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2FlatsandBent

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About 2FlatsandBent

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    Virginia
  • Interests
    skateboarsing, snowboarding, flying ultralights. Oh yea, Ikinda like riding motorcycles.
  1. Another thing that will decrease the life of your bearings greatly is improper installation. If you tap (beat) on the wrong race then that will damage the balls and raceways. For instance if you are installing a wheel bearing and you tap on the inner race to install it then you are basically hammering the balls and raceways against each other, denting them and ruining any 'precision' polishing. The same goes for a bearing being installed on a shaft and you tap on the outer race. You may not notice any problems at first but the small dents start grinding away at the components and wear the bearing prematurely. They may only last half as long as they normally would and the brand and quality won't matter at all. When you see some people praising a certain brand and then see others hating on the same brand then this could be one of the reasons for some of the disparity. This is especially noticeable when fork seal replacement comes up as it is very easy to screw up that particular instillation. So people blame the product when it sometimes is the procedure.
  2. OEM's don't make bearings and neither does Moose. They are most likely the exact same thing, Koyo bearings made in Japan. Even if the bearings from different companies (OEM, Moose, etc.) use the same manufacture (i.e. Koyo) that doesn’t necessarily mean the bearings are the same or of the same quality. Bearings, even though they may be of the same size, have different ratings and can be of different type and material. The rating (ABEC) of a bearing has to do with the amount of polishing and tolerance of the inner and outer diameter, and the width. The type can determine things like whether the bearing is shielded or not or if the shields are floating or sealed and water proof. An example of this is the stock wheel bearings in a Yamaha YZ250FXs are not shielded (no side plates) while many aftermarket replacements have waterproof sealed shields. This is a case where certain aftermarket products may be better than OEM. Other differences are the type, quality and hardness of materials. Also the tolerance of the balls (or needles) and the raceways make a big difference per application. All bearing manufacturers make the same ‘size’ bearings in many different types. So how do you tell which bearing is better? Unfortunately at a glance you most likely can’t. That’s why there is tread after thread of this very debate. There are a couple of good indicators though. First; you get what you pay for – usually. If you’re dealing with a reputable company you can pretty much count on a more expensive bearing (probably) being better (note that there are some applications where the absolute best bearing money can buy is not necessary – actually with motorcycles this is always the case, unless you want to spend $100 a pop on ceramic bearings). Second, as cjjeepercreeper points out, the weight may tell you something. What was that movie – 1 “Is it heavy”, 2 – “yea”, 1 – “Then put it down; it’s expensive”. Essentially you just have to rely on what other people say and, mostly, your own experiences. OEM will get you what you originally had. After that there are certainly worse options; but in some cases there are better options.
  3. +1 on Unibiker. I've had them on a DRZ400, WR450, CRF250X and currently run them on a YZ250FX that I race hare scrambles with. They fit great, are light weight and offer excellent protection. I've never had any problems with any of them an they have saved quite a few radiators.
  4. Mary Ann was awesome.
  5. O-ring mod usually does the trick if everything else is tuned right. I've done it to three bikes - super easy, super cheap. No reason not to try it.
  6. 3M makes a vinyl they call 'Controltac' that is perforated. They have a newer product that is also perforated that is targeted to car wrapping but it isn't as good for motorcycles. It has a different adhesive that sticks less initially (so it's easier to pull up if a mistake is made) and then after adding some pressure it kind of seats and cures. The original Controltac sticks great to gas tanks. I've used it several times with custom graphics. The only problem is that the vinyl is very thin but it is also very pliable so that it contours well.
  7. supercross

    Restrictor plates work for NASCAR. I don't see a real problem with them in SX. It would cost next to nothing for the manufacturers - it's just a plate with a hole in it. I also agree with those that mention track design. However if there was a plate requirement then that would force more appropriate track designs given the bikes ability to handle it (not the riders ability). In turn the plates might potentially even the playing field and we would then have a better way of seeing who the best 'rider' actually is (like in NASCAR). Additionally, engine performance technology would still advance; it would just focus around more complete burn given the allotted amount of air vs. overall volume of mixture.
  8. Well, normally you would be riding on the ball of your foot. When jumping you need to get your foot more centered on the peg so that you don’t hyper extend your ankle on larger landings. The problem becomes remembering to do that. Pro riders do it instinctively. Me: not so much. I’ve cranked my ankles a few times. I don’t have those pegs but I can see the benefit. Also the design is such that it can improve control on downhills.
  9. Well, normally you would be riding on the ball of your foot. When jumping you need to get your foot more centered on the peg so that you don’t hyper extend your ankle on larger landings. The problem becomes remembering to do that. Pro riders do it instinctively. Me: not so much. I’ve cranked my ankles a few times. I don’t have those pegs but I can see the benefit. Also the design is such that it can improve control on downhills.
  10. Detonation and pre-ignition are two different things. I'm not saying there is no such thing as pre-detonation, but I've never heard that term. Apologies for the confusion with saying "resurfacing". It is true that resurfacing the interface doesn't really change the compression ratio. However what I actually meant was the 'reconditioning' of the dinged up head area (the obvious problem). That is deep scaring and if ground out would certainly change the compression ratio. Compression ratio's are changed with different thickness gaskets where the thickness difference is less than what the depth of the damage to that head appears to be. I still say: door stop, Paper Weight, Art Project, Wife Weapon; Good suggestions.
  11. Actually they were appropriate suggestions. As there are a LOT of dings and divots, and therefore many small edges, using it as-is will more than likely promote pre-ignition. Pre-ignition causes a lot of damage in very short order (seconds). It simply isn't worth the risk. If you get it resurfaced it will change the compression ratio so you would want to talk to the machinist/mechanic about the affects and solutions. Then you can decide between the cost of that vs. the cost of a new head. I would think that a new head wouldn't cost much and would be the overall easiest solution.
  12. Ditto. There are some people mentioning patching but it looks like you are simply replacing old tires, not flattened tubes. But since people are mentioning it, I too have run patched tubes for really long times. You just need to learn to do it right - practice and pay close attention to the details/directions. It's smart to have a good patch kit in case you get a flat and don't have a spare tube handy and you want to keep riding. Check around the valve stem of your old tubes. Especially if it was at an angle when you took the tire off. If the tire slips on the rim (which can happen even with rim locks) then that area can be damaged.
  13. Maybe I'm not seeing the photos right but it looks to me like there are NO rings installed. That would explain no compression. Unfortunately it would also mean a jacked up cylinder. I hope I'm wrong and the photo is just tricking me.
  14. I’m gonna tell you the honest simplest way to get rid of arm pump forever. First, what D.j. says is true and in the end that should be your focus; ride more loose. Here is the easy trick: whether riding in the woods or on a track, when you get to easier sections make the “OK” sign with your fingers and ride with the grips fully loose in your hands (holding on with just part of two fingers). You can practice it at first riding in a straight line out in a field if the track doesn’t have an area you feel is easy enough. Once you can do that then start stepping it up to doing it during cornering, then do it with clutch action and braking. You can do it while in the air on a jump (as long as you don’t need to throttle or clutch for corrections). It can be done over small whoops, up hill climbs and over logs. At first this is going to seem like BS. But once you start doing it you will be amazed how little you USUALLY have to grip the bars. Consider how many kids and women ride fast and well. Yes they are obviously in shape but they aren’t ‘body builder forearm ripped’. Knowing this trick also helps when you are in a race or riding hard and you start to feel the pump come on then all you have to do is remember it’s “OK”.
  15. Ditto William1. You can buy a much newer 450 (which is also a way better bike) for $2,000 - 3,000. You can sell your old forks, rims, carb, gas tank, maybe even the frame and get back about a grand. You might be in a situation where it's tough to come up with the cash to get a newer bike AND its kind of a pain to sell all those old parts; you might have to go without a bike for a while. In the end though, you'll be much better off and much happier with a newer bike. Plus consider also that you can probably even find another 426 at the price your about to put into fixing yours - which ever way you decide to go.