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Megalon2k

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About Megalon2k

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    United Kingdom
  1. Other than having to adjust the handlebar position. No. Doesn't seem to need any adjustment other than that. Ill post some pics of the bike in my Garage soon so you can see what it looks like. The link to the pic in the previous is now working.
  2. Ok we have now modified the travel on the rear suspension. Raising the seat height from 33inches to 35inches approx (i did measure it, i think it might have been slightly more than 35 but i cant remember exactly). This bike is now nearly as tall as my WR! We took ages looking at the geometry of the rear suspension to see what we could change to make it higher. For ages we toyed with the idea of creating a bracket at the top of the rear shock. But abandonded that idead. Instead we modified the lower suspension linkage. Here is a pic of what we did. I've highlighted the bracket that we welded on. The lower of the two highlighted holes is the position of the old shock mounting and the top one the new mounting. As a result of this mod we also had to extend the side stand by about 3-4 inches otherwise the bike just fell over. We have also put a set of nobblies on this bike and it now looks like a proper bike that is ready for doing some off roading. PS: We have noticed that some play has appeared in the rear wheel bearing. We have probably done about 100 miles on this bike now.
  3. Then look no futher. I've only taken a look at the honda's and yams but there seems to be loads of years and loads of bikes http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_select.asp?vcc=Motorcycles#FicheSelection
  4. My dad just bought a Shineray GY200E that i put together on saturday. It was my intention to document all that happened to the bike, from opening to running but, hey. Bearing in mind that the bike was bought to only be used off road, mainly as a green laner. What we did do howerer is: 1) took off the side stand cutout switch 2) removed indicators parcel rack and pillion pegs 3) removed rear lights/license plate mount 4) ground away the side stand stop so that, when up, its ground clearence is greater 5) drilled holes in side panels so that the seat can be removed without take the panels off. 6) dropped a magnet in the oil filter (helps to pick up any ferous particles and keep them out of your gearbox) Things that we are gonna do: 1) remount the battery to a more sensible place 2) increase the amount of travel on the rear suspension 3) change the front rear sprokets (although the current rear is quite large) 4) Squeeze a bit more power out of the engine?? 5) mount sideways pointing lights to illuminate 180/270 degrees (these will probably be on a seperate switch NB:Just as a note, after putting it together and riding it (this is after we realised its packaged with the rear brake on) i have to say, this is a lot of bike for the money (£600). Its light, not to bad on power (although im used to a WR400) and handles well. As long as your not pulling misty flips on it and you maintain it well i cant see any reason why this bike would break. Its build standard seems to be ok. just found this site, could be useful as these bikes seem to be honda although im not 100% convinced yet. http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?category=Motorcycles EDIT: I wasn't sure about the rear sproket size on this model, but i counted it the other day 55! seems quite high to me. anyone else got sproket this large on there GY?
  5. I think the problem with all the discussion here is that some ppl, Who are maybe not so experienced (myself included, im no downhill junkie by any means), consider something that you could happily turn your engine off for and go down without brakes as steep. I could be argued, surly, that if you can go down it like that then its not that steep? What is steep?
  6. So going down hill. I've read all the post here. well most of them, the ones that start "what i do is open her up and close my eyes..... " i skipped. A popular suggestion seems to be get your weight back, this i dont really have a proplem with, however, surly there are different ways of doing this. I did some diagrams : D to illustrate a proplem im currently musing over. http://www.jungiefilms.co.uk/images/downhill_cogs.jpg here i am going down a hill on my bike. Position 1, im sure we are all familiar with. I've marked on the diagram the COG for bother the bike (red) and the rider (green) Now, the rider in pos 1 has his weight right back, but surly any upward motion at point A would cause the fender to hit him in the ass (point and send him forward (point C) possibly loosing control. Surly this is not the best way to dessend (unless you have your eyes closed and your throttle open ). However both COG's are way back, no fear of them going over the point of no return (front spindle). But isn't pos 2 much better? ok so rider COG is more forward (as long as it doesn't go over the front spindle it shouldn't be a problem right?), which would mean it might seam that your goona go over the handle bars. But at least you stand more of a change of remaining in control. What of other riding postures? Riding the tank for example? http://www.jungiefilms.co.uk/images/downhill_cogs3.jpg Ok, puts you in a seated position but still in more control than pos 1. Your thoughts please
  7. If you really think about it. When pro MXers are in a corner, they normally are on their ass with one foot out. Why? i dont know cause relitivly new to MXing. but they do it.