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About Shreddy

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    United Kingdom
  1. I need to change the front sprocket. Last time (which was the first time) I did the Loctite fix and all has remained tight in the meantime. I was just wondering if I might encounter any difficulty removing the sprocket from the splines. If so, what is the best method of removal?. Also, what is the best way to remove the old Loctite before re-applying new? Thanks.
  2. I have seen a number of accounts of wire breakages around the steering head, prompting me to investigate my wiring loom in that area. Sure enough, the outer wrapping was cracking and deteriorating. I bought some Cable Tidy from the local electrical shop and popped on a short length in the critical area. It certainly seems to prevent the loom flexing as much. What other remedies have been tried, as I’m not certain if this will provide a long-term solution? Cheers
  3. Shreddy

    What's proper tire pressure ?

    I ride a mix of trails in the south of the UK, but mostly a mix of deep mud and hard, slimy chalk. I used to be happy with 12psi in the rear and 14psi in the front — until I had a couple of pinches in the front (too much for the green slime to fix). I still run the same pressure in the rear, but I now run 16 psi in the front. Not as much grip as I would like on the soft ground, but it holds up when bouncing off the hard stuff. So now it is 16 and 12 — certainly no less in the front, unless you know exactly what conditions you will encounter. I suppose it is a matter of adjusting pressures to suit the conditions you know you will encounter, but rim-locks are a must.
  4. Shreddy

    Footpeg eliminator

    I agree with BrandonCA. Cut the original bracket, paint it and keep the rubber mount. It may be a few ounces heavier that an ally item, but its free.
  5. What is the correct way round for the crush washer? Smaller diameter facing the bolt head or facing the crankcase? I had a quick search but couldn’t find the answer.
  6. Shreddy

    Over the boot or under the boot

    I prefer ‘trousers’ in the boot for most of the trail riding that I do. However, I find that the ones I wear with a zipper at the bottom of the legs can be used either in or out. If in the boot, I simply slacken the straps off on my boots to make room. I only wear them over if it is raining really hard; the ‘seal’ at the top of the boot keeps out most debris, other than torrents of water. Comfort has not been a problem.
  7. Shreddy

    More than an engine to sort

    I don’t want to start any transatlantic aggro — particularly as I am the proud and very satisfied owner of a K3 DRZ 400S that has been ‘thoughtfully’ modified — but on this forum there seems to be a very significant emphasis on uprating the engine, overall bike protection (granted that rad braces and skid/bash plates etc are essential for serious off-road work) and cosmetics. However, there seems to be little talk about suspension modifications — or am I missing something here? When I am riding in the South of England (slippery chalk surfaces and deep muddy ruts predominate) I have no problems with what is a fairly standard engine getting me to where I want to go, but the somewhat-basic suspension set-up seems — at times — reluctant to let me go where I want. Moreover, when I am stuck in a dodgy situation where I really need to be able to loft the front from (almost) a standstill, it doesn’t quite happen (I am not as heavy as the bike by a long way). Not that I am that bothered, I know the old girls limitations and live with most of them. That said, is there an easy way to adjust the standard suspension to combine a degree of suppleness in the early stroke and firm up on the bigger hits, or does this require a highly technical re-valve etc? I find I can trail ride at a reasonable speed with the suspension soaking up average ‘bumps’, but any faster and I am ‘spat off’ big time. I would appreciate any constructive (and affordable) input. Thanks and best wishes from the UK from a mature rider Thanks in anticipation of some positive input.
  8. I had a similar thing happen when I was out on the trail and after dropping the bike. I hit the starter and the fuse blew. Changed the fuse and the same happened again. A friend with me noticed that when I pulled in the clutch to start the engine, the lever was hitting the headlamp flasher switch, which had twisted round in the fall. I moved this round on the bars, put in another fuse and all was OK — and has been since. Maybe the problem was dip and main and the starter all going at once being too much for the fuse — or something else that will rear its ugly head again sometime.
  9. Shreddy

    Bike died mid ride

    I had the very same problem. Check the connector that takes the red and black wires from the rectifier to the battery (behind the air- box cover). Although it is meant to be waterproof, mine had corroded inside, and I know of others that have done the same. While you are at it, check and treat all the other connectors.
  10. Shreddy

    stator question

    I was running on the battery on my 03S until it died. It turned out to be the connector carrying the black and red wires from the rectifier — one of the pins in the connector had corroded. Might be worth a check
  11. Shreddy

    Battery shot or what?

    The bike (DRZ 400S K3) was a little sluggish turning over on the starter the other day, and because I had not ridden the bike for a few weeks I charged the battery and all seemed OK. However, after a few hours off-road riding, the speedo display went out and the bike began misfiring then stopped altogether. There was absolutely nothing left in the battery. I managed to get the bike trailered home and charged the battery again. A voltmeter shows 12.2V from the battery, a little less with the ignition on and the same with the engine running, so it seems there is no charge getting through. Where do I start checking? Are there any common faults/known dodgy connections?
  12. Shreddy

    Blown fuse, please HELP!

    I took a tumble while out trail riding. When I went to start the bike the fuse blew, as did the spare. My friend with me noticed that when I pulled in the clutch to start the bike the lever was hitting/activating the headlamp flasher switch (the clutch lever and switch body had moved in the tumble) I re-positioned lever and switch, put in another fuse, crossed my fingers — and all was OK. Has been since. I don’t suppose this helps, but it does show what strange things electrics can do. Hope you get it sorted
  13. Shreddy

    UK TT DRZ Boxhill Meet in the Spring.

    Brighton - on the south coast
  14. Shreddy

    UK TT DRZ Boxhill Meet in the Spring.

    Count me in. I'm down the road on the Sussex coast and have a K3 400S
  15. Shreddy

    Where to buy sprockets in the UK?

    I buy much of my DRZ bits from Taylor Racing in Chippenham. Go for a steel rear sprocket if you want it to last. I am currently running 14:48. The extra tooth on the back (std E is 14:47) makes a tremendous difference on trickier lanes, now more easily tackled in 2nd and 3rd rather than 1st and 2nd. It just seems to offer a right ratio for any situation - other than the road! As for where to ride, join the TRF. Following NERC there have been many changes to where you can and can't ride. Moreover, you meet like-minded people