jimbob69

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About jimbob69

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    Michigan
  1. The top dead center is true TDC, i never trust the mark on the flywheel, I use a runout (I think thats what its called) guage Thing to get exact top dead center. The valve timing is right on, i know this for a fact. and I quadruple checked all the valves and tolerances are spot on. Remember, comp was perfect for what it should be for the autodecomp cam, and it started right up, then died with no compression. when kicking the bike over slowly by hand, when it comes up on the comression stroke i can hear air hissing from the airbox, so that makes me think i got a intake valve thats stuck open slightly from a piece of carbon or something. Does this happen?, I did a solvent test on all the valves while i had the engine apart and out of the frame, and all sealed 100%. What im thinking is maybe the solvent loosened up some carbon in the intake port, and a small chunk or flake got just right in there. Idk, grey could you chime in? Another question, anyone know of the best bang for buck when buyin head gaskets, I've had nothin but bad luck with cometic (blew three of them last summer) then i switched to OEM with no problems at all. but they charge fricken 35 bucks around here for one. and thumpertalk store aint too much less. thank you ~jim~
  2. No , it isn't the decompression release. I have a hotcam autodecomp, and i checked and it is working fine.
  3. Alright, so last August I took a nasty fall that spelled a torn ligament in my knee, That crash, the throttle got pinned wide open when the bike was on its side, and the big end crank bearing failed. I've just now been getting it back together and running. This is the problem. I finished putting it together last night, with a new crank, main bearings, piston, rings and timing chain, (and gaskets of course). Started right up, ran perfect . So this morning I go out to take it for its break in ride, and it starts right up, no problems, I take off down my driveway, at the end of my driveway i let off the throttle, putting some decell load on the engine, then I pulled the clutch in and it just died. I go to start it up again and theres no compression, or very little for that matter. Not enough to run with for sure. Sooo, I pulled the valve cover off, and the cams were still in perfect time, cam chain was tight, all valves have proper clearance. What could it be! im stumped and i am sooo sick of wrenching on this thing please someone help me!!! ~jim~
  4. Thanks guys it helps a lot! ~jim~
  5. Where do you guys buy OEM husky parts? My buddy needs a flywheel puller, crank, and piston, for his TE400 Any help would be much apprieciated, we have searched high and low and can't find out where to get the parts from. ~jim~
  6. No you shouldn't have to take off the subframe, if you knock the locking ring loose with a drift puch or screwdriver and a hammer, you should be able to turn the spring and the ring will go with it. You shouldn't have the shop set your sag, because it is particular for your weight. Dress up in full gear including boots and helmet so its accurate for when ur riding, its easy to do. do a search.
  7. Oh come on!! I have a serious problem here! please help me. What does this sound like symptoms of!?
  8. Just to make it clear ive already tried searching and read over 2 pages of posts and nothing has given me an answer. Last August I took a nasty spill, ended up tearing my mcl so I was out of riding for quite a while. My bikes throttle got pinned while the bike was on its side, The crank didn't like freerevving like that, and well, the big end rod bearing locked up. SO, I'm working on putting the new crank and piston in and getting it runnin again for this spring. I checked the tranny to make sure it shifted thru all the gears properly right after I got the cases together, everything was butter, shifted perfectly. I checked it again after I put the shift shaft in and the external shifting machanism, again it shifted perfectly. I assembled the rest of the motor and mounted it in the frame, hooked up all the lines, put the carb on, exhaust, almost ready to go.... I tried shifting it, when I put it together I had it in first gear, it wuold not shift out of first gear. The shifter wasn't locked up or anything, it would still move up and down about 3/4" but it was like metal on metal, and it wouldn't come out of first, not even go into nuetral. :ride: So I was hoping that while I was putting the right side cover on I must have gotten something on the external shifting mechanism out of place, took it apart, everything was perfect, I took it off anyways to see if I could shift the tranny by just turning the shift drum, >NO GO< it will turn about 1/16th of a turn, then its just a solid metal on metal sound so I thought just maybe something might be binding up because the only lube that was in the tranny was just a light coat of motor oil that I put on during assembly. So i put the clutch cover and everything back on and filled it up with oil, well needless to say that made no difference at all. What could this possibly be? My guess is one of the shift forks is tweaked. When I took the bottom end apart i never had the gears off the main or countershaft, I put zipties on the ends of the shafts so the gears wouldn't come off, just so I had less parts to get mixed up. I quadruple checked before I put the cases together that the shift forks were in there proper places, and I used a cylmer manual to do all this, so it was the correct way. Could a shift fork possibly tweak so that if the gears were in the perfect position it should shift fine but as soon as it got moved around it wouldn't? I am honestly stumped and this isn't the first crank rebuild I've done on a bike, granted it is the first 4 stroke bike, but its really no different in the bottom end. I've done a crank on my blaster and my old cr80 and I never had a problem like this. How do you check if the shift forks aren't perfectly in spec? Should I just take it all back apart and replace all the shift forks? This just isn't making sense to me. one more thing I noticed. are the shift forks pressed onto there shafts? Because I noticed that my Right shift fork, there was a TINY bit of play between the aluminum fork and its shaft, hardly noticable, but all the others were 100% tight, is this a problem? HELP ME PLEAAASEE!!!
  9. I gave up on my yamaha master cylinder, I had the same problem. I got a used M/C of a friend from a 92' KX250, brakes blead easily and ive never had another problem bleeding my brakes, always a nice firm feel at the lever.
  10. You said it turns over with the decomp lever pulled in, but STIFFLY turns over??? By no means should it be stiff, Sounds like a big end rod bearing to me. cranks run about 280 on thumpertalk eom parts.
  11. insane pics, makes me wanna go dune riding!!
  12. If you buy an OEM piston for a 99yz400f (part # 5GR-11631-00-00) Does that include rings, circlips, and a wrist pin? or must you buy those seperate? Thanks in advance. ~jim~
  13. Not that i know of, 12 is as small as they go. remember the smaller the front sprocket the more its workin your chain, and i had a wide primary drive chain and when i ran my 12 tooth the chain ground into the cases almost 1/8 inch. Id go as big on the back as possible.
  14. Is everyone clueless? or am i just retarded?
  15. bump@?