The Spanky

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The Spanky last won the day on February 20

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About The Spanky

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  1. Yeah, wet clutches tend to work better when they're actually wet... Glad you found the problem before anything catastrophic happened.
  2. Clutch side crank seal. What bike? Kawies you have to spilt the cases to replace crank seals. Most other brands the seals go in from the outside.
  3. I run Barnett plates and have used Type F ATF for decades.
  4. No but I like how you assume to mind read, that may be your logic not mine. Its a simple fact that not all dust can be stopped 100% of the time all the time. So the point is you should be more worried about the fine dust making it past your filter over the trace elements of silicon oil making it into the combustion chamber. Good thing is if you do preventative maintenance like changing the oil, replacing the top end at certain intervals then it's nothing to worry about, But if you're still concerned then leave the bike in the garage and dont ride it all that way you don't have to worry about silica getting into the motor. Cheers. What good will changing the tranny oil in my KX250 do? You are the one that said sand is gonna get in your engine anyway so don't worry about silicates from the filter oil. So yes, it's your logic, perhaps you should man up and own what you say? And you didn't address the test of my post? Why not? Anyway, I'm not gonna keep arguing, like I said, there's a lot of unknowns so I won't use it. You can go ahead and have the last word, I've said all I need to say here.
  5. So, your logic is, some dirt is going to get in the engine anyway, so why worry about adding more? And apparently I don't know how to oil a filter properly, so I'm sure it doesn't stop everything. I'll ask it again. If this product is ok to use in our engines, with our fuels and oils, why does the manufacturer not offer it for bikes? Surely they would want to expand their market if they could? As I said, too many unknowns. So I won't use it.
  6. The Alaskan is correct. The clutches in our engines are by default "racing" clutches, and theyall work similarly. If the aftermarket clutch is not performing in a similar fashion to OEM then there is likely a mechanical issue. One of the advantages (and disadvantages) of your bike is that, like a two-stroke, it has dedicated oil for the transmission, so you can fine tune your clutch feel and shifting with different oils to find what suits you. Something like 80W Gearsaver will provide a more "cushiony" feel. Or something like ATF Type F will give the clutch more "grab" where Dexron ATF will allow a slightly softer engagement with a little more slippage.
  7. I have to insert my $.02 on this. Are you asserting that, out of possibly millions of people worldwide that ride dirt bikes, only a few elites (yourself included of course), know how to maintain an air filter properly, and the rest of us are just idiots? The claim that no air filter oil makes it into the engine if the filter is properly oiled is absurd. Even if the filter is perfect there will be trace amounts that are dissolved from the filter by gasoline vapors due to the reversion effects that are present in all intake tracts. The damage from silicone oil being transformed into abrasive silicates inside the engine would be small in the short term but cumulative over time and probably would never be noticeable in an RC engine due to their very short lives. If it's harmless, why are there no silicone air filter oils for motorcycles on the market? I wouldn't use the stuff in my bike just because of the unknowns.
  8. That cop was full of shit, it's called theft by deception.
  9. Well there was a time when cars needed plugs every 10,000-15,000 miles, and Champions were state of the art lol.
  10. They will wear faster in a 10,000 rpm two-stroke that spends a substantial portion of its life at full throttle and screaming. But your point is valid. I generally replace my plug when I replace the piston. Just because I'm anal so a new top-end should also get a new plug...
  11. Sandblasting plugs was a terrible way to clean them. The sand caused microscopic erosion of the surface, allowing deposits to cling to the surface so the plug would foul much more quickly. Walnut shells were better. But no plug cleaner could clean the layer of carbon deposits a few molecules thick that would bleed off some of the voltage to ground, leading to more deposit formation and quicker plug fouling, leading to more cleaning and...well, you can see where this circle jerk goes. But the advent of high energy electric ignitions made plug cleaning obsolete. Now, with the 80,000-100,000 volts modern automotive ignitions can generate, plugs will continue to fire until the electrodes are literally worn away to nothing. Now two-strokes are a different animal. For the most part dirt bike ignitions only generate 20,000-30,000 volts, much less than automotive ignitions, so they are inherently more sensitive to deposits, it takes much smaller amounts to short circuit one to the point where the spark simply flows through the carbon deposits to ground rather than jumping the gap. Combine that with the increased deposit formation of the oil in the fuel, and you begin to understand why proper jetting AND the correct heat range for your conditions are so much more important for burning off the deposits, and why cleaning the plug is only a bandaid.
  12. It won't hurt a thing.
  13. Holy thread revival... It might behoove you to not be condescending though...
  14. Perhaps someone should explain to them that quads are actually more dangerous to ride than bikes.
  15. It doesn't change the math at all, as long as you use imperial ounces and imperial gallons, or American ounces and American gallons. The formula is still the same. Ounces in gallon divided by ratio equals ounces of oil.