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DaveGWV

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About DaveGWV

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    West Virginia
  1. DaveGWV

    RMZ seat

    sounds to me like you are looking to make things WAY more difficult than they have to be. If you haven't seen it, DB magazines Jan issue has a pretty good article on doing seats, whether just putting a cover on, or reshaping... If you don't want to search for the article, FX is now offering a new cover, TC-4 that has rear grip ridges. More importantly, they also offer a foam bump with the cover, or seperatly. I know on my factory seat cover there would not have been enough extra material left to reuse it to cover a step seat, so a new cover of some sort will most likely be in order. Hope this helps...
  2. DaveGWV

    She is almost finished

    I picked this one up back in August. I traded in a highly modififed DRZ400, and drove home with this one. It was factory stock when I unloaded it from the hualer, and has since been tweaked a little. I have a small machine shop for another hobby(business), and have replaced about 2/3 the nuts and bolts on the bike with custom pieces cut from either aluminum or titanium based on application. Billet brake line holder, billet folding shift lever (1/4" longer than stock), billet brake clevis, billet rear brake lever, custom shock valves, titanium valve guides, and the list goes on and on. I can't help but cutting new parts for this thing every chance I get. Christmas will bring a host of bolt on goodies to add to the list(I hope!). I'm going with 13/50 using a DID gold, along with stealth rear sprocket for a little bling factor. Having had a BUNCH of bikes in my 47 years, this is by far the best handeling, funnest to ride to date. Happy holidays, and safe riding to all! DaveG
  3. DaveGWV

    SFB racing Chain Guide

    I have one of those. Basically the same as the MSR & Fredette guides. They work fine, although I noticed that the supplied lower rub block sits about 1/4" lower than the factory rubber insert does in the factory guide. I also got quite a bit of chain noise out of it, so machined myself a new lower rub block (taller profile). It's been a peach since then.
  4. DaveGWV

    Rear Wheel Spoke needed

    I posted a few days ago(less than a week) about a single missing spoke off the rear rim of my DRZ. This mornings mail brought a replacement (actually several) from a fellow board member in KS. Just wanted to publically say thanks!
  5. DaveGWV

    Hand guard options for CRZ400S

    Before deciding what brand, decide on what you want them for. There are those that simply act as light duty guards, which do little more then block the wind, and very light brush. They usually mount in one place usually either to the lever pivot point, or a single mount to the bar in front of the lever. The there are those that mount to a bar that wrap around, and into the bar end. Having mounted scores of simple hand guards to my bike over the years, it took a hard lesson to figure out what is good for what. I was doing some fairly light duty single tack on a YZ250 and had my clutch side brush guard graze a tree, which proceeded to allow the clutch lever to smash my pinky. The middle bone in my finger was reduced to little more than dust in the blink of an eye. It was a LONG painful recovery from such a small insignificant mishap on the bike. The only damage to the bike was a zip tie that secured the hand guard to the front of the cluch lever. If I plan on riding off road, I plan on mounting wrap around hand gaurds, no questions asked. ANY brand of wrap around will offer more protection than just a light duty hand guard. I've tried most brands, and would say thay all work about the same. I do however prefer the ones that droop down before mounting to the bar end(such as cycra or acerbis), as opposed to those that are straight(like moose), but have used(and abused) both types. Hope this helps...
  6. DaveGWV

    Rear Wheel Spoke needed

    Checking the spokes is for sure part of my daily routine, now! ;-) and screechingdemon, thanks PM sent!
  7. DaveGWV

    Rear Wheel Spoke needed

    I've been a member of the forum for a little while now, and while I may not post often, rest assured I spend plenty of time reading it! Just to update where I'm at with my DRZ-E, I started by pitching the air box snorkle, followed by the coast enrichener. Mounted an FMF Ti4 w/powerbomb header, and have been through just about every needle and jet combo I have ever read about for the FCR, along with a Zipty fuel screw. I also spent weeks tweaking, adjusting, testing and retweaking my suspension(which is still stock) and now have my bike running exactly the way I want it! I weigh just under 170lbs, and have found some suspension settings that actually have worked out quite well for me. I love this thing! We live out in the country, and I have been fortunate enough to build myself a small practice track around the house. I have a couple of jumps right in the front yard that most passers by think are some sort of planters, or landscaping features, as I have lined each side with river rock (looking like old rock walls). There are a total of 5 jumps, one of which is a natural 8 foot rise in the back yard that I hit usually in 4th about 3/4 throttle (landing zone is a little short before the woods begin, so I have to really think about getting turned as soon as I land), and the track measures just over 1/2 mile in length. As time premits I will be adding about another 1/3 mile loop up on a hillside off the side of the house, but that one will be requiring a bit of dozer work... My problem is... I lost a spoke off the rear wheel. I think it just simply got loose and fell out. I'm usually pretty dilligent about checking them, but went through a period where I must have just forgotten, as I have never really had any problems with them getting loose since break in. I tried a local dealer, and they want me to buy the whole set, which I would rather not do to simply replace one spoke. So, if there is anyone else out there that has a spare or two laying around, I'd be more than happy to work something out with ya! I don't mind buying a few if I have to, just feel like an entire set is a bit of overkill. This is for the "e" with standard 18" rear wheel, and 2.15"rim. ANY help in this regard will be GREATLY appreciated! Regards, DaveG
  8. DaveGWV

    DRZ Suspension

    I've spent a BUNCH of time tinkering with my set up. Everything is stock as far as springs and oil, valving, etc. I weigh right in at 185 geared up. In the rear I had a heck of a time getting the feel I was looking for, while eliminating the bottoming at the same time. Finally got real anal about setting up the sag, and now have the back end behaving pretty decently for my riding style. The front was much easier for me to get right, and it also handles everything I ask it to. I've been working on a small track built around the house. I've got a pair of 4foot high jumps that the bike handles just fine in third gear, 3/4 throttle. There is also an 8 foot rise in the back of the house that I will hit in 4th just about wide open. If I pay attention to the bikes attitude in the air, the landing is smooth as silk. If I land front end heavy, it can be a bit of a jolt, but managable. The landing is elevated, as the whole yard steps up there, so I would equate it with a table top, without the drop off on the back side... I feel there is enough there in the suspension to work with, if one puts in the time to find it, and work with it. Sure, I can push the bike beyond it's limits, but then again, at least I know where those are... There's a guy at one of our local MX tracks, heavy set, maybe 265. He sent his suspenders off to race tech, and he pushes his DRZ over the same doubles and triples the kids are hitting on there crf's and rmz's. I wouldn't go quite that far on mine...
  9. DaveGWV

    Carbaration Blues on a DRZ-E

    Just wanted to let those that came to my rescue by posting, that after I pulled the carb to double check everything, make the minor adjustments, and put it all back together... Well, it isn't all back together yet, but I did place the tank on, and hooked up the fuel line. The bike started within a few seconds on the starter button with the choke on, and came to idle pretty quickly(thank you, thank you, thank you). I still have to hook up the throttle cables, and put all the body work back on, which I will do later today. I build custom rifle stocks, so there is some work in the shop that needs doing before I get to play...
  10. DaveGWV

    Carbaration Blues on a DRZ-E

    It has been about 3 weeks since the bike was last run. It was a little hard to start that time, needing a bit more cranking time to light, but then it ran A-OK. I ran for about half an hour, and then again about 20 minutes after that. While the engine was still warm, I needed to choke it to get it to loight the second time(unusaul for this bike). OK, I just got back in from yanking the carb to check everything... Needle is EMN clip 4 pilot is 38 PAS set at 5/8 (seated then reset)-turned out to be where I orginially had it set... main is 158 fuel screw previously thought to be at 3 turns out, turned out to be at only approx. 1/2 turn out, now set at 1 1/2 out. It's quite cold here (35), and it was a pain getting the carb back into the boots. Wound up soaking one of them in hot water, and heating the airbox boot with a hair dryer for a few minutes. I've got some other things to take care of this evening, so I won't be able to finish bottoning everything up, but will do so tomorrow morning. Does this set up sound corrrect? I'm going to put a fresh plug in tomorrow AM, and am praying it fires up. It's supposed to be a bit warmer here tomorrow as well...
  11. DaveGWV

    Carbaration Blues on a DRZ-E

    Not quite the same carb, as far as I can tell from looking at the picts. Almost, but I see little differences here and there, like the throttle linkage, TPS mount, choke, etc... As afr as rejetting without removing, the needle is no problem, although I do need to rotate the carb a little to get enough room to get at the top allen screws without hitting the frame. Main is doable without removing, but MUCH easier off the bike. I don't have an extended fual screw (yet), and I haven't figured out how in the world anyone can get a hand in there to adjust the thing on the bike. I will get the extended screw as soon as I can figure out which one my carb takes, as there is a shoulder on the screw that will hit the float bowl cover if trying to install from the bottom... I did solder an extention on the existing screw that worked A-OK, but knocked it off the last time I put the carb back in... trying to wedge it back in above the starter. I should have turned it all the way in prior to installing.
  12. DaveGWV

    Carbaration Blues on a DRZ-E

    I have an 06 DRZ-E, airbox opened up, FMF Ti4w/powerbomb header. I removed the coast enrichener some time ago following all the guidelines I could find on the net. The reason for removing the enrichener was to eliminate an off idle bog that was REALLY bad. I originally went with the recomendation of using the following: 160 Main Jet 38 pilot jet PAS set at @100 EMM needle set on the 4th from the top. The bike ran rich down low, and fowled plugs pretty reguarly. Maybe once every third or fourth ride. Burned suggested going to either a EMN, or EMP, which I have done. I was running the EMN, but still had some trouble with being rich down low, so I switched to a 158 main, and it ran great from idle right on up to Rev limit. Felt strong, with just a faint hint of decel popping. Only problem was that it was kind of hard to get it started. I had to let it crank a bit longer than any other combo I had tried... Well, it is cold out today, and it just won't light. Tried changing the plug, but to no avail. There be no life coming from the steed today. One additional item I will comment on, before begging for someone to please, please help, is that the carb on my bike isn't like most I have seen picts of. It is an FCR, and I suppose it is the 39mm. My slide isn't straight up and down, it is at an angle, sloping from top to bottom. In addition, while I have read about people using the 21 series jets, mine requires the 25 series. One last thing I will mention is that turning the fuel screw in or out does little to effect idel, but will either produce, or remove an off idle bog. Right now it is set at almost 3 turns out... Right about now I am praying for someone to wave a magic wand, as I am SO tired of pulling the carb out of this thing, and am about to be driven to tears, as I "just wanna ride..."... Any and all suggestions on what to do at this point are GREATLY appreciated. Regards, DaveG
  13. I've used the S12's with much success on 250's, but they go away pretty fast in our type of terrain, especially on a larger bike. I also used them pretty much just for MX, and never spent much time with them in the woods... I've had a couple of days now to push the MT16 rear in conditions I would have normally passed on riding with the Dunlops, and my lap times are starting to catch up to ones I posted on dry days running the Dunlops. I now have a whole new level of confidence with how far I can push my bike, as I have yet to feel like I'm "out of control" in these conditions. The MT44 up front has made a HUGE difference. We're supposed to have a few dry days, with high temps, which means the track will dry out to a concrete type consistancy in no time. I am looking forward to testing the new tires in these conditions as well.
  14. OK, as previously stated, I opened up the PAS screw to @ 120-125. I also tried moving the needle to clip 3(down from the top) per Eddie's advice. I just took it out for a test ride around the track and it's a no go like that. There was a HUGE flat/dead spot when cracking the throttle from idle-just about bit it on a creek crossing waiting for it to light!. I switched back to clip position 4 and it helped a bunch. Pretty good throttle reponce throughout... But... for the first time I started getting some deceleration popping. I turned the fuel screw out about 2/3rds of a turn, and it cured most of that. The fuel screw may be at just over 3 out, so I am guessing I need to pull the carb off again, and turn the PAS in a bit? Man, am I getting tired of that routine, hehehehehe... I would say it's close right now, very close... Any other suggestions?
  15. Thanks again Eddie. I will get both needles as you suggest, and give it a whirl. I'll go to clip 3 (third down from the top) in just a little while and try a test ride out on the track as soon as dinner finishes settling in.
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