zeppelin69

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About zeppelin69

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    TT Newbie

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    Louisiana
  1. thanks for the input guys. i will defiently use the suggestions in my next video and post it up here when it is done. that may be a few months for now though =/..
  2. i spent alot of time editing this video, but i was hoping you guys could give me some tips on how to make my next one better... <embed style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=-3707546676975078106&hl=en" flashvars=""> </embed> EDIT: well here is the lin to my vid on google since i see embeded code isnt allowed on here, please leave comments on what you think about the video http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3707546676975078106&q=cravens&hl=en
  3. if you already have the jetting dialed in for the most part (you know your pilot, needle and main are good) then all you need to do is adjust your fuel screw
  4. in the center of the sproket there are these splines that mate up with the splines on the shaft coming out of the motor, this prevents the sproket from moving.
  5. yeah i dont see alot of them in the paper over here so im thinkin like 25 now, i dont wanna charge much more than that though cause i would kinda feel like im robbing the guy haha. thanks for the replies keep them comin
  6. i about to sell my '01 and i was just wondering what yall thought i could get for it. it is all stock except for and auto decompretion hotcam, uni air filter and some protapers and probably a few little thing im forgeting about, but anyway it is in good condition very low mileage for an 01 and meticulously maintained. i was thinkin about 2200, but i wanted yalls opinion on it first before i put it in the paper. thanks.
  7. if you mean the key, then yeah it is unpluged and it has a beautiful blue spark... i know... its weird
  8. i can honestly say that i have changed the plugs at least 10 times, i am going to clean the carb one more time just to make sure, but so far there has not been one clogged jet or any blocked holes. after awhile of tring to kick it over it does sometime flood though so i know it is getting gas. i have also tried using starter fluid but i cannot get the dang thing to fire. i have tried bump starting and have had no luck every now and then though after i push for at least 200 feet it does start to pop a little and then just stop making noise all together. this thing has me stumped. thank for the ideas so far though guys, i appreciate all of the help.
  9. naaw its my little brothers old bike that we are trting to sell, i ride a 250f
  10. anyone else have any idea what could posible be wrong with this thing?
  11. yes i cleaned EVERY little jet and passage that i could find.
  12. i changed the gas out with some fresh stuff, it has been sitting for atleast a year, maybe a year and a half. and it is an 02 so i think it hac a cdi... i really dont know much about these bikes lol.
  13. well i have been tring to get this thing going again so that i could sell it, but i haven't had any luck so far. i have cleaned the carb atleast 20 times, the airfliter is brand new, as well as the spark plug. it is getting spark and fuel, and it has compression. so it has everything it needs but i still cant get it to fire, is it posible that the ignition timing is off? thanks.
  14. sorry about the pictures not working, maybe this ill work.
  15. im a newbie on here, but i thought i'd make my first post count so... If you are a more experience wrench you can skip the first two paragraphs, but if you are a newbie to working on your own bike read on to learn what jetting is. When someone says jets they are referring to brass screws located in your carburetor that are used to regulate fuel flow. Most bikes have two jets, a pilot jet, the smaller jet that affects your bike at idol, and a main jet, the larger jet that is located in the center of your carb, and controls fuel delivery from 3/4 to WOT (wide open throttle). The reason most people change out their jets is because they have added modifications to their bike, like exhaust pipes and air filters. Mods like these allow the bike to flow more air, and the motor will need more fuel to go with the air to run properly. If larger jets are not added, the motor may bog under load, sputter when you rev your motor out, or backfire when you let off of the gas. Some bikes are also affected by weather so much that it is beneficial to change jets according to temperature, humidity, and elevation Okay so the first you need to do to change out your jets is remove your carburetor. You will usually need to take off your plastics and gas tank to get to it . After you have your carb off of your bike, remove the screws holding on the float bowl. (The float bowl is on the bottom of the carburetor and usually held on by four screws.) After you take the bowl off you can remove the main and pilot jets to figure out what sizes you have. (The main jet is in the center and the pilot is off to the side.) Once you get your jet sizes you can either go to your local motor cycle shop and buy the jets individually, or you can order a "jet kit" online which will come with a variety of sizes that will fit you application. If you decide to get it from you dealer, you should probably buy the next five sizes bigger in main jets, and one size bigger pilot. (I personally prefer to buy the individually because it is usually cheaper.) To decide which jets you bike needs its best to use a trial and error method. Start with the next largest main from stock, and continue to bump the sizes until you feel some power loss at WOT, then go back down on size. Most bikes don’t need a larger pilot unless you live in California, somewhere with a very cold climate, a low elevation, or you have extensive Mods on you bike. Even then you usually dot need to go much bigger than one size larger than stock. Diagnosing jetting is a little tricky; most people use the spark plug test. To do the spark plug test you need to have a fresh spark plug in you bike right after you change jetting and run the same plug for at least 5 hours, this will give you the best reading. Most people will tell you that your jetting is perfect if your plug is a light tan color. If you plug is wet or has soot then you are running too rich. (Too big of a main jet). If your plug is white or light gray you are too lean. (Too small of a main jet.) Of course if you want to get your jetting spot on you can get an air/fuel ratio meter to check the ratio of gas to air coming out of your exhaust. The ideal ratio is 13:1. Okay, your carburetor has a "needle" located on your slide. The needle adjusts the amount of fuel that is allowed to flow through the main jet at different throttle positions. To adjust your needle, remove the cap or cover on top of your carb that holds the throttle cable in. After you pull out the throttle cable and slide, you will see a needle sticking out from the bottom of the slide. When you remove it from the slide you will see a circlip in a notch on the top of the needle. To make the bike richer, you can lower the clip on the needle, which actually raises the needle in the carb. If you want to lean it out you just need to do the opposite. The needle is good for fine tuning only. You will still need to have the correct size main jet for your quad to run right. Your carburetor will either have an air or fuel screw, fuel screws are located in the front of a carb and airscrews can actually be on either side but they are usually on the back. They (depending on which type they are) either regulate the amount of air or fuel that is allowed to mix. With a fuel screw you loosen the screw for a richer mix, or tighten it for a leaner one. It is the opposite with an airscrew, you want to tighten it for a richer mix, or loosen it for a leaner one. The air/fuel screw will allow for minor adjustments to compensate for weather or altitude changes, as well as idling and fixing the pesky backfire that you can never seem to get rid of on a modded bike. Here is a quick tip for dealing with the air/fuel screw, grab a coat hanger and cut a piece off of it about an inch and a half, to two inches long. Take the cut section to your bench grinder and grind one end of it to make it look like the end of a screwdriver. Then bend it into an "L", you can use this to adjust your air or fuel screw with out taking your carb off of your bike. I bring mine with me on rides so that I can adjust my bike for elevation changes or if it starts backfiring on the go. I got this from another thread, but I thought it would be useful here. It is a main jet size conversion chart. Width------Kehein # -- DynoJets # -- Mikuni # 0,0350---- 92,5--------- 92----------- 86,3 0,0360---- 95----------- 94----------- 88,1 0,0370---- 97,5--------- 96----------- 90,0 0,0380---- 100---------- 98----------- 91,9 0,0390---- 102,5------- 100---------- 93,8 0,0400---- 105--------- 102---------- 95,6 0,0410---- 107,5------- 104---------- 97,5 0,0420---- 110--------- 106---------- 99,4 0,0430---- 112,5------- 108--------- 101,3 0,0440---- 115--------- 110--------- 103,1 0,0450---- 117,5------- 112--------- 105,0 0,0460---- 120--------- 114--------- 106,9 0,0470---- 122,5------- 116--------- 108,8 0,0480---- 125--------- 118--------- 110,6 0,0490---- 127,5------- 120--------- 112,5 0,0500---- 130--------- 122--------- 114,4 0,0510---- 132,5------- 124--------- 116,3 0,0520---- 135--------- 126--------- 118,1 0,0530---- 137,5------- 128--------- 120,0 0,0540---- 140--------- 130--------- 121,9 0,0550---- 142,5------- 132--------- 123,8 0,0560---- 145--------- 134--------- 125,6 0,0570---- 147,5------- 136--------- 127,5 0,0580---- 150--------- 138--------- 129,4 0,0590---- 152,5------- 140--------- 131,3 0,0600---- 155--------- 142--------- 133,1 0,0610---- 157,5------- 144--------- 135,0 0,0620---- 160--------- 146--------- 136,9 0,0630---- 162,5------- 148--------- 138,8 0,0640---- 165--------- 150--------- 140,6 0,0650---- 167,5------- 152--------- 142,5 0,0660---- 170--------- 154--------- 144,4 0,0670---- 172,5------- 156--------- 146,3 0,0680---- 175--------- 158--------- 148,1 0,0690---- 177,5------- 160--------- 150,0 0,0700---- 180--------- 162--------- 151,9 0,0710---- 182,5------- 164--------- 153,8 0,0720---- 185--------- 166--------- 155,6 0,0730---- 187,5------- 168--------- 157,5 0,0740---- 190--------- 170--------- 159,4 0,0750---- 192,5------- 172--------- 161,3 0,0760---- 195--------- 174--------- 163,1 0,0770---- 197,5------- 176--------- 165,0 0,0780---- 200--------- 178--------- 166,9 0,0790---- 202,5------- 180--------- 168,8 0,0800---- 205--------- 182--------- 170,6 0,0810---- 207,5------- 184--------- 172,5 0,0820---- 210--------- 186--------- 174,4 0,0830---- 212,5------- 188--------- 176,3 0,0840---- 215--------- 190--------- 178,1 0,0850---- 217,5------- 192--------- 180,0 0,0860---- 220--------- 194--------- 181,9 0,0870---- 222,5------- 196--------- 183,7 0,0880---- 225--------- 198--------- 185,6 0,0890---- 227,5------- 200--------- 187,5 I thought I would help y'all out with some spark plug pictures. If your plug looks like this, you are too lean. Note that in this picture it looks almost new, but yours may be ashy, or slightly lighter in color than this. zeppelin has attached this image: If your plug looks like this, you are too rich. Your plug may also be wet though. zeppelin has attached this image: If it looks like this, your spot on. Tan is perfect, it should almost be the color of card board, like I said though, these plugs look pretty new so your plug's colors maybe be a little more extreme. zeppelin has attached this image: