Warpig

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About Warpig

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Australia
  1. I love my airhead BM and will never sell it. But the DR is FUN to ride! The BM is hard work!
  2. +1. I've got x-rays to prove this...
  3. 2 slotted precision screwdrivers: one in each hole in the circlip, twist both outwards at same time slowly (3 hands helpful here). If you twist too fast or the clip is a tight fit it will go flying, so take care.
  4. Hang on a minute... Re-assemble the linkage [without the shock] with the washers in both places and see whether it moves OK. Often if you leave thrust washers out, the bearing outer shell hang up and prevent it from turning. Sorry if this is a BS reply: I can't remember where the washers were when I pulled mine down, but a simple bolted-on bearing [linkage, chain roller etc] usually needs a thrust washer to stop the outer shell contacting a non-rotating surface.
  5. Pirelli Scorpion MT90 A/T on the rear is very close to the Trailwing on dirt and pretty good on the street.
  6. What do you mean by 'blown' seals? Were the oil retaining lips turned outwards, or were the seals knocked out of the fork lowers?
  7. If you've got the time you can almost stop the clunking into first buisiness by holding the clutch in for 20 sec or so before you shift into gear (OK at the lights if your paying attention). The clunk seems to be due to oil drag on the plates; holding the clutch in for longer gives the plates time to stop spinning.
  8. 1986, Cahill expressway, North Sydney. Down the hill 2-up, tucked in behind the 'fairing' of a Vespa PX200E. Ran it WAY off the end of the speedo, which topped out at 120 km/h. We might have got 140, on 10" split steel wheels...
  9. You blokes are seriously patient! I managed 165 km/h on the flat, but gees it takes a while to get there! I was surprised at how stable the bike is at that speed. I have Pirelli Scorpion AT90s and it was solid as a rock.
  10. Ain't that the truth. Changing from motor oil to Silkolene air filter oil made a WAY bigger difference to performance than grinding the header weld!
  11. Yeah, not a bad site. Not real big on the technical details, but his simple tests seem reasonable. Bob has reinforced my conviction to stick with SG rated oil while it's still available. Thanks for posting that!
  12. I don't use loctite and haven't lost a fastener in 250,000 km on several bikes, although I do check the obvious fasteners now and again. Not to say the racing dude above is wrong: if I was racing I'd use it. On my B&B bashplate I put a little sheet of rubber insertion (about 4 mm thick) where anything touched the frame and pulled it up until the rubber compressed about 50%. It loosens up a little bit, but you should probably check this every now and again anyway. Always grease the threads unless told by something reliable (factory manual) not to.
  13. Mine's done the same since new. I reckon at least some of it is from the filter.
  14. The dealer gave me Maxima chain wax which worked well enough, but ran out way too quickly. I've now got Motul off-road chain lube which is top stuff if you don't use too much (if you do it sprays all over the place). Just came back from a ride up Casino way. Top town: seems to be the same as it was years ago, not a rich turd shit hole like Byron and most of the other places up that way.
  15. So that's how you do it! I wish I'd read this last week. Thanks dude!