L3stat

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About L3stat

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    TT Member

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    Singapore
  1. Gee, that might be a little difficult given that I'm in Singapore. Thanks for the info anyway!
  2. Sorry to rehash an old thread, but what work needs to be done to the stock head, if I'm intending to use RHC valves and springs in a stock head that's seen about 8,000 miles? New valve seats? I don't even know how these can be replaced.
  3. Thanks! That's more information that I asked for! Just dropped by my local store during lunch time and scored a bunch of main and pilot jets (which were in stock, surprisingly) for about $30, and that greatly reduces the need to buy a jet kit. I have the EMR and EMN needles (came with the TT kit). Might just need a middle ground EMP, but will wait for dyno tune results.
  4. Thank you Sir, my jettings at sea level are: Stock motor with Stg 2 In and Ex 3x3 cut, full open pipe 45PJ PAJ removed 200MAJ 160MJ (or 170 now, DUH)
  5. Thanks Eddie, a local mech recommended the opposite logic and I actually bought it! Now I got a monster 170MJ in the carb! Previously have a 160MJ, I should step it down 1 size or leave it?
  6. Thanks man! The TT FCR is already in my bike. JD kit it shall be then! Just needed to confirm it will work with the TT FCR. Since main jets are the same between the 2, it oughta work (I'm thinking needles are same too). Outstanding problem would be what pilot jets to buy, since they're different, quite easy for me to get the wrong ones. I'm not sure if my FCR is the "newer" series that requires the removal of the PAJ. From this TT store page, which series should I get for the TT FCR? My guess is "22 series", but just want to be sure.
  7. Just to ride on this post, what jet kit would work with TT's FCR kit? The DJ kit for the E sounds like it works only on that version's carb. Are the parts between an E model's stock carb and the TT carb interchangeable?
  8. Assuming you're not too rich, but spot on to start with, what's the reasoning with leaning out for more aggressive cams?
  9. I see, yes, but I wouldn't drill the carrier either. Not a safety issue, just a personal aversion. Mine's a stock SM model, the fork collets are different, would need to inspect that in greater detail. But nice work on the caliper, almost looks factory!
  10. Mark, I'm about to go with the same front end setup as you have, Braking STX55D disc and relocator bracket. Had the idea of using plenty of magnetic bolts, but your close-up pic of the disc just told me it's impossible. No way magnets can be fitted in the floating pin holes? It's a clean setup you got there, but last thing I want is drilling the disc.
  11. Thanks! That is the plan, but I haven't had time to get the stock metal mounts removed. Interim solution of drilling 2 holes on the mask to get it bolted up. Buddy of mine managed to get the E rubber bands (meant for conventionals) to go around the USD forks. Tight fit and some effort, but works.
  12. Here's me on mine:
  13. Thanks. Bump. Anyone else? Would love to get an IMS with a locking cap (Acerbis only option so far), but not sure if it'll work.
  14. Do plastic tanks made by IMS, Clarke, Acerbis etc come with the same tank mouth? I see that some bling gas cap makers like Sunline have universal gas caps. Am wondering if an Acerbis locking cap would work on, say an IMS...