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About bgrodeghier

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    TT Newbie

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    mostly motorcycles, street and dirt, mountain biking too, snowboarding, wakeboarding
  1. bgrodeghier

    Exhaust leak started bike on fire

    Last Sunday I was following a couple other guys through some tight twisty stuff in Nemadji, and reaching the top of a small hill I killed the bike and then my radiator cap gave way and let out some steam. It does that from time to time on the tight stuff especially when hills are involved. The guys I was riding with were stopped and looking at me they said 'you're on fire' to which I replied yeah my bike is pretty hot in this stuff, and they said 'no your bike is on fire'. I looked down and saw flames on the right side of the engine, I started fanning them like mad and they wouldn't go out so I yanked off my helmet almost taking my chin with it and started blowing like mad and finally got the flames to die. Upon inspection it was obvious the insulation on a wire going to the water temp sensor had started on fire, but how? I had tipped the bike over a few times prior (typical for me) and a bit of gas had spilled out so I suspected that helped start the fire. I previously knew I had a small exhaust leak where my front and rear manifolds connected as a bit of black soot was accumulating on my water pump cover, but that would be a project for the winter along a bunch of other stuff. When I got the bike home and cleaned off I ran it and found a portion of the exhaust leak was pulsing directly toward the sensor wire which caught on fire. As you can see it completely burned the insulation off the red wire and melted the connector plug a bit too. I was fortunately able to remove the plug and have since repaired the wire as best I could. None of the wire strands had broken just the insulation was burned off and a couple inches of the black jacket had burned and melted too. I have a new graphite ring on order as well as other bits I needed. Keep an eye on your exhaust and be sure to fix any leaks that may cause further damage. That would have been a bummer had the fuel tank started on fire, plus we were five miles in with five more to go. Another interesting learning experience came on the way out, the next five miles to the parking lot plus about three more because things were going well. I stayed in front so they could monitor my bike from behind and let me know if the flames started again. I thought my best bet was to keep the RPMs as low as possible and I rode in 2nd gear the majority of the time at a put-put engine speed. Prior to the fire starting I was back and forth between 1st and 2nd and like many 570s my bike will die momentarily when it gets hot. It usually starts right back up and I just deal with it. It had done this at least three times in the first five miles of that section of single track. Funny thing is the last eight miles going basically the same speed but keeping my RPM really low it didn't die once. I hope I'm onto something here and look forward to testing the theory once my bike is back together and I can hit the single track again.
  2. bgrodeghier

    Tire Change DIY or Not?

    I've been changing my own for over 15 years with no problems. I started using spoons and a few years ago picked up a mojolever, which works slick for removing and installing. I still use a spoon or two in addition to the mojolever. Balancing is done manually, and on my sport bike I've hit 160+ at BIR many times with no vibration. I do balance my enduro knobbies too as unbalanced they'll cause excessive vibration at higher speeds (45+). I made my own weights for the enduro tires by welding a few pieces of 1/2" round stock together using some 1/8" round stock, the weights look like a pontoon boat with no deck and weigh 3.5-4 ounces. If you're a do-it-yourself kind of person I highly recommend learning the skill.
  3. bgrodeghier

    Ideas for shop?

    My home's walkout basement had a huge laundry room, which after moving the washer and dryer to one end allowed for the creation of an indoor shop. It measures 13' x 19' though one corner (3' x 4') is taken up by my furnace. It serves well as a shop, but not a garage. I've found keeping as much stuff on wheels as possible helps when I need more space. Wheeled items include: 30" x 48" bench (1/4" steel top is very nice), combo drill press / bench grinder, old dresser for storage, shop smith. Several of my storage bins are re-used bins and what not my kids outgrew (I'd rather spend that money on tires and other parts). The majority of my frequently used tools are on peg board reducing the number of tool chests. Two 20 amp circuits are sufficient and I'll echo previous statements on 'more outlets is better'. As part of the house basement this is the coolest room in the summer and sufficiently warm in the winter. I'm able to get either/both my dirt bike and sport bike into this shop through the basement door, and often one of them finds this area home in the winter so I can take my time with various bike projects. Great thread and some of the shop ideas here are on my bucket list - maybe my next house when I'm out of the suburbs!
  4. bgrodeghier

    DIY Rear Shock Lowering? KTM 300xc-w

    Update: I was able to get out and test my new lowered set-up this past Sunday and logged about 67 miles of mostly single track, lots of elevation changes, rocky hill climbs, and deep sand. One inch lowering made a huge difference and the bike is much easier to handle on the steep rocky climbs, sandy climbs, and hill sides. There weren't enough log crossings to get a feel for the clearance reduction, but it did not have a negative impact all day. A modification I'm very happy to have made as my bike is much easier to ride at the new height.
  5. bgrodeghier

    DIY Rear Shock Lowering? KTM 300xc-w

    Thanks for the additional info Fattonz. I haven't been on an MX track in a few years, and my interest in lowering the seat is to help me in the tight and technical single track. Through some testing, it appears that adding a 0.375 inches shock spacer, I raise my rear wheel (on the stand, front tire planted) by about 1.5 inches. I'll figure out how much to lower the front later, to match the stock front/rear ride height set-up. My shock ID is almost identical to yours at about 1.975 inches or 50.17 mm. I have the spacer cut to length and fits perfectly. Just have to make a jig to compress and install. If anyone reading this is interested in the results, I should know more this May at the latest. Feel free to shoot me a note and I'll post the results.
  6. bgrodeghier

    DIY Rear Shock Lowering? KTM 300xc-w

    Hey Fattonz, thanks for the write up on this. I'm going through the same process in lowering my FE570. I was looking for info on the length of the spacer. If I followed everything above correctly, your 10mm spacer lowered the bike by 1" at the seat, is that correct? Also, I was going to make a spacer with a bit of 2" steel tubing, but I like your bearing idea. Can you tell me what size it was? Thanks, Brian
  7. I'm not sure about the ID of the 07, but I have an 03 and it came with a bent silencer. I disassembled it (drilled out the rivets) and it just so happens that 3" pipe (has a 3.5" OD) fits very well inside of the silencer. I took a rubber mallet to the silencer while wrapped around the pipe and it came out almost perfectly shaped less the scar from the dent.
  8. bgrodeghier

    PMB silent insert

    I put one on my 03. The silencer insert is installed from the inside of the spark arrester cap so it has to go on before you put the cap on. It's held in place by a single machine screw.
  9. bgrodeghier

    Tire rubbing against new Regina X-Ring chain

    The new x-ring chain is 0.800" wide at the pin, my old chain which is an RK MXZ3 is 0.715" wide at the pin. The extra 0.0425" on the inside seems to be making a bit of a difference. If I have the tire aligned as perfectly as I can there is some chain rub on the tire. This must be normal.
  10. bgrodeghier

    Tire rubbing against new Regina X-Ring chain

    Never mind. I'm pretty sure my rear tire is mis-aligned. Have to switch from bourbon to beer.
  11. I just installed my new regina ZR chain and Iron Man sprockets and my chain is rubbing against my back tire. It's entirely possible my old chain was doing the same thing and I didn't notice as I've been know to miss more obvious things....but I installed the spacer at the engine sprocket so why the clearance issue? Anyone run into this before? Tire is Dunlop Sports D756. Brian
  12. bgrodeghier

    XR50 flywheel pulling / shifting problems

    Thanks Dan. I'm in the SW burbs of the twin cities. At this point I'm not planning on splitting the casing and creating a bigger project. The bike is pretty much reassembled and I've been running it as of last night. The shifter is only difficult to use when the release lever is installed between the shaft and the clutch assy. So I've ruled out a bent shaft or anything with the shaft. I told my son he needs to build up his lower leg and foot muscles and it'll be fine. Besides, I still have my other bikes to work on.
  13. bgrodeghier

    XR50 flywheel pulling / shifting problems

    The two arm gear puller did not work. I gave up before potentially damaging the flywheel. After removing the engine and both covers I realized that the shifter worked pretty smoothly with the clutch arm removed. I have the engine put back together and on the bike. Without the engine running it's back to shifting with difficulty. Could be the clutch. I'm hoping to having it running again soon to see if I can adjust the clutch to make the shifting better. My only guess so far is that the excessive force needed to shift is caused by either a) having to push the clutch springs in farther than normal because it is out of adjustment, or something is wrong with the clutch and it needs to be replaced. I picked the bike up about 10 months ago and have always had this problem, so I don't know the history of it or the previous clutch adjustments. Brian