bgrodeghier

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About bgrodeghier

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Interests
    mostly motorcycles, street and dirt, mountain biking too, snowboarding, wakeboarding
  1. Update: I was able to get out and test my new lowered set-up this past Sunday and logged about 67 miles of mostly single track, lots of elevation changes, rocky hill climbs, and deep sand. One inch lowering made a huge difference and the bike is much easier to handle on the steep rocky climbs, sandy climbs, and hill sides. There weren't enough log crossings to get a feel for the clearance reduction, but it did not have a negative impact all day. A modification I'm very happy to have made as my bike is much easier to ride at the new height.
  2. Thanks for the additional info Fattonz. I haven't been on an MX track in a few years, and my interest in lowering the seat is to help me in the tight and technical single track. Through some testing, it appears that adding a 0.375 inches shock spacer, I raise my rear wheel (on the stand, front tire planted) by about 1.5 inches. I'll figure out how much to lower the front later, to match the stock front/rear ride height set-up. My shock ID is almost identical to yours at about 1.975 inches or 50.17 mm. I have the spacer cut to length and fits perfectly. Just have to make a jig to compress and install. If anyone reading this is interested in the results, I should know more this May at the latest. Feel free to shoot me a note and I'll post the results.
  3. Hey Fattonz, thanks for the write up on this. I'm going through the same process in lowering my FE570. I was looking for info on the length of the spacer. If I followed everything above correctly, your 10mm spacer lowered the bike by 1" at the seat, is that correct? Also, I was going to make a spacer with a bit of 2" steel tubing, but I like your bearing idea. Can you tell me what size it was? Thanks, Brian
  4. I'm not sure about the ID of the 07, but I have an 03 and it came with a bent silencer. I disassembled it (drilled out the rivets) and it just so happens that 3" pipe (has a 3.5" OD) fits very well inside of the silencer. I took a rubber mallet to the silencer while wrapped around the pipe and it came out almost perfectly shaped less the scar from the dent.
  5. I put one on my 03. The silencer insert is installed from the inside of the spark arrester cap so it has to go on before you put the cap on. It's held in place by a single machine screw.
  6. The new x-ring chain is 0.800" wide at the pin, my old chain which is an RK MXZ3 is 0.715" wide at the pin. The extra 0.0425" on the inside seems to be making a bit of a difference. If I have the tire aligned as perfectly as I can there is some chain rub on the tire. This must be normal.
  7. Never mind. I'm pretty sure my rear tire is mis-aligned. Have to switch from bourbon to beer.
  8. I just installed my new regina ZR chain and Iron Man sprockets and my chain is rubbing against my back tire. It's entirely possible my old chain was doing the same thing and I didn't notice as I've been know to miss more obvious things....but I installed the spacer at the engine sprocket so why the clearance issue? Anyone run into this before? Tire is Dunlop Sports D756. Brian
  9. Thanks Dan. I'm in the SW burbs of the twin cities. At this point I'm not planning on splitting the casing and creating a bigger project. The bike is pretty much reassembled and I've been running it as of last night. The shifter is only difficult to use when the release lever is installed between the shaft and the clutch assy. So I've ruled out a bent shaft or anything with the shaft. I told my son he needs to build up his lower leg and foot muscles and it'll be fine. Besides, I still have my other bikes to work on.
  10. The two arm gear puller did not work. I gave up before potentially damaging the flywheel. After removing the engine and both covers I realized that the shifter worked pretty smoothly with the clutch arm removed. I have the engine put back together and on the bike. Without the engine running it's back to shifting with difficulty. Could be the clutch. I'm hoping to having it running again soon to see if I can adjust the clutch to make the shifting better. My only guess so far is that the excessive force needed to shift is caused by either a) having to push the clutch springs in farther than normal because it is out of adjustment, or something is wrong with the clutch and it needs to be replaced. I picked the bike up about 10 months ago and have always had this problem, so I don't know the history of it or the previous clutch adjustments. Brian
  11. My son's 2002 XR50 takes more muscle than he has available to shift through the gears. I'm tearing into the casing to troubleshoot the problem and have come to a standstill with the flywheel. Has anyone ever tried using a two arm gear puller to remove the flywheel? Obviously this would have to be done with some care. I know there's a correct tool for doing this but I hate waiting a week for a tool that costs $20 delivered if I'll only use it once. If anyone has any experience with a stiff shifter I'd like to hear about it. It's harder to shift than my 450 or my RC51. TIA, Brian
  12. I recently purchased an xr50 with a rear shock w/o any dampening. Does anyone, preferrably in MN have a working stock shock they want to unload? Thanks, Brian 00 RC51 03 CRF450 02 XR50
  13. 100 miles on it all stock I understand this bike had some performance problems in 02 due to emissions control. The current (2nd) owner told me he just figured out the throttle was limited to 50% and he adjusted that which brought the power level back to a more reasonable figure. Are there other concers with the 02? Should I be looking at a newer bike for a little more money? This bike will be used strictly for hard trail riding but I don't want to regret not getting more power. Any and all comments on this bike by folks who own or have ridden one would be appreciated. Thanks, Brian