MikeZ

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About MikeZ

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    Oregon
  1. Thanks for the note. I see both of you all are in Oregon. I ride out of Clackamas or Sisters. Please drop me a PM so we can hook up. Not sure about spring weight. It's the factory spring. I roll pretty light, the previous owner was "husky". I haven't received the preload tool from the Amazon yet, so I don't know. But normally a factory spring works for a 170lb rider. I was getting about 1" of sag with his preload, and the collar was adjusted pretty far down. We'll see on the forks when I get the thing back off the work stand. Protection? It came with an aluminum skid plate which is fine. Moose rad guards. Also some nice Cycra handguards, which is my brand anyway. So that's all good. Good words on the engine. Pleased to hear that. Keep me posted on rides or fun. I am down for trails, enduros, or dirty dual-sport rides...
  2. So I thought dual-sporting was my thing. Turns out that it is, but not on a big bike. After trying to ride my old KLR650 like a motocrosser, and scaring myself silly, I realized that a smaller option was in order. Went looking for something VERY dirty, and light. Thought long and hard about the WR250R, but just not enough boom there. But the reliability was VERY appealing. So deciding to risk it and buy a used Euro bike. Found a nice, adult owned, low-mileage unit. Thing had about 1,000 miles and 80 hours on it. Had a stack of service records and was smog-deleted and jetted. It's not pristine, and was dropped a few times, but no big deal. My biggest worry was the motor, and oil migration. Quick inspection showed everything full, and the oil fresh-ish. So that was good. I now have it home and fully apart. Finding all it's sins of the past. Tossed in fresh oil in both cases. Fresh air filter. Battery holds a good charge. No valve noise. Still need to replace the plug. Chain is in great shape. Needs a new rear tire, which was chunking. I ordered up a Pirelli Scorpion Pro for about $80 to my door. Good reviews, but if I hate it, the good news is it won't last long anyway. PO told me the front tire is the factory one. It looks brand new, but after 9 years, it needs to go as well. This thing is mostly for offroad and just jumping on pavement to connect dirt. The left bar side turn signal, hi/low, horn lump thingy needed to go. I just wired the Hi's on all the time. Front signals went away. They were in the way of my handguard / lever position. Rear signals stayed for decoration. The right side kill switch / start button is pretty large too. So I am check out options there. The rear shock is confounding any tool I have to adjust preload, so I have the KTM tool coming next week. After I get everything back together, I'll drain and refill the fork oil as well. While it's up, I need to lube the rear linkage, just to be sure. Factory bars seem decent, and I see no need to mess with those. Oury grips got glued on today. Working on this bike is crazy. Much different than Japanese iron. I love all the torx, and headhead bolts. And I love the quality of all the pieces. Very much a higher level of engineering than all but the highest level Japanese bikes. I am being VERY careful with all the little bolts, so as not to strip anything. The kickstand is weird. Seems to not snap overcenter to down position. And something doesn't quite seem right. The center bolt turn with the movement of the stand. I need to check out a known good one to see how it is supposed to work. Radiator hoses are all factory, so may replace those. Seems smart. And all brake and clutch fluid is getting drained, as soon as some DOT IV arrives. Spokes are tight wheels are true. That's about it. No real red flags so far. Bike shows every sign of being a strong runner. Let me know anything else I should be thinking about as this all goes back together. Oh yeah, grab handle. All the nice ones seem to be for the '11+ bikes. I was checking out the Tugger straps. Do we like those? Previous Owner did a gear change. Not sure if it was enough though as I really want this thing to chug without dieing. Let me know any gearing thoughts for woods. Oh... fuel tank. 2.5g, just ain't gonna cut it. I was thinking Clarke as they are local and cool folks. Anyone have experience here? Good resource here. Glad to be back, but dressed in orange now.
  3. Nothing to add. Thanks for your service. Stay frosty.
  4. The OEM book shows as different. Thanks much though...
  5. Clean your garage out and be a great person all at the same time. Thanks!
  6. Crf250r. 2006. Please share your experience here. 1. Chain DID VX2 chain vs. the VT2 chain. The VT2 chain is billed as the narrow endure chain, but the pin length and side plate thickness appear to be identical to the VX2, which is a bit less money. Ay experience with clearance on either of these chains? 2. Gearing Mostly a trail bike. A 12t sprocket gives the right gearing and is easy to swap for mx work. Any clearance or other weirdness with a 12t Thanks in advance.
  7. My first time over on the SuperMoto side, so go easy. I've got an XR650R that I want to make into more of a street bike than a dirt bike. The deal is that I do NOT have a ton of money to throw at this deal. So it needs to be major bang for the buck. The goal is to have a superior urban assault ride that can hit the twisties (reasonably) hard. I have TKCs on the bike now. It sticks OK, but get squirmy in the back and the front is very vague. I thought of a simple tire switch to street rubber on the 21 / 18" rims, but was wondering if going to an 18" up front would make a big difference. I have another complete front wheel laying around that I could lace into 18" (or 19") configuration. So the questions are: - What size tire in back to go on the stock 18 x 2.15" rim? - Stick with the 21" in front or go to an 18" or 19"? - If I go with a smaller front rim, stick with 2.15" wide to go with the back? - What size tire in front if I downsize? - Will I be OK with current suspension components or do I need to compensate for dropping the front with the smaller rim? Thanks in advance for the help. -Z
  8. I dug this up to add a bit more info for the next guy who is searching on the subject. My 250R is setup as dual-sport. I just changed to sprockets to 14-45. The gearing is great. Plenty of low with the ability to run (almost) freeway speeds. I am rejetted with an FMF exhaust and snorkel removed from airbox. The 14t in front required me to grind the case guard a bit. I am not sure a 15t would fit. The stock chain length (106 links) works fine with the 14-45 although a 104 link chain looks like it could work also. -Z
  9. This bike is one of the most durable things going next to a cast iron skillet. The number one thing that I would look for is an owner who maintained the bike. Changed the oil, adjusted the valves, lubed the pivot points, etc... Everything else is standard consumables. Looking over the swingarm rub plate, inspecting the chain for missing o-rings, looking for sprocket wear, frame rub, etc... will give you an idea of how many miles the bike was ridden, but won't tell you about how long it will go. Every bike tells a story, you just have to learn how to listen. Good luck. You'll do great. -Z
  10. I have found it helpful on a cold bike to give the idle screw a turn before kicking. YMMV -Z
  11. My take is that if anyone besides another XRR owner can get the thing started they can just have the thing. That or you can just put a little disc lock on it. -Z
  12. Might as well set fire to your driver's license now and avoid all the intermediate steps... -Z
  13. My XRR goes on the street and has a huge appetite for rear tires. The best I have found are the TKC's, but they will really only go a couple thousand. This is mostly because the XRR just tears the knobs up sliding around corners on the street. Good time, but expensive... -Z
  14. The doc did a very nice job of rejoining the skin. Could have been much worse. -Z