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About NewZooki

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    TT Member

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    Riding, ah...riding, & sometimes a bit of riding
  1. NewZooki

    rear shock adjustment

    Gentelmen! Not to highjack this thread, but since it's on rear shock adjustment, I have some information gaps in reading the shop manual for compression and rebound damping adjustment, The manual, way in the back in the specs, indicates 3 damping adjustments: compression high-speed, compression low-speed, and rebound. In chassis section of the manual, where the actual work with the shock is discussed, only one adjustment is mentioned and it does not exactly jive with what is mentioned in the back of the manual. Can someone please point out where the 3 damping adjustment points are on the shock? I have an '06 DRZ-S. Thanks!
  2. I like the idea of the SuperTrapp endcap and tunability with the diffuser discs, but I will repeat the question above regarding the spark arrestor function. I am not dead certain what part of the stock exhaust is actually doing the spark arresting, but I see the screen tube attached to the inside of the stock endcap. I am guessing this is likely the spark arrestor? Yes/no? If so, when you yank that and replace it with something else without the screen, you are effectively becoming trail illegal in most riding areas are you not? I have never owned a SuperTrapp silencer, so I am wondering if somehow the diffuser discs themselves act in a spark arrestor capacity. Can anyone confirm this?
  3. NewZooki

    Wow - Rear Spring Retainer is 2 Piece

    Thanks KTM-Lew! I came to the site today to post this question, but did a quick search on the forum first. This video is exactly what I needed to see/hear. I actually have my shock in the vice exactly as shown in the video, but was stumped as to how to get the old spring off so I could slide my new one on. Thanks Factory Connection for making such a dead-on informational video (as stated above, the DRZ shop manual us useless in this regard) and thank KTM-Lew for sharing it around. Sigh of relief......I knew it should be simple!
  4. Howdy! Anyone ever had to contact the TT Store to return hardware? I used the "contact us" tool offered at the bottom of the Store page last week but have had no response. Not sure if they are actually that busy answering the incoming mail items or whether my attempt to contact the Store simply failed. Tried to phone them to find out but the 1-866- # provided online does not work up in Canada. Anyone know of an international (or non-toll free) phone number for calling the Store? Any advice would be appreciated. I could not see any other means of contacting the store either online or in the paperwork that arrived with the other guy's parts.....and I'm itching to get my extended fuel screw so I can properly tune the pilot circuit on my scooter!! Thanks!
  5. NewZooki

    Fork Oil Dump - Any Special Tricks?

    Thanks BassMan! Especially for the oil wt. & height tips. I will print out and use your step-by-step as a guide for the sequence. Along with the pretty pictures in the manual, I should get the task accomplished with minimal fuss. (..and, yeah, Cetris, I am whining) Last time I changed a bike's fork oil the drill was: place pan under fork bottoms, take out drain screws, pump forks lightly until oil stops coming out, put screws back in, place bike on stand, take out fork caps, take out springs, pour in oil to desired height, replace springs and caps, go riding. However, given how much better these forks work than any of those older suspenders, it is worth the extra fooling around to keep'em stroking nice'n smooth. Onward....
  6. NewZooki

    Fork Oil Dump - Any Special Tricks?

    Guess I have answered my own question here. Finally got my shop manual (and have crawled around inspecting the bottoms of my fork legs closely as well....hoping). This would be old news to most of you, but is a new shocker to me; looks like you have to actually remove the front wheel, remove the tubes from the triple clamps, take off/out the top caps & springs, and tip them upside down to dump out the old oil ....stroking them a few times while inverted to coax out the last bits of old oil according to the manual. Bugger! Not the least bit handy. Guess a few years away from the bikes & I kind of missed the evolution of some of this stuff. Crap. Changing fork oil used to be a kind of quicky task. Oh well. Hey....maybe, if I remove the bars, take out the fork springs, put the caps back on...I can just flip the whole bike upside down. Then take the fork caps off, dump the oil while while the whole bike is inverted, then ....naw, I'd get dirt on my seat ....guess I'll just put the beast on stand and take the fork tubes out, etc.
  7. NewZooki

    7/8" Bar Height Challenge

    Definately will do! A soon as I receive the risers in the mail & get them & the bars mounted. Feedback to follow.
  8. NewZooki

    Need a Hotcam

    Thanks for making me look harder Neil! I found the thread Eddie's cam specs were listed in. Shoved in below again, for increased exposure. The goods are in the middle of page 2 in this thread. E cams on an S? It's from Jan/06 so the numbers will all still be relevant. There is other useful cam discussion in there as well regarding auto decomp & and a very handy reference to cam use by OSITECH who runs a stock "E" intake with a stock "S" exhaust for maxi bottom end (thanks OSI). It's all worth a read if you haven't seen it (including the tomfoolery regarding buying cheap from ebay or elsewhere.....hope for us thin wallet types)
  9. NewZooki

    Need a Hotcam

    Hi All! Thanks for the feedback. I have been doing homework since receiving all this. However, I am having a difficult time finding real numbers that will help me understand the specific differences between my stock "S" cams, the stock "E" cams, and the Hotcams Stage 1 & 2 pieces. I finally got my Suzuki shop manual today and immediately flipped to the cam specification page only to find that Suzuki provides a completely different number than Hotcams for rating the amount of...cam action being provided. Suzuki uses cam lobe height (36.515mm intake / 35.815mm exhaust using the mid-point of their tolerance range). I assume this measurement is from shaft center line. The Suzuki manual specs. provide no duration info which is a kind of important number for comparison to other cams. My dealer is digging up the "E" model numbers from Suzuki so I'll be able to compare the height difference to my "S" cam, but that's about all. Hotcams provides the "lift" number indicating how far the valve is moved off the seat by the cam lobe (Stage 1 = 9.1mm lift / 238 deg duration; Stage 2 = 9.6mm lift / 243 deg duration ......... these are all listed as being the same for intake & exhaust). I know I can blindly just go and get the cams and they will work, but I'd really like to know what I'm putting in there. Having comparable numbers would also help the choice of going with an "E" exhaust (as Hotcams themselves recommend for trail action) or perhaps Hotcams on both sides. Duration numbers will also play an important role in consideration of fine tuning when degreeing the cams. Has anyone done further work to determine the lift/duration of the stock Suzuki cams..or, dug up the cam lobe height numbers from Hotcams? Even if I end up just intalling everyting to manufactuerer or other recommended settings, I still wanna know exactly what it is I'm installing relative to what I have in there in stock condition. One way or another, I'm going to find out...before I do any purchasing!
  10. NewZooki

    DRZ crankcase vent

    I was going to ask this very same question (being a newbie to the 4-stroke thing overall and just getting well into all the little tuning tweaks on my new "S")....then my site search turned up this info. The minimal gain in access space for the occasional carb work (which is all I was really thinking about) is not a worthwhile trade for the loss of the real job this little breather box is doing. It's well tucked away and not a weight consideration, so I'm going to leave it right where it is to continue doing it's necessary oil-mist catch & return job. Thanks for the enlightenment.
  11. NewZooki

    7/8" Bar Height Challenge

    Great stuff & thanks to all who answered! Nothing like asking the folks who have already been there. As I type this, my new 1.5" straight risers are already on their way to me from barrisersonline. Since these handy widgets will give me 1.5 inches in the desired vertical direction, I think I'll stick with the Renthal CR Hi bars I already have and see how those feel nestled into these new tall cups. I like to stand a lot too. and the stock bar height was putting a major kink in my natural crafty technique. Thanks for sharing guys!!
  12. NewZooki

    7/8" Bar Height Challenge

    Hey Crew! I have a nice new set of Renthal CR-Hi bars to whip onto my new DRZ400-S. Several of the guys in my local shop are using these and like them. My main difficulty, though, is bar height. The stockers are quite a bit to low for me (I'm 6'3" and particularly tall in the torso). I bought them believing they would be higher but they are pretty much the same height as the stockers. I have scoured the TT store and did not find any help to get 7/8" size bars significantly higher. Did find other bars (even Renthals) that have about 3/4" more bend height. That is marginal for the amount vertical change I am seeking but these all seem to also come with more sweep and/or rise too....and I would actually prefer less of both of those dimensions already if I had the choice (from the Renthal CR-Hi bars). The only other obvious bar lift assitance I saw are the 1 1/16" adaptors that can be installed in the stock clamps to allow mounting of tapered bars. According to catalogue info, these this will lift the bars about an inch. This would be great, but then I am swapping to the tapered bars. I would prefer to stick with the 7/8" bars (yeah...I can hear the howling). Is there any known bar clamp spacer or sets of taller clamps that can be purchased to move my bars vertically a significant amount? Or, am I stuck with reading the bend specs on every handbar made to try and find a taller bar with the flat rise/sweep (or less) of the Renthal CR-Hi bars I already have in-hand? Or, am I going to have to change to tapered bars just so I can get those adaptors that will make the desired vertical move? Any tall DRZ riders out there who have gone through this? Thanks!
  13. NewZooki

    Need a Hotcam

    Ahh....yet another performance improvement angle that had not occured to me. Anyone happen to have the "S" & "E"" cam specs? (lift, duration, timing) It would be nice to know, before pursuing this option, whether it will make enough difference to bother with. Will "E" cams provide a worthwhile hop-up for the work involved? In my case that would also include swappping in the "E" base gasket as I already have that piece in-hand waiting. I spent quite a bit of time on the web just now looking for these specs but came up empty......does the Suzuki shop manual list these cam specs?
  14. NewZooki

    Need a Hotcam

    Hey Crew! The only tidbit that is still outstanding, that I need to make my new "S" snarl (at least as far as I'm taking this season)....is one of those nice little Hotcam valve lifter upper-downers. Is anyone thinking about stepping away from ownership of a used but still good DRZ400 Hotcam intake shaft? I would prefer a Stage 1 intake, but since there is relatively little difference between the two, I will also certainly latch onto a Hotcams Stage 2 if one of those is offered and there are no Stage 1s held out in my direction. I know "Zigman" was selling one a couple weeks ago, but I was still learning then. Didn't know I wanted one yet when his cam was up for grabs. Any others out there looking for a warm and cozy, properely shimmed, fresh oil bathed head to move into???? If not, I may have to.....shudder.....buy a new one. (buying all these upgrades for my new scooter is turning me into a used part scrounging cheapskate).
  15. NewZooki

    Sell Me Your Old "E" Pipe & Silencer

    Hi All! As promised, here is my feedback re: moola expended to acquire a used stock "E" pipe. As indicated by beemerwolf above, I was already looking at those two pipes on Ebay. One barely used, one actually new from an '04 being parted out. I bid on both, but because I'm a dork and was not paying attention, I missed the end of the bidding period and pipe #1 sold to the only other bidder for $51. Pipe #2 had several bidders and I ended up taking it for $121.06. So there you go. Apparently the price ranges is somewhere between those two. If I mangle my new pipe (now in the mail), I'll start bugging you all again. Onward!!