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    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

Koof

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About Koof

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Ontario
  • Interests
    Beer, beer, beer, b-b-b, beer, beer, beer, beer and riding...motorcycles
  1. I'm picking up my new to me '06 TC250 tonight and was wondering if this potential issue affects the 250 as well as the 450? If my answer has already been posted, well that there proves I am an idiot, cause I read every reply in this post...
  2. I'm without words... as a father of two little ones, watching your tribute to your daughter tore my heart out. My DEEPEST sympathies...
  3. I'm also looking at getting a '00 WR400 and was wondering if the problem with the breather tube sucking sand and water affects the 400's as well or is it only the newer 450's?? Thought this might be an appropriate thread to ask this question... Thanks
  4. I've owned a bunch of bikes in the past...mostly 2T YZ's and LOVED them but am looking at getting a '00 WR400. It's the right price, sounds like what I've been looking for and believe me I've looked at everything from red to green to yellow (not Austrian or Italian though... can't justify the mula). My only question for you wise blue-blooded riders is: Should I try to pry the wallet open a bit more and invest in a 426 or even a 450 (do the improvements/changes warrant it) or is a well maintained 400 not far off the mark? Cheers
  5. Now that helps to explain things, thanks Noble
  6. The motor was only run for 3 minutes...I don't think the oil was even warm to the touch yet. It didn't have foam, only bubbles and A LOT of them.
  7. AHAA! I've come to one conclusion...I don't like Spectro 4 (the petrol. based one). It bubbles like crazy ! I just installed the mcct, adjusted the tappet shims and changed the oil (previously using Castrol 4 Stroke - motorcycles...not impressed either) to Spectro 4 and upon inspection of the oil level...the DIPstick is covered in bubbles. Never had that happen with the Castrol, or did I? Ahh, what to do, what to do? Maybe I can get some slightly used oil from McDonald's... The search is stiiiiiiiiiiill on
  8. First I appoligize for yet ANOTHER oil thread, but this ones is simple, I hope. I've got an '02 DRZ 400E, the manual says only use "SF or SG" rated oils so I've been running Castrol 4 stroke because it's rated "SG", not because I like its performance. I bought, but haven't used yet, Spectro 4 as it was highly recommended to me, which is rated "SL". Is this ok to use knowing the different API standard? Just in case I decide to go synthetic....what is the procedure (if any) to switch from petroleum based to synthetic oil? Do you run the same filter? Thanks (I hope I didn't start another debate... )
  9. Thanks for the info guys! Cheers
  10. Does anyone know what the clearance spec. is for the intake/exhaust valves on an '02 DRZ 400E, I recently heard ticking and thought it might be an idea to check it at the same time I install my spanky-new-mcct. Thanks, Steve
  11. It does sound easier, but never having had a 4 stroke motor apart before (ex-2 stroke motocrosser) I'm concerned about not having enough tension on the chain and it being able to throw things out of time enough to cause damage??? (over cautious or valid concern?)
  12. Are you referring to the threaded plug in the center of the generator cover? The instructions I'm using are the ones posted on this website, for the TT mcct, they are as follows... Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Instructions 1. Remove your stock tensioner and thoroughly clean the mounting surface area on the engine. (Do not start your engine while the tensioner is removed.) 2. Remove the crank bolt access cover. 3. Completely back out the adjusting bolt and sealing o-ring on the new tensioner before installation. 4. Lightly coat the large o-ring with oil, install the new tensioner and tighten the mounting bolts to 7 ft-lbs (84 inch-lbs). 5. Finger tighten the adjuster bolt while turning the crank shaft by hand. At certain points during the engine’s rotation, you will feel the adjuster bolt tighten taking up slack in the chain. DO NOT force the adjuster bolt. Just let a steady finger tightening tension take up the slack as you rotate the crank. 6. Once the slack has been completely taken up, back off the adjuster bolt 1/4 turn. 7. Slide the o-ring down the adjuster bolt threads to its sealing position and tighten down the jam nut while holding the adjuster bolt in place. (Make sure the adjuster bolt does not turn when tightening the jam nut.)
  13. I bought a manual cam chain tensioner for my DRZ 400E and the instructions say to remove the "crank bolt access cover" and manually turn the crank by hand while gently screwing in the adjusting bolt on the mcct. Simple right? Wrong, not if you're not sure which is the crank bolt access cover !! Secondly, which direction (cw or ccw) should the crank be rotated to proper adjust the tensioner? Thanks in advance!
  14. I've got an '02 DRZ 400E and still run the oem auto cam chain tensioner. Every now and again I can here the rattle of the cam chain and wonder if it is a common sound or a failing spring? I realize the enormous damage that would result if the tensioner completely fails and that's the reason for this post. I'm thinking I might opt for the TT manual tensioner - fail free I assume? Anyone have any light to shed on this subject, cause right now it's so dark I can't even find my beer!