ported barrel bolted on.