theDogger

Members
  • Content count

    1,593
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

135 Excellent

1 Follower

About theDogger

  • Rank
    TT Platinum Member

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    ber1421@yahoo.com
  • Yahoo
    ber1421

Profile Information

  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    MX, Golf & R/C
  1. HAHA SDI is Suspension Direct. Honestly best sourcing some used parts of eBay. But if it was me I would get a TAP set and clean the thread up unless the female is hammered also? theDogger
  2. Well honestly I would love to he but but I dont really have any setting that will work very well with the KYB PSF2 fork. These forks were so half baked that they should have never been released to the public. The problem is that there is no where for the pressure to blow off or better yet balance itself as the fork compress. Think of it this way...if these were conventional forks it would be like your PS Spring increasing 10x in rate as your fork compresses. This is why Showa added the balance chamber in later revisions of their all TTAC forks. What you end up fighting even with the correct valving setup is they either work awesome on the chatter and braking bumps but don resist bottoming and are soft or they beat the shit out of you and work great on bottoming and the heavy stuff. Especially if you are under 200lbs. Heavy riders you can kinda get them setup but still there is a lot of give and take. What happens is that you end up fighting Air pressure and oil height. In regards to the shock they are easy to setup, if you can I would suggest to get a set of CRF conventional oil forks off ebay you will be a lot happier. Sorry I am not much help with this -theDogger
  3. Private message sent! Sorry for not getting to you sooner! theDogger
  4. Good call on the MV 20x.10 shim works all the time I know that I mentioned this somewhere in this there but on pg. 13 https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/327668-diy-04-450-suspension-re-valve/?page=13 theDogger
  5. Haha...I'll get out then Shawn. Hey you get my PM? theDogger
  6. So at 190lbs for trails you should have: Fork Springs: .46kg Rear Spring: 5.4 kg Your float should be no more than .20 float... Out of being curious...what sag are you running? What is you clicker settings? What is the Oil Height? Basevalve ++++++++++++++++++++++++ 6.36.15 -----------------> remove 1 26.1 3.36.15 -------------------> remove 2 34.1 32.1 30.1 28.1 26.1 24.1 22.1 20.1 10.18.2------------> added 18.2 from below 3.36.15 -----------(Shims that were removed in active to keep stack height) washer -----------> 18.2 (moved from above washer to below to open up bleed) ??????? What does this mean? Put it back above 3.16.2 MV: ++++++++++++++++++++++ 4.22.1 ---------------------> remove 1 14.1 ------------------------> remove 2.20.1 ----------------------> remove 1 18.1 16.1 14.1 12.1 10.2 (6mm inn. dia.)<------------------------Add (2) 12.3 (2) 19.3 22.1 (take up space for correct float.) Add adjustment shims to get the float to .20mm or grind down the spacer to appropriate length...also consider doing the shock at the same time so you can balance the front and rear!
  7. Nate do the shock also....Out of being curious...what sag are you running? Ht: Wt: Fork Springs: Shock Spring: What are your clicker settings? Font and Rear? Tire Pressure Front and Rear? What is the Oil Height? How are you calculating the float? theDogger
  8. HMMMMMM.... theDogger
  9. Compression (3) 44.25 (8) 44.20 32.15 <--------------------WTF??? to small a cross over start at 36.15 22.15 <--------------------WTF??? to small a cross over start at 32.15 (2)44.20 42.25 40.25 38.25 36.25 34.25 32.25 30.25 28.25 26.25 25.25 24.25 22.30 You could add a couple 17.30s to the high speed adjuster too. That lets you run the HS adjuster open a little further for more flow, but brings the high speed on a little quicker. Better of getting the FC HSC spring and running 3 open. If you have never taken a HSC apart it can be pretty hairy......and putting it back together can be even harder....easier to just swap the spring. Part of his problem is that he is trying to cover two completely different type of riding styles in one setup...better figure out what 20% you are will to accept and deal with and valve for the other 80%. This is like asking for a Trail stack but you like to jump huge jumps also!!! theDogger
  10. Whats up Shawn hope all is well.....remember there are only 4 actual oil companies that supply all the franchise. KYB, SHOWA, MAXIMA and some euro brand. If you really want better fork performance get SKF seals and run one of those 3 brands. theDogger
  11. What year CRF? 2002-2008 BV Inner= 6mm MV: the post dia is 6mm Collar 8mm outer 6mm inner Active Float= 8mm inner (Active meaning that they are calculated in the float measurement) Inactive (not in the float) 6mm inner (Inactive normally the MV clamps not calculated in the active float) ie: 4-20.10 (8mm inner) 18.10 (8mm inner) 16.10 (8mm inner) 14.10 (8mm inner) 12.10 (8mm inner) 2-10.10 (6 mm inner, not active) Collar: 195mm Float .15 (never exceed a .20 float) totall 8mm = .80 piston recess= 2.0 collar: 1.95 2.0-1.95=.95 .95-.80-.15 Float theDogger
  12. Things riders just don't get or take into consideration when attempting to tune their own suspension: 1- Something that riders don't get and have a hard time understanding is that 95% of the time there suspension is too SOFT! 2- More profound changes are found in modifying the MV not the BV. Reason being is the a 12mm dampener rod doesn't displace that much oil into the BV as opposed to a 16m found on A-Kits which displace as much as 4x more oil into the BV thus making it that much more tunable. 3- The BV only see a small portion of the overall fork oil and is more or less static where as the MV is dynamic 4- You Spring seats are a secondary dampening 5- Using Lighter PS Springs for MX with riders over 200 lbs is a waist of time. Better off going to a stiffer PS Spring 6- Your shock rear has no HS dampening adjustment. All the clickers are LS as they are on the Forks. 7- No aftermarket valve is better than OEM. It it was the Factory team would run them. 8- No you can have a setup that works both for MX and trail riding! 9- Before even worrying about changing the stacks get on the correct spring rates and set your Sag correctly! 10- Don't buy into all the after market crap out there. Unless you are getting paid a salary to race you probably will not be able to realize the full potential of what the part offers. 11- Dont be afraid to experiment and turn your clickers and change the sag to see what polar opposites will do. 12- There are 4 main companies that make your suspension oil and 3rd party companies either just re-label it or have a different color dye added...so that super slick RT fork you just bought is no different than Maxima Racing Forks Oils its just a different color! My 2cents theDogger
  13. You cant get there from here! MX and Trail setups are very different and at all costs AVOID RT GOLD VALVES! theDooger
  14. If you haven't already drill the bleed hole on the impeller to release the cavitation behind the impeller and that will help any issue moving forward after you replace everything...or get a Boyseen replacement that has this already drilled theDogger
  15. I realize you have finished but thought that I would through this out there. I had just finished replacing my crank and bearing on a 2004 CRF450 and had the cases buttoned back up and was told that I have no zero drop. Used a dead blow hammer to wack the clutch side shaft and then test again. Now I have zero drop....... What is a zero drop you ask? So if you take the and rotate the engine so the crank is TDC and you slightly move it forward and it fails but slowly the crank in not centered in the bearings. After hitting it a couple time with the dead blow hammer test again...no when you slightly move it forward and release it should free fail down to the bottom of the stroke and the crank is centered int he bearings. Its the small things that add up HP! People my have other was of doing it but this was shown to me by an old engine builder than has re-built numerous 2-Stroke and 4-Stroke race engines on the national circuit. I was rebuilding my engine in his shop with his son and he walked over and check the crank, he looked at me and said your crank is not centered and proceeded to demonstrate what I outlined above. He handed me a dead blow hammer, then told me to wack it twice......then he said now your crank is centered int eh bearings. I asked him would this not happen once the engine is up and running...he said nope...that will be shop rate and walked back to his porting table and started grinding..... theDogger