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About jpsYZF

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Larning all I can about maintaining my 05 YZF250; enjoy bass fishing, archery, soccer.
  1. Yes sir, looks like that $10 savings on the Tusk gasket kit cost me a weekend of work and $30 more for OEM parts. Gaskets on order, thanks for all the feedback. Anything else to watch out for other than head and cylinder flatness.
  2. Just completed top end rebuild back in late Jan 2011 (OEM timing chain, piston, rings, pin, clips, with Tusk gaskets kit). After 3 or 4 trips to the track, and a couple oil changes later, everything looked and sounded OK. One hour into yesterday's ride, bike stalled during a tight turn at low rpm. I tried with no luck to restart. After a little rest, I verified gas was flowing and that the plug was firing, but she still would fire up. New plug no help. After heading home and washing the bike down, I tried to start it again, this time it fired up on the first or second kick as usual, so I'm thinking.. was it something simple? After spotting some white smoke at the exhaust, I shut it down quickly thinking head gasket was leaking. Quick check confirmed radiator was empty, and when oil was drained is looked milky brown. Before I open it up to check things over, just wondering if anyone here has any suggestions or recommendations other than the basics i.e. clean everything up, install new gaskets, new oil and radiator fluid? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  3. I'd go for it... the 05's are rock solid! After buying mine used back in April 06, I've had no issues what so ever. Plus you have this terrific forum and all of its experts to assist you when needed. If you do decide to pick it up, be sure to check valve clearances and keep that air filter clean. It would also be a wise choice to clean and re-grease all the bearings and replace seals (~$80). With only 25 hours on it, I’d suspect it probably still has the factory grease. Eventually I got up the nerve to service the front forks myself (~$150 oil, seals & tools). Trail Riding: I'd highly recommend the Trail Tech Kickstand from RockymountainATVMC Part# 1080610010 (~$85). Perhaps a tank upgrade to include a larger tank (expensive).... or... replace the fuel shut-off valve with one from a WR250 to provide you with a reserve switch if ever needed (very low cost). Since this is a close circuit race bike, some trails / parks may require a spark arrestor for the exhaust. With me being 50/50 track & and trails, lowering the compression and rebound clickers really helps smooth out the rough trails, but you may also want to have your suspension reworked for you weight and riding style. Welcome to the forum jpsYZF
  4. I have a 2005 with a estimated 90+ hrs since I purchased it used in 06 (no hour meter, but I've been recording usage time manually). Every since I noticed the clearances getting close to the min. (about 1-1/2 yr ago), I've been checking them every 10-15 hrs. After last nights recheck, I'm glad to say that exhausts and intakes are all still at or near min clearance... and it still has the original shims. jpsYZF
  5. jpsYZF

    01yz250f will not start

    Here you go.. A little help on the valve adjust & feeler gauge... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=629430&highlight=feeler+gage http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316437&page=2&highlight=feeler+gage Per grayracer "Just ordinary $8 flat guages marked in English with the metric equivalents. I trim the 3-4 guages I use on the center intake of the 250, and that's it. Don't need no more." http://www.hotcamsinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=cInstallationVideos.viewInstallationVideos The factory service manual states to remove the gas tank, radiator, bla, bla bla. Many of us perform the check without removing these items. jpsYZF
  6. Here's a bit of info that may help.. Ref: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271134 If your static sag is more than 35mm with the correct race sag, your spring is probably too stiff for your riding weight. What happened is this: to get your race sag correct, you set the preload lower than it would have been with the correct (softer) spring. So the bike sags more than the recommended value under its own weight. Ref: http://www.mcxtreme.com/bwr_tuning.php The sag measurements for each bike vary a little. With most full size bikes look for a race sag measurement between 95mm and 100mm, and the static sag measurement ending up at a point between 15mm and 25mm, with 20mm being perfect. If you get your race sag properly set but your static sag is less than 15mm, you will need a heavier spring to correct this measurement. The same goes if the static sag is greater than 25mm, except a lighter spring will be needed to correct the measurement. jpsyzf
  7. jpsYZF

    Good place to buy parts

    Thanks Valerie... When did the membership stop?
  8. jpsYZF

    Good place to buy parts

    You are correct! This morning when I attempted to verify if 1992 parts were listed, the TT OEM store site was down. Since Crotchrocket listed WR parts back to 91, I assumed that the TT OEM store would also. I was definitely surprised when I found that it only goes back to 2001 and doesn’t even list TTR parts. Sorry for the bogus info. Definitely check out the crotchrocket site.
  9. jpsYZF

    Good place to buy parts

    TT's OEM parts store but it requires a $10 membership. IMHO it's worth the prices because you'll save that much on your first order over Dealer prices or the Yamaha on-line parts store + you'll be supporting ThumberTalk:thumbsup: Also check out Crotchrocket.com. 1992 WR250 http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1992&fveh=486 2000 TTR225 http://www.crotchrocket.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=2000&fveh=947 http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx http://www.oemcycle.com/ For aftermarket parts, try RMATV http://www.rockymountainatv.com
  10. My2cents... My2cents... I love the "Stock Look and Performance". I buy OEM when ever the cost is reasonable. Keep in mind that I don’t' race... more of a "weekend - warrior" that rides HARD and keeps the bike well maintained. Just can't justify the high prices of some top-end aftermarket parts. I'd say I've spend about 50/50 between TT's OEM store and RockyMountainATV. I've never had any issues with RMATV's aftermarker parts (Tusk, PrimaryDrive, etc.). OEM Parts: I've checked numerous places for typical OEM stuff, and if you look at the total cost (including shipping) for a Full Set of Plastics, or a Full Piston Set (with rings, pin, clips), you'll find that our “TT OEM Store” will be lower or within a few dollars of the "lowest" on-line stores. Great prices + I get to keep that good old Yamaha Quality Aftermarket Parts: I find that ordering aftermarket "Sets" like Bearing Sets, Sprocket Sets, etc. are much lower cost than OEM and the quality IMHO is very good. RMATV also has free shipping for orders >$100, otherwise ~$8.00 flat rate < $100 As a side note….. hope you guys saw Reed win at Las Vegas! jp
  11. jpsYZF

    YZ250F for a beginner?

    My dad got me a play-bike 125 4-stroke (knock-off brand) and it took about 5-6 months before I was killing the suspension and looking for more power. We picked up a used YZ250F about 2 years ago (completely stock) and both of us ride track & trail and enjoy this bike's size and weight (I'm 5'7" 190, my dad is 5'8" 160). Initially we were concerned about the stated ~39" seat height, but it was definitely not an issue for either of us. I've let 2 of my friends learn to ride on it, and none of them had any prior riding experience. Neither of them had any problems learning. A true beginner (i.e. no riding or clutch experience), at first the throttle response will be incredibly touchy, but your son will definitely figure this out on his first ride. He'll learn to respect the power quickly. As for growing out of it... no way... it’s light, fun to ride and there are a tons of aftermarket and mods that can be done to increase HP. As for durability, I've had two ditches in two years (had to laid it down on hard-pack track to avoid other riders), with NO serious damage (just grips, and twisted forks (loosened the pinch bolts and twisted it back). Your son will grow into it quickly! jp
  12. jpsYZF

    glowing exhaust

    On our YZ250F's glowing orange is normal for the titanium header when sitting still (no air flow) or in low light. Glowing RED HOT may be an issue of running too lean. Not sure on your YZ125. Do a search and you'll find plenty of feedback on this issue. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=630729&highlight=glowing+exhaust
  13. jpsYZF

    Do 05 yzf 250 have titanium valves

    Yes, 05's have titanium valves. Better than stainless, that's a matter of opinion. Perhaps someone with experience using both the OEM and replacement SS can provide feedback on which last longer. jp
  14. jpsYZF

    fork seals

    05's have the dual chamber forks. I did mine last fall (both inner and outer chambers). Took a few tools that I didn't have (seal driver, cap wrench/ damper rod holder and cap socket wrench which cost me ~$85. Others here on TT mentioned that you can empty the inner cartridge fluid without opening the cartridge, by simply inverting and pumping the cartridge several times. Perhaps I'll try that method at the next fluid change. As for the details, I used the Yami manual and a write-up in DirtRider. In addition the Cap Wrench/ damper holder tool from ebay ($24) also came with instructions. http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=123451&highlite=kayaba+forks I replace the teflon coated busings, along with seals and wipers. Total cost from TT's OEM store ~$75. The Yami S1 fluid was about $25. Total cost was a bit less than handing the forks over to the dealer, but at leaset I know it was done right Let me know if you have any questions, I'll be glad to help. jp
  15. jpsYZF

    Front Number plate

    Not sure about the fit, but the part numbers are different. (infor from crotchrocket.com) 2004 YZ PLATE, NUMBER = 5HD-23485-01-00 (replaces 5HD-23485-00-00) 2004 YZF PLATE, NUMBER = 5HD-23485-11-00 (replaces 5HD-23485-10-00)