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Pugnasty

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About Pugnasty

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    TT Silver Member

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  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    Riding, hunting, fishing
  1. I didn't know you were still trolling around these parts. Nice to see ya still on the face of the planet. SG-10's are pretty nice boots. I have only one complaint, and that is, the pretty shiny silver carbon fiber looking stuff under the buckle on the ankle is wearing off. Otherwise, they are great. Good rigidity in the sole. Comfy insole, excellent sideways ankle support, and the waterproof below the inner tongue is awesome for when you get those soft spots and find yourself having to put a foot down in the water.
  2. I had one close to that, but that is the worst I have ever seen. That'll force you to ride using one or two fingers.
  3. fa11out, No matter what you do I would not worry about getting any performance parts as far as the plates go. I have many a duscussion with mechanics (motorcycle) about those things and everyone of them has told me the same thing. The neccesity for them is just not there unless you are a factory racer and have a mechanic that can change them with the factory budget needed for the frequency. As a result, I have always run the stock or equivalent plates and fibers. They last longer and are cheaper. There's my two cents.
  4. Are you getting any noise from the clutch? What is the resistance at the clutch lever itself like? Does it feel like you are getting a full disengagement of the clutch when you pull it in? When you pull it in, do you get and grinding noise? Checking for a grooved basket is pretty easy. Just pull the clutch cover and look at the basket. Should be pretty evident if that is the case. Pulling the plates and looking is not much more difficult. Your fibers should have a almost sprocket looking type of raised surface on it. If there is a flat surface on the fibers, then change those out. Also look at the steel plates. Check to make sure that there is not a warped plate. Easiest way to do that is stack them on top of each other (the steels) and see if any of the plates don't sit flat. Another way is to lay them on a piece of glass. There should be no gaps from glass to steel surface. When you pull the clutch pack to inspect the plates, take a look at the coloring on the steels. If there is any "blueing" there is a good chance that the steels are warped and the fibers are shot. Not always the case though. Hope that some iof this helps out a bit. Oh yeah, the spring tension can also be a culprit of clutch problems. If they are not within limits on the measurements then that could be what is not letting the clutch push back in.
  5. 13 OZ for sure. I run that size on my CR. I have no complaints. It is a race bike though and even with that weight on there, you will still need to do some work with the clutch to keep it from stalling in the tight stuff. Maybe saving the time and money on some of the expensive items like rims and what not and going with a slipper clutch/ rekluse or something of the likes would be a better idea. Although, that automatically makes you less cool and not as good a rider:lol:
  6. As long as nothing goes wrong with the bottom end on the black one then it woul dappear to be the better of the two. Picture wise, the stocker looks cleaner though.
  7. Wallypix I agree with the first two. I don't know about the last though. I can see how the Mikuni would help the RM but we are talking about a different machine entirely here. Who know's though, maybe he has the money to blow on trying different things like that. Could be a good idea.
  8. The bigger the flywheel the better. I have the thirteen on mine with the gnarly and that tamed it a bit and made it a lot more trail friendly. You will like it once you get the 2t power figured out. And like what was said earlier. The clutch is there, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE IT! Let her rip:thumbsup:
  9. I think that you are looking at a combination of what maico is saying and flooding.
  10. Yep, you are right fellas. I just reread my post and I have it backwards. Guess I read it wrong. That or the five rum and cokes had something to do with that. Guess that's what I get for drunk typing. Sorry for any confusion Willerides.
  11. That appears to be a set of worn springs. Had this happen on my street bike. Just replace the springs first. In my experience, the plates are not far behind.
  12. That is usually all it takes. For whatever reason the thing just gets in there whacked. Usually nothing actually wrong.
  13. I have had this happen to me before on several occasions. While I have never figured out what the culprit was, I just pulled the cap off and removed the slide and reinstalled. For whatever reason, that seems to fix it. I think it has something to do with the spring and needle beeing out of position. Not really sure though. Give it a try though, I bet it works. If not pull the bowl off and then install the slide, then put the bowl back on.
  14. There is a big problem with the theory of peeper or the old "egg in the radiator" deal. That is foreign matter that is not going to stay in place and will spread around the water jacket. I would not do it. But, to each his own. Hallsy, I would just go to the top of the fins. That is where I have always done it and never had a problem with over flow. That is on both my KDX and CR.
  15. Overflow expansion is most likely the culprit. I have seen and would try this. Just grab a water bottle, any will do and zip tie it to the radiator shroud. Run a hose to it and wait and see when you get done. Saves some money that way.