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About meatbomb

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  1. meatbomb

    XR400 Cam Chain

    This is FACT cuz the bike mechanics at my work do it all the time and showed me how. Put a paint mark on one of the links then punch out that pin from the chain (using a micro chain breaker) and VERY carefully so that the pin does not come out of the last link - slide it across so that all the link bits separate. Join up one end of the new chain and slide back the pin so that it is fully home and then pull the new chain through the engine. When you see your paint dot just slide out the pin again (making sure it does not come out the last link or it is difficult to get back in) and join the two ends of the new chain. Burr the end of the pin by smacking it with a panel hammer (you will need to brace the back of the pin against something solid). Easy as pie. Done it and it works. took half and hour and no gaskets, and engine bits to mess with.
  2. meatbomb

    lower the xr400

    Just go down to your local emo-shop and get yourself some gary-glitter type platform boots.
  3. meatbomb

    XR handling on the freeway...

    raise the tripple clamps on the forks as high as possible to make the bike the least twitchy as possible which is nicer when you are riding at speed. Most just level the top of the fork-tube with the tripple clamp; I have on occasion gone a bit further without too much bother. If you have not already got a 15 tooth sprocket on the front get one. Also consider losing a few teeth on the rear sprocket so the bike is not working so hard. Go down the bike wreckers and get some old bar-end weights. They will look crappy but single-cylinder vibration sucks over a long ride and the bar weights may reduce this a bit. Use pure road tyres not 80-20 hybrids; they will roll easier. Use a full face helmet not a dirtbike helmet. Don't ride near any zoos for fear of attracting any unwarranted attention from the male gorillas as you will undoubtebly get a terrible case of monkey-butt from riding that narrow seat. You have been warned....
  4. meatbomb

    Removing the auto decompressor....

    I think there is some confusion with the naming of stuff (although I am sure most people get the gist). The thingy that goes on the camshaft is the AUTO decomp. The cable (which turns a pivot that depresses the exhaust valve) is the manual decomp. If you disconnect the cable you are removing the manual decomp. If you press off the cam assembly (or grind down the follower lobe) you are removing the AUTO decomp. The bike will happily exist without any ONE of them but not both. It is easier to get rid of the cable and lever (since the auto comp make them redundant anyway), but in my opinion the removal of the cam assembly is a better thing for your bike (but you really need to know the difference between a shifting spanner and a hammer to do this yourself).
  5. meatbomb

    What brake pads do you guys use?

    I have used everything from stock honda parts to ferodos and absolute no-name-brand cheapos and quite frankly none seem any better or worse than the others (although some are significantly more expensive). More importantly you need to determine whether to use organic (?) or scintered. The standard pads are the organic (??? I stand to be corrected here) type and are RED. These are soft, offer good braking, are inexpensive and offer minimum wear on the disk. They also will not even make it through ONE ride if the trail is wet and muddy, and this will bump up your cost of riding somewhat (since you will be replacing them every ride or so). It also sucks to do half a ride with no brakes and the knowlege that every time you hit the brakes (reflex action) you are running metal to metal and probably scouring your disks something horrible. The scintered type are the gold pads. These are more expensive, put more wear on your disk and brake OK, but they last a long time. For 90% road I'd go red pads but anything else I'd reccomend scintered.
  6. meatbomb

    Speedo For XR400

    I have used the trailtech units and while they are excellent functionally, I have come to the opinion that they are not robust enough for trail riding. One decent knock and the display stops working. The LCD bits are connected to the circuit boards with some weird glue stuff and once they separate they are toast. The trailtechs are expensive to replace and after three of the things I gave up. Since then I went to a bicycle shop and bought a cheapo speedometer that works off a magnet on the front hub (same as the trailtechs). It was less than a quarter of the price and I have crashed a squillion times (I have no talent as a rider) and it still works just peachy. My bike speedo does not have a backlight but there are backlit models available.
  7. meatbomb

    How do I get my tank back to white?

    Gotta get me some of whatever Michael Jackson was on back in the eighties. Hey he got really white so maybe if I rubbed some of it on the old tank.......
  8. meatbomb

    96 xr250r piston rings install rebuild Help!

    is there a 'lip' where the rings stop on the barrel? If so then there is wear and you may need a rebore which will mean new piston and oversize rings (and with it new piston pin and pin clips). You already have the new rings so I reckon you ought to just put them in and see how it goes - worst case (if it smokes) you will need to rebore it anyway so you will only be down the cost of a cylinder head gasket and base gasket. Ideally you should take the glaze off the bore before running the new rings (this helps them bed in and seal better). So as to not lose too much metal off the barrel, I would not reccomend using a proper honing tool. I usually just use a piece of 800-grain wet/dry paper and VERY LIGHLTLY make a cross-hatch pattern by moving the paper in alternating left-right diagonals along the barrel length. Do not forget to lube the barrel and the paper liberally with WD40 or similar prior to doing the DIY hone.
  9. meatbomb

    Decompressor questions (400)

    Ticking is very common on XRs - most people initially suspect the rocker arm adjustments, auto decomp cam and then the cam chain (in that order). They supect these things in that order because the respective remedy for each becomes sucessively harder and more expensive to implement. My guess however is that your cam chain tensioner is shot. For very low $$ (and very little effort) you can put in a new one and I bet the ticking will go away; I have done it on many XRs so far and on each occasion the ticking noise went away or was significantly reduced. When installing it be sure to first wind it out fully and then wind it in SLOWLY once the bolts are tightened. The manual gives the dimensions of a key that should be used for this purpose; I ground one into shape using a thick feeler guage blade. Every one is correct - the auto decomp does tick when it becomes old (but not very loudly though) and it CAN fail. The bike is better without it.
  10. meatbomb

    xr400 carb problem

    I agree that the idle speed adjust (throttle stop) might be off. There IS a pilot screw to adjust the idle mixture on the stock carb of XR400 from 96 on. It is located on the front underside of the carb just under the boot that attaches the carb to the head. The manual says to "turn the pilot screw clockwise until it seats lightly then back it out 2-1/4 turns then with the throttle stop screw set to approx 1300 rpm, adjust the pilot screw in or out untul the highest rpm is obtained" I'd bet my old wheel bearings that this will fix the problem. For all you jet-nazis, your main jet size will have no appreciable affect on idle speed, and your pilot jet would have to be several orders of magnitude wrong before it will completely useless. Look to see if your float is set to the correct height; too low and the pilot jet will be starved on demand. For this reason (and to offset bogging on hill climbs) you should fit a small piece of fuel pipe to the to pilot jets to extend its reach anyway. very important: if the new bike has been standing for any length of time the fuel may have gone off. Drain the tank and the carb bowl (there is a drain plug) and put in new fuel.
  11. meatbomb

    Can 17" CBR wheels be adapted to the XR400?

    I did mine using CBR250RR 17" wheels (see my garage). The CBR250RR is mosly a Japanese import into australia so I'm assuming they crop up other places in the world too. If anyone wants the dimensions etc of the spacers please PM me and I'll give details. BTW I now have a road bike so my Motard wheels are up for sale. I'm after AUD$700 for the whole Kit (it would cost you about AUD$2K to make up wheels by putting together hubs rims and spokes). The rear tyre is brand new (about 60km old). With the wheels comes all the correct spacers for XRs, as well as the adaptor plate for the front disk and a shorter chain for the cush-drive rear sprocket. It takes approx 40 minutes to change from dirt to road wheels (chain change included). I ride to work mon-fri on good sticky road tyres and have soft non-DOT knobbies for weekend dirtriding. It doesnt get much better 'n that. C'mon yous aussies give me a PM and get yourself motarding.... it's the most fun you can have with your clothes on! Meat (ashamed to say I now ride a cruiser) bomb
  12. If you put in a hotcam or take off the auto decomp mechanism it is essential to use the manual decomp lever because it is quite difficult to kick through the compression and the extra pressure exerted due to kicking will often cause the countershaft to sheer. I think this was fixed after '97 or 98, but why work any harder than you have to; I turn the motor until there is compression then with the manual decomp lever pulled I turn the motor (easily) just a tiny bit more and the rest of the start kick is effortless (and start is almost garanteed). Since removing my auto decomp assembly I have found it quite difficult to avoid the rear locking up after a stall or on a hill start. The manual decomp lever fixes this. So far I have seen no discussion on the dexterity needed to pull the clutch using the fingers and using the thumb to grab and hold the decomp lever :-) You gotta remember to let out the cluch BEFORE letting go of the decomp lever or you end up locked up and at the bottom of the hill before you have a chance to get the bike going.
  13. meatbomb

    Horsepower or horsepoo(er)?

    OK we ride XRs here - so I guess we luv 'em. But how do they really stack up against more modern bikes? On paper there is as much horse power in a modern 250cc MX bike as there is in an XR400.... but how does the ride compare??? Is the XR better at low revs? does it handle better or worse? is the suspension better or worse? etc. I have not ridden many other bikes on the trails, but on bitumen the XR400 is like a bicycle with a flat tyre compared to the KTM, Huskie and Kawasaki 450s I have tested (strewth how do those guys keep the back wheel hooked up with all that power). True story: We de-restricted a new '08 KLX450R for a client (I sell bikes for a living) and today (after his first ride) he phoned up and asked if we could reverse the proceedure because the dang thing was just too brutal for him; he preferred his mate's 510 Husqvarna because that was not as quick. LOL Meat (Sheesh i love dirtbikes) bomb...........
  14. I've used a tubeless tyre (with a tube) on my rear wheel for years (I use a Michi X11). It works just peachy. I also use an ultra-heavy duty tube which does seem to wear a bit (it looks pretty scuffed when I've had the tyre off to replace it (every 22 months or so) - but hey I'm on my second tyre in 3 years and I'm still on the same inner tube so it can't be all that bad. Because I run very low pressures I used to get tyre-creep (sounds like a description of one of the apprentices at my local bike shop), but I fixed that with an extra rim lock and some self-tapping screws. Actually the screws probably weren't necesary but I did not want to keep breaking the bead after every ride just so as to re-align the tube. Meat (trials tyres ROCK) bomb........
  15. meatbomb

    Xr 400 noise...Decompressor and Cam chain?

    The auto decomp is easily taken off the stock cam without using a commercial press; a few strategicly placed pieces of metal tubing in a large bench vice works just peachy. Some folk do not bother with plugging up the oil-feeder hole that is exposed, but I just fashioned up a collar by drilling out a small piece of the original steel handlebars (that I had left over when I put Renthal bars on). I cut a notch in the collar to allow the locator pin on the camshaft to fit. You may still have a ticking noise though. Probably the timing chain (which is not always a rattling sound). The manual explains the 'proper' way to replace the timing chain, but it is waaaaay easier to break the old and new chains then atttach the new to the old and use the old chain to pull the new one into the bike. Then just re-join the new chain and burr over the pressed-out rivet with a small hammer. You can buy micro chain breakers or use a c-clamp with a suitably sized torque bit (or similar). Meat (Boer maak die plan) bomb......