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About intensem1rider

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  1. The crank nut on the right side of the crank is known to back off and rub against the case. I would highly suggest pulling the right side engine cover off for inspection.
  2. Definitely race the 125! I stepped down 3 years ago from a 250f to a 125 purely for the fun factor and it actually ended up making me faster. On a 125 its not enough power to catch you off guard and put you in danger like a bigger bike will at the end of a moto, and its so light it allows you to push hard for a lot longer. Its hard to beat the feeling of railing corners full throttle, never letting off and flying past bigger bikes
  3. Looking for a code please, Im hoping to place an order tonight.
  4. Yes you can safely go back to a 125 cylinder, just be sure to return the jetting to 125 specs as well.
  5. It was a direct fit from a 08 250f to a 2010 YZ when i did it, same everything.
  6. I dont think you will be able to find that piston. Sounds like in the past someone bored it out to over 135cc. You can get 56mm pistons from wiseco, but they wont fit your cylinder because they will be too small. If you can find a used cylinder on e-bay or something that might be the easier route.
  7. Amsoil uses that 50:1 as a marketing gimmick , you should be running closer to 32:1 in a 125/144.
  8. That would explain why you only have a difference of 54mm. Measure the distance from the axle bolt to a point on the rear fender, then take the bike off the stand and sit on the bike in a riding position while someone measures your sag to the same point on the fender. The difference between those two numbers is your rider sag. Set it to approx 100 to 105mm. To determine if your spring is too stiff or too soft take the measurement you got from when the bike was on the stand, and subtract that from a measurement where the bike is off the stand with no rider on it... If the value is 20mm or less then your spring is too soft, if the measurement is 35mm or more then your spring is too stiff.
  9. I found it pretty simple following the video, it was the first time I ever rebuilt a shock, i actually think it's almost as easy as doing forks. Once you take it apart and realize how simple it is you'll be surprised you waited so long to do it.
  10. Thats a very good possibility! I was pulling the shaft up pretty far... I'll pay attention not to do that next time.
  11. I did my first rear shock rebuild yesterday and had a very hard time bleeding the air out when slowly cycling the piston up and down. I did it for about 30 minutes before deciding my shock was magic and was capable of producing air from no where. Does anyone have tips for future shock rebuilds on bleeding techniques?? FYI, this is the video i followed to rebuild my shock step by step:
  12. To properly set the float height on that carb you need the float height tool specified in the manual. You set the float height based on the level of fuel in the hose of the tool. It's not the same method as a keihin.
  13. Possibly from the crank stuffers?
  14. Enzo Racing Canada
  15. Thanks for your help!!