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About MoabRocker

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    TT Newbie

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    District of Columbia
  1. Thanx for the advice MrKaToom. That is what i was expecting however i have never been on one and the chances of that are slim. As far as this ol' man riding any more wheelies, i swore it all off. i have late stage Type 1 Diabetes and so many broken bones and joints to risk even the slightest injury at this point could take me off my 2 wheels for good. im guessing that the stock spring rates will be perfect for me in that my weight will compress the suspension to where im flat footing the bike. i dont care if i bottom out if i slightly jump the bike but i need to be able to get my feet on the ground now cuz i have inner ear problems that result in virdigo due to the Diabetes. i think this will be a good match for me. again thanx for listening . . . .
  2. Currently on an 04 Drz-400. i am Currently old, ill and injured, but my spirit is good. The 400 is to tall and strong, I tried a Koubl Link to lower it and it screwed up the suspension so i put it back to stock. im up on tip-toes to hold it at a stand still. it is to heavy and tall for me to handle it. I need something under powered and plush. I am 56, 190# with a 30" inseam and need to get my feet flat on the ground when stopped. im no longer competative and am quite happy to "just show up" at this point. what can i expect in an 2013 CRF-250-X coming off a DRZ-400?
  3. checked an exploded parts view of the valve train, no compression release to malfunction. almost 100% on the vapor lock. is there any history of this problem?
  4. Hmmmmm. Damn good points there SlowRider. Ill check on that right side exhaust cam and see if im getting any lift. Ill pull the plug and see if any gas is leaking in, but I doubt it. I replaced the vacuum PetCock with a standard unit. It is doing this on both units. Reason I went with the old school is that it takes to many strokes to get some gas to flow, especially if it has been sitting and the float bowl dries up. That takes a lot off the battery. I guess there are safety issue with that but it helps allot. Ive had to may problems with those vacuum units. Fuze . . . . Dughhhhh . . . thanx
  5. I have an 04 S-Model with Head & Can pipe mod, air box mod tuned to perfection. The bike is eating batteries on a cold start situation. Every 6th cold start or so, it locks-up and shorts out the system with the battery getting the worst of it. It has never blow a fuse on this. What I think it happening is that the battery plates are getting stressed until the battery won’t hold an adequate charge any more. You need a solid 11.4 volts to get the Ignition to fire. I have been through several batteries with this. I have found that on a cold start, If I put it in gear and rock it a bit, moving the piston up and down in the bore, that it relieves this lock-up on cold start. it does not do this on a warm start. I was wondering if the bike has a compression release that may be malfunctioning. What else might be going on here?
  6. Petcock Fuel Valve Gas Valve I have an 04 S-Model and my Idiot Fuel Valve failed closed. I want to replace it with a Normal Valve. Will and E-Model bolt up to the steel gas tanks used on the S-Models? Is there an aftermarket replacement that will fit that bolt pattern? I pulled it apart to see if I could bypass the vacuum shutoff but did not see any easy solution.
  7. Hmmmmm ..... ? ? ? ? Really ? ? ? Might be wasting my time jetting out that carb then. I tell ya it is real close though. I bet i can get that high gear, high rev bogg out of it and make it scream like it does in 1st gear .... I was impressed with the carb though, i figured they would throw some lawn mower grade butterfly valve unit on it, but it is a slider type with pilot and main jet circuits. You can work with that ...... Lookin over that pipe though you might be right though .... Im not gona put and aftermarket system on it, to noisy.
  8. I freaked out when i saw that on my YZ-426, my DRZ-400 and my brothers DRZ-650 ......... No worries mate, it is the way they run ..... Now if yer glowing all the way to the can then you got a problem ....... Should just glow a little till the first bend. One reason is, is ..... Cuz the manufacturers are trying to get there stuff EPA compliant and the best way to do that is to make them run hot and get a complete burn on all that nasty fossil fuel ........ Another reason is, is ..... The wall thickness on the head pipes is thin in order to conserve weight so they heat up real good ......... Now ..... I assuming yer 450 is a RFS (Racing Four Stroke) and as so they dont like to sit still and idle. You will probably notice that your radiator will blow off, boil off if you do idle it for more than 3 minutes or so ....... Again it is a weight consideration. Small capacities, especially in the cooling system, so ya gota keep some air moving through it. Bottom line is if yo are running the bike standing still, wrenching on it or something, put a fan on it ...... It is not so much how much heat your pipe is dissipating, it is how much heat your combustion chamber is seeing. My guess is that all is well and a quick look at your plug burn will set your mind at ease. Chop test it and look at the plug and then idle the bike and take a look. I bet your running a cool tan. chocolate ....... Any Hoooooo, bottom line is, jet that beeotch. Define your environment, and get er dialed in complete with a Chop Test. Throw a street meat on the rear wheel and strap it up on a dyno and post the results here on TT.Com ...... No bike is jetted right from the dealer ..... That said, a little Red off the Head is normal ...... Ya wana really freak, idle the bike in the pitch black of the night and it will be glowing like Chernobyl ...... Again normal, don't sweat it ...... Enough said .......
  9. Trying to dial in my PW ..... Just picked up an 02 PW-80 for my nephew, gona turn him into a fine piece of scooter trash, i paid $600 Yank for it, it was a steal deal. The bike was in pristine shape, had the original tires, chain, sprockets and spark plug, all in near new shape. The bike was hardly ridden. It was however put up for the winter with the gas in it and got all varnished out resulting in some rough performance. I was able to disassemble the carb and clean it out real good and got it running smooth and strong, but i think it could be running better. The bike is totally stock with the restrictor disc removed, has no exhaust or intake issues, has a tight reed and no obvious anomalies. The 02s run a Mikuni Round Slide VM15SC carb with a #125 main, with the needle clipped in on the third position up, out of 5. The bike will be operated on the East coast @ approximately 500 to 1000 feet above sea level. The bike boggs down at high revs in high gear pinned; like it is starved for fuel. It runs fine pinned in 1st gear, so it is not the rev limiter. I weigh 180# so it is under a maximum load. The pilot settings seems to be OK, the idle speed climbs nice and linear as the air screw is opened and maxes out flat and smooth. It is noted that the idle speed does not drop as the air screw is twisted out past its maximum of 4 turns. The factory jetting for that bike is set up for a sea level, southern california environment, resulting in a relatively rich configuration for my application on both the slow and main circuits. Since my idle speed does not drop as i reach the maximum range of the air screw, i suspect im to rich on the slow side and need a smaller pilot. I suspect that the bogg in high gear under full load pinned is due to a lean condition and that i can resolve this by raising the needle a notch to provide more fuel. Since i have to order the jets and they run $11 a piece Yank, i wana get this thing as close as possible and right on the first shot ....... Wadayathink ? ? ?
  10. The Dealer is right ..... The 250 SX-F (Four Stroke) is an MX bike, designed to run in the 125 class (Cheater Bikes). The YZ-250 is a 250 class MX bike and has twice the power of the 250 SX-F. It would be like stepping off of Secretariat, and on to Bessie the Cow ..... An accurarte comparison of the yz to that sx would be like jumping on a YZ-125, or any mx model. DO NOT Get an MX bike for woods use. It will beat you to death on rocks roots and stumps. You will find you have to re-spring and re-valve it and add fly wheel weight. The tires, final drive and transmission are all wrong as well and you at least want a lighting coil even if you dont run lights ..... To turn an MX bike in to a Enduro GNCC bike is expensive and ruins the bike. Better get a woods bike in the first place. If you want a woods bike in the range of that 250 SX-F, get the 200 XC-W it is a GNCC Woods weapon. It will flat out wax anything in the class, it is light, has a low Center of Gravity (compared to the 4-storkes), flickable and revs high. KTM did one hell of a job matching all the components, Intake, Combustion Chamber and Pipe. It is out of the box race ready. Only thing the 4 strokes have over it is low end but you coming off a smoker would have no problem ..... If you really want a 125 Class 4-Stroke, the Honda CRF-250W is the only one. Honda did there homework and designed the bike from the ground up. The engine is well designed and the chassis is valved and sprung right and balanced perfectly. It flat out waxes the WR .... Somehow Yamaha went out of there way to screw up the WR line ..... My guess is that you will not like RFS (Racing Four Strokes) if you are coming off a YZ-250. If you can afford a KaToom, get you a XC-W, they come in three flavors, a 200, a 250 and a 300 ..... If you like tight stuff that 200 will out flick anything out there. If you want a good all round open woods racer get the 250. If you are a heavy weight Cartman, or intend on riding open terain and desert get the 300, it flat out flys ......
  11. OK ....... I got it ...... Found some Spec on wrenchin down my Ka-Toom and should have the Great Pumpkin back on line by lunch time ..... Yep ..... Got a plan, a case of cold Bud Long Necks, a box of Marsh Wheelings and im good to go and ready to launch ...... If you listen off in the direction of DC (the crime capitol of the universe if you count the politicians) you may be able to hear all the cussing, swearing and crashing of broken glass and tools ....... But ill have her all wrenched down, clean & green, locked & loaded, good to go by lunch time ...... The Orange Order will be in order so all ye IRA, Shin Fein Doggies better have a clean tear off ready cuz yer gona be sucking some roost when ol Moab is has her all tightened up and dialed in ............ Just so ya know ...... This site has got a good late model Pdf fork manuel. You will need to un-zip. The file not your pants, this aint no brothel ..... This link has got a good procedure with some Tips & Tricks, HTML, one page, easy clickin & an easy read. Got a neet PVC Seat Tool trick. Check it out ..... This guy Jeb has got a thourogh hand written Proceed on the deal with some other heplfull procedures as well, Check it out ... Latah ......
  12. OK all ye Orange Order, Dirt Devil Dogs ..... I got me a Smoker, an 02 EXC-300 im wrenchin down for a friend and im getting ready to do some open fork surgery on it. Gona replace the fork seals .... It is off the line stock, leaks on both tubes and has a little play in it, one side being worse than the other, definitely shot, no 35mm film quick-fix here ........ I was wondering where there might be a procedure posted, with any hints and tips on what to expect ? Im assuming that it is the same fork shipped with the 4-Strokers with different valveing and spring rates and am wondering what models and years it spans .... Any one know where i can find this info? Thax in advance .....