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empyreal100

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About empyreal100

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Horses, Skiing, Jet Skiing.
  1. empyreal100

    OEM Parts Finder?

    Can you provide a link to an online source for searching diagrams for part #'s & pricing, and/or actually buying OEM Husvarna parts (recent model years)? I've searched and searched without results. Thanks.
  2. empyreal100

    StowX Fender Bag on Husqy

    Has anyone tried to mount one of the rigid StowX fender boxes on a 2006 or so Husqy? The company website says that each model is specifically made to fit a particular fender, eg KTM, Kawa, etc. but no Husqys listed (and no phone number or address for company, either!). I wonder which model for front fender would fit (given our unusual fender support shape), and if the sole model for rear fender would fit. Thanks.
  3. Yes, I agree Marko. Clearly ultimate tire choice is a matter of personal testing, skill, and preference. There is a definite engineering schema, however, to the design & manufacturing choices made. It would be interesting to understand what these design factors are and why. Unfortunately, I could not find a link to anything in any depth so am still hoping someone else can. Thanks.
  4. Today I was also informed, offline, that Soft Terrain tires tend to chunk and tear knobs in rocks and on pavement specifically because they have hard rubber compounds. It seems the hard rubber, which better penetrates soft ground and acts like stiff little paddles, does not flex much, so it tears instead when subjected to great stress. An additional benefit of the hard rubber in Soft Terrain tires is that the tires will last forever if truly used in soft terrain only. I have experienced this in practice -- my Soft Terrain tires' knobs always look like new (long & sharp edges) until they chunk & tear. Conversely, the softer rubber in Hard Terrain tires, which better grips hard surfaces, tends to flex to absorb stresses rather than tear. Thus is survives better in rocks, pavement, and hardpack by bending instead of tearing. This explains why softer rubber tires can last longer than hard rubber tires in offroad conditions -- the exact opposite of the case in street tires (which have no knobs to tear). Any additional insight would be appreciated.
  5. It is mind boggling that the terms "hard terrain" and "soft terrain" are used throughout the tire industry and this forum, yet I have yet to find reliable definitions of these terms. The Dunlop website gives some vague description stating that Hard Terrain tires generally have softer rubber compounds, and vice versa. The other manufacterers don't even try to describe these terms. It is clear that sand and loam are "soft terrain," and hardpack earth and pavement are "hard terrain." But in SoCal offroad, other than sand washes such clear-cut situations are rare: What about loose rocks & gravel? Endless "trails" of large sharp rocks (like sections in Big Bear Lake)? Hardpack covered with light layer of sand/silt? Knowing the difference in tire construction & compound would help one make a better decision. For example: What do you "give up" by selecting, say, an Intermediate tire over a Soft Terrain tire, and vice versa? I have been running Maxxis SI in the front (on a 4-stoke 250) with great traction, wear resistance, and sand stability, but with much side-knob tearing when in rock gardens. If, for example, I went to the IT would I loose or gain grip, and where? Would I lose or gain tire life in (i) wear and (ii) knob tearing? Does carcass get stiffer (less grip) while rubber compound get softer (more grip?). Etc. If anyone has a detailed, definitive resource, or really knows this info in detail, please post. Thanks.
  6. empyreal100

    TE250 Tranny annoyances

    For what it's worth, I have never noticed a shifting problem of any sort, and I have 3300 hard miles on it. I change oil every 400 miles or so (3-4 days riding) using Spectro regular petroleum 10w50. At 400 miles it looks like sludge and is down almost 1/2 liter. However, I wish 6th gear was geared much higher (e.g. for pavement & desert use). I'd pay $800 for that!
  7. empyreal100

    California Husky owners...

    Uptite Husqvarna (George Erl) in Santa Ana, near Irvine. Having George work on your bike is a dream come true. I'm never going back to a larger dealership with 24 year old kids doing by-the-book parts replacements only. But I think he generally only works on bikes if he sold them to you. Search this forum for posts about this dealership -- there must be a hundred of them.
  8. empyreal100

    Zip ties and flats

    I am no Gunga Din, but I do carry all the little bits that make changing a tire in the field easier: - tiny tube of lube. Wet the bead to make cranking it on & off the rim 50% easier. Add lube a 2nd time during process if it dries out. This works miracles. - tiny bottle of talcum powder. Makes it easy to slide the tube to get the valve lined up with the hole. Use lots of it. - I carry a regular (thin) front tube on the trail, not a HD one, both to save weight and to make it easier to replace tube without taking tire from the rim. (I carry a patch kit in case one gets a 2nd flat) - Motion Pro Bead Buddy -- weighs 1 oz, and keeps bead near the center of the rim so you don't have to fight to crank the tire back on. Finally, why bother replacing a tube in the garage. Take it to the shop and let them deal with it, since you have to go there to buy the new tube anyway. Anthony Southern California
  9. empyreal100

    Zip ties and flats

    Supporting the bike is the easy part. Just put the kickstand down, and prop a stick under the engine case at an angle to the other side (kind of like having another kickstand made of stick on the other side). This is the standard technique and works great so long as you take the time to find the RIGHT sized stick. It works just like a center stand and you can remove the rear wheel. Changing a tube is not hard (since you don't have to take the tire off the rim),and only takes maybe 15 minutes even for a dunce like me. Then you get to ride & enjoy for the rest of the day, rather than curse & worry at low speed for the entire (aborted) ride back to your truck. Carrying a tube does suck (1.7 lbs for a standard-weight 21" front), but all the other items combined (3 aluminum spoons, MTB pump, patch kit, talc, lube) weigh under 12 oz. So mount the tube on the bike, and carry the rest in your pack.
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