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About Merc1212

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  1. Merc1212

    2010 yz450 bogs after 15 minutes

    Mebgardner is right, no adhesive just plastic tabs that hold the different parts together. You have to pry pretty hard using two picks to make sure the first tab doesn't click back in as you work on the second. Try not to pry it any further than it needs to be to release but I know I did on a couple and the plastic held up. Sorry no video. The way I look at it the filter isn't meant to be serviced so you need to be ready to buy a pump if you end up breaking it. If you have that in mind, just go at it and if I breaks so be it. If you manage to get it apart then bonus! I can't ride something that isn't running right so those are the only two options - repair or replace.
  2. Merc1212

    2010 yz450 bogs after 15 minutes

    I just disassembled and cleaned mine - very black as well and lots of crap came out. Couple things I noticed talking it apart if others end up trying this: 1. Don't remove the internal hard plastic fuel line, it can be taken apart with it on, just undo the three tabs on the pump housing (I used a pick for the one in the rear and a small screw driver to pry on the other two - in that order) Then you'll have to undo the filter housing (only one tab) then just pull the whole thing out while bending it towards the hose/pump. The hose will bend with the assembly and allow the filter and pump to come out as one - just take it slow. 2. The filter mounting 'washer' (think washer with small teeth on inside) required some prying on the teeth with a small pick then once a few were bent up, I used a small chisel to pry it off. Bend the teeth back when you reinstall to make sure it is locked on. 3. To clean I used a 100% solution of simple green for pressure washers in a small bowl and let it sit for 10 min. Massage it, and then blow it out with an air compressor. Rinse and repeat a couple times. I then dunked it in gasoline and blew it out a couple times just to make sure all the water was out of there. Haven't had a chance to take it for a good ride yet but it is running well so far. Hope it cures my issue (intermittent hesitation at low speed when hot). Good luck and don't be afraid to pry pretty hard on the tabs, a few of them required quite a bit of force to release.
  3. Merc1212

    new yz 450

    I went from an 06 to a '10, and same comments as others, biggest difference is cornering, soooo much better. Engine snap off bottom is very noticeable and makes exiting corners smoothly difficult. Do yourself a favour and remap to Jay Marmont - I haven't looked back. With the map it feels like a pumped up 06, rather than a totally different engine. It does run out of steam earlier, but you can lug it more. I also find it doesn't flame out as easily in the tight stuff. Front end feels lighter, rear suspension I really liked on the 06 and this one doesn't feel much different after being resprung for my weight. I don't feel quite as confident on really fast and rough sections, but it hasn't done anything scary. 2 part plastics aren't great from a durability stand point. I stopped expecting it to start first kick when cold, I just crank it slowly twice (I figure it creates some juice for the pump), then give it a good one and it always starts. Hot starting is a bit of an art - slightest amount of throttle does it for me. But my god can it corner! 06 to this is night and day for cornering.
  4. Merc1212

    Pro Taper Aluminum ball bearing tube?

    How well do they hold up? Do you need to clean them/grease them all the time or are they pretty well sealed?
  5. Merc1212

    New to yamaha

    this is a long shot, but maybe you misunderstood Jacky Vimond for the Jay Marmont map? The Marmont map is in the sticky and is quite popular. I run it myself and really like it.
  6. I came off an '06 YZ450f... things I noticed: - intake is loud when you first ride it, but I honestly don't notice it anymore. - air filter is both harder and easier.... more bolts, and need that tank string but filter itself is so much simpler - no more mounting to cage and getting filter oil everywhere in the air box. Less effort to clean and oil too. Doesn't seem to get as dirty. - brakes felt much stronger than my 06, but they are no KTMs. - starting is ok - no more 1st kick when cold, I gave up and just give it a quick 3 in a row, starts on the 3rd try everytime. Hot requires a little practice, I give it the slightest touch of throttle and can usually get it 1st try. I'm not looking forward to dead engine starts though. - the reduced fuel capacity had me worried, but I don't think it'll be any different than my '06 being that the efi is more effecient. -turns MUCH better and feels lighter...most apparent improvement to me -very jerky off idle as everyone mentioned. Ok in the open, but coming out of turns it is unerving and often threw me out of lines. -I used the tuner and tried the Jay Marmont map...I'm sold. I don't think it is as powerful as stock, but it makes the hit much more manageable and seems to give it more top end. I feel more in control and thus go faster. -replaced front tire before even riding it. Didn't like it on my 06, figured I wouldn't like it on this one either.
  7. Merc1212

    2010 450 hot start tips/help

    +1 on slight crack of throttle when hot. When I say slight, I mean just barely opening... take the slack out of the cable and just a hair more. It's so little, that I find it difficult to hold steady as I kick it. I can manage a first quick start most of the time when just practicing and under no stress, but I worry about a mid race crash or the dead engine starts at some of the enduro races I attend. Practice, practice, and more practice.
  8. Merc1212

    Laying EFI bike down on ground

    :thumbsup:Awesome, thanks Gray.
  9. Merc1212

    Laying EFI bike down on ground

    So you still need 'the drill'?
  10. So you're out practicing and you come up on a kid trapped under his bike. Or you're out trail riding and there's nothing around to lean the bike on. I always did everything I could to keep my carbed bike upright thinking it would be a pain to start afterwards if I didn't. Do the new EFI bikes still have this problem, or is it safe to let them rest on their sides for extended periods? Thanks
  11. Merc1212

    Running a 450 with a dented headpipe ?

    My experience with freezing out dings: try 2-3 times without plugging, should work on most dents. Leave it be for 24hrs to be sure...don't disturb as KJ mentioned. If you have a major crush or a bend that won't shift from doing this, then in my experience, plugging the ends is the only way. As gray mentioned this could cause the pipe to split open, so use at your own risk. I've done it successfully 3 times to the same Ti header with no issues, although the bend did change on the last couple. I had to bend it back else it wouldn't mount up (the "U" in the pipe was wider than before). Ok here's how you plug the ends: 1. Get a good thick piece of steel about 4" square. Drill two holes to mount the stock bolts from the engine end. Put it aside for now. 2. Use a plastic bag and some tape to seal the other end. 3. Fill that end with water, about 6-8 inches or so, to bring it past where the header has it's first bend - not the U just the kink near the kickstarter. 4. Freeze that end only. Leave it overnight with the taped end facing down in the freezer. The ice inside will be shaped like the elbow in that end of the pipe and will form a natural mechanical plug (ie it won't rely on friction, but rather it's shape). 5. Now quickly fill the remainder with water and bolt on the metal plate and a piece of innertube sandwiched in between. Put in the freezer overnight and then check every 4hrs (likely depends on freezer). If it's been more than 24hrs and no result, Take the plate off and melt the ice only in that end and refill with water and try again. 2nd time is the charm for the times I've done it. 3 times once. I've gotten some really bad bends and dings out this way that wouldn't come out with just repeated freezing. Knowing when to quit is important too...if it looks pretty good, it's probably time to take it out. It won't be perfect, but most times all you'll see is some discoloration from where the crease was or for the bad ones some ridges.
  12. Merc1212

    Can a bent header be repaired?

    I managed to fix my bent Ti header on my 2006 with the 'freeze method' but I also had a pretty bad crease and just filling the 'elbow' with water and putting it in the freezer didn't do it (tried several times). Since I figured I had nothing to loose, I sealed the silencer end with a plastic bag and elastic. I filled that end with water (leaving the elbow empty) and froze it so that it would make it's own 'ice plug'. I then filled the elbow where the crease was, bolted on the metal plate and stuck it back in the freezer. Crease came right out first try leaving behind just a little discolouration of where it was creased, but the physical crease was gone. Been fine since (2years).
  13. Merc1212

    Petroleum oil better?

    I agree 100% - both are required. Lab for pinpointing areas which need improvement in the formulation and field for us consumers to know which works best in our particular application. Field testing has never and will never present the consistent reproducible results that a lab can. And lab tests will never be able to reproduce the exact conditions of your application. I wouldn't base an important decision without considering both either, which is why I posted originally. I'm glad that you have done just that, and it is for this reason that I really value your opinion on this topic, and I'm sure others do as well. Cheers
  14. Merc1212

    Petroleum oil better?

    Very interesting Gray, I didn't know that you had done your own UOAs and found different results. And stating that the above mentioned oils last up to 10hrs is quite impressive - that would cut down my current 10-15 oil changes down to 3 for the life of the bike (30hrs). As for standards and testing - I don't question the methodology, or the various certifications I just question whether or not they are 100% correlated to actual use in a bike, which will have fuel contamination etc. But if you're saying that the UOAs looked fine after 10hrs, I'll take your word for it. Thanks for the response.
  15. Merc1212

    Petroleum oil better?

    While the AMSOIL test seem quite exhaustive, the fact that they sponsored it worries me as well. That is not to say that it isn't as good as they say it is, but I would definitively take it with a grain of salt. The other part I don't like about it, is the fact that the tests are all synthetic - none of the oil is run through a real engine. This makes the tests easy to run and they will produce consistent results run after run but to state in the conclusion that the oil that does best in these tests will be the best in your engine with certainty, is a bit of a stretch. Sunruh, what I love about your tests is that they are done in an mx bike and under mx conditions - no group of synthetic benchmarks can replace that. It is real world, the only problem being the controls - it is difficult to reproduce similar results and subject oil to identical conditions each time. I wish someone had the time and money to do this, but I'd suggest a dyno based test in an mx bike as a good compromise of real world and synthetic benchmarking. All that said - I have much more faith in your results Sunruh than any biased oil company comparison. I think it is quite obvious that you are not being paid off to run these because your results flip or flop everytime brand x releases a new formula. I am curious about your comment on the latest CI-4 oils - are all new bottles of Rotella, Dello, mobil adhearing to this standard, or can you still find the old stuff (CF-4)?