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About Duggaz

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  1. You're actually wrong my friend... If you remember physics at school, you would remember learning about kinematics, acceleration, velocity, gravity etc. That cliff looks about 75m high, and using the laws of physics we know that: distance (d) = 0.5*acceleration(a)*time(t) squared (acceleration being gravity at 9.81 m/s/s) therefore, after some transposition of formla, time (t) taken to hit the ground below = t = square root of (2*75/9.81) =3.91 seconds calculating velocity (v) at impact, v = a*t v = 9.81*3.91 = 38.36 m/s converting to mph (there are 1609.3 metres in a mile and 3600 seconds in an hour)... 38.36*(3600/1609.3) = 85.8 mph Evidently that is not 96 mph
  2. My speedo must be telling lies then. Last weekend I let it rip on a straight road and it read 155 km/h. It must need calibrating or something. Either way, the 13:48 is no good. Thanks everyone for your sound advice. I haven't fully decided which ratio I'll go with yet but the factory 13:52 sounds good, and so does 12:51, although perhaps slightly too low. The 12/52 sounds a bit too low geared. Also, one of the gears should have an odd number of teeth and the other should have an even number of teeth to ensure even wear of the chain and sprockets. So what do you reckon 13:52 or 12:51???
  3. I've recently purchased a 2003 WR250F, and have completed the Grey wire mod without really noticing any real difference, apart from slightly more top end snap. This may be because the gearing is totally inadequate. Its got a 13 tooth front sprocket with a 48 tooth rear sprocket. The gearing is understandably far too tall. I frequently ride technical, tight sections through forrest and the occasional moto-cross track. On the really tight sections, I often find 1st too low and 2nd too high, similarly, sometimes 2nd is too low and 3rd too high. The bike's current top speed in a straight line is 155km/h (96 mph) , which is evidently too fast (not bad for supermotard though!!). Ideally (and if at all possible), I'd like the bike to be really "snappy" and pull wheelies in 1st, 2nd and 3rd without slipping the clutch, giving me good available power when needed. Before I splash out on a new chain and sprockets I would like to make sure I'm on the right ratio for the terrain I ride. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Duggaz:thumbsup:
  4. Cheers, I did that but its the same diagram as the one in my manual. It must have been re-wired to comply with Australian road riding requirements as my WR has headlight, main beam, rear tail light, brake light, indicators front and rear, reg plate light and a horn. The service manual wiring diagram only illustrates a head light and tail light (no brake light, indicators, a different odometer, no reg plate light or horn). I'm now in the process of painstakingly following the wires and producing my own wiring diagram to identify the fault. Thanks anyway
  5. I recently purchased a 2nd hand 2003 WR250F. The guy who had the bike before me seems to have made a real hash of the wiring for the lights, and the service manual I bought with the bike is for a 2001 WR250F (I think?). The wiring diagram I've got is definitely not for my bike. If anyone could scan and email the wiring diagram for a 2003 WR250F it would be gratly appreciated!!! email: pauldugdale@lycos.co.uk Many thanks, Duggaz