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crail

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About crail

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Indiana
  • Interests
    flattrack
  1. . Lighten up. I was just having a little fun (that's what the , , and , were for--to denote humor)and venting a little about the oversimplification of the oil topic. . Actually, I haven't seen much "technical knowledge" (and believe me, I know it when I see it) in these oil threads, just a lot of "i run this, don't run that", no real test data showing the other oils "shearing out". I look at 45 to 50 used oil samples a day, so I would be genuinely interested in some real "technical knowledge" backed up by data. Otherwise, it's pretty much subjective opinion based on less than scientific tests. Not that there's anything wrong with opinions--we've all got 'em and will all continue to have them--but recognize that, without data to back them up, they are nothing more.
  2. Soooo, it seems that the numbers don't really mean anything, just the letters! That settles it, i'm using Rotella 15-40 in everything from here on out. All my other oils are up for sale. Anybody want to by some: WD40, 10W30, 10W40, Chain Lube, Cable lube, ATF, 5W30, 0W20, 85W140, 90, 20W50, 80W90, HD30, EP1, EP2? All are for sale now, and, thanks to the incredible technical threads here, i've got 4 empty shelves in my shop now. I can't believe I've stocked all these lubricants for so long, when the answer was right there the whole time! There is just one thing I don't quite understand yet: why, when visocosity is off on my used oil samples, why the hell does wear metal content (iron, chrome, aluminum, etc) increase? I know those oil rating numbers don't mean anything, so is going on?
  3. crail

    Shell Rotella T

    someone finally said it! just like these Rotella threads???
  4. if you have had good results with a synthetic and are just looking for a more available syn oil, check out mobil1 10w40 syn fourstroke motorcycle oil. pretty good stuff, readily available at our local auto parts chains, but still about $7/quart. while both syn and "dino" oil get dirty long before they break down, and both need to be changed as a result, the syn oils still provide better protection in thermal extremes. if you never run your bike a little hotter than you should, don't start it in cold weather, etc., then a GOOD "dino" oil will provide comparable lubrication. the synthetic oils shine in the thermal extreme area. myself, i beat my sh** pretty hard, idle way too long waiting to pull on to the track, etc, so i stick with synthetic. jmho!
  5. crail

    piston recommendations

    hell, i haven't seen a bad one yet (and i always measure any piston i install, as i record skirt clearances in the build record)! Wiseco isn't the only piston i'll use, but i personally have measured no variation between advertised and actual dimensions.
  6. crail

    piston recommendations

    FWIW, just installed a Wiseco 13.5:1, clearance was fine. (.002", just like they said)
  7. I've seen a lot of posts trashing Kibblewhite valves and spring kits. Several people have suggested that they have new valves and/or spring kits that they have purchased, but are now trying to return because of everything they are hearing on this site about the products. If anyone has NEW Kibblewhite SS valves or spring kits for CRF450R's that they don't feel comfortable running and are unable to return (due to length of time since purchase, etc), I'll be willing to buy them (at a discounted price). You won't get all your money back, but, at least they won't be sitting in the back of your cabinet gathering dust. I've had great success with them, and would be willing to "stock up" on a few sets if the price is right. Standard or oversize valves are o.k., as we have motors running both. Just let me know what you've got and what you want to get back out of it! reply, pm, or email:pcrail@suscom.net
  8. crail

    Twin Pipe!

    if you could mount it on a DRZ, would it "DRool" better?
  9. crail

    Where to buy Kibblewhite Valves

    I'm not sure how the Kibblewhite horror stories got started, but they are spreading like wildfire! I think you may be referring to RHC. From what I know of Ron, he is a pretty stand-up guy, who does sell Ferrea valves, along with his own cam grinds (i believe they are his grind, manufactured by WEB cams). He has a good product, and believes firmly in what he sells. I haven't personally seen Ron trash-talk Kibblewhite, but a lot of the guys trashing them are jumping over to Ron's products. . I'll stick with kibblewhite as long as I keep having the results I've had in the past!
  10. crail

    Where to buy Kibblewhite Valves

    i checked out the problems over in the DRZ forumn, it sounds like KW really dropped the ball on customer service, and did some real damage to their reputation in this market segment. It's a real shame. I do believe in the quality of there product. I saw several people asking if they could return their brand new KW valves or springs. . If anyone has BRAND NEW KW valves or springs for CRF450Rs that they don't feel comfortable running, and are unable to return, I would be interested in purchasing them. I'm not offering to give you retail for them, as i already get them at dealer price, but if you believe they are junk and don't want to run them, drop me a PM or email and maybe we can work something out to get some of your money back out of them, rather than letting them gather dust in your cabinet.
  11. crail

    Where to buy Kibblewhite Valves

    I've personally had pretty good luck with the kibblewhites (valves and springs), but have heard a lot of people trashing the valves and springs. We've run them in CRF's, Harley's, Triumphs with no failures so far (that we didn't cause). My personal opinion is that any of the valves will have problems if you are spending a lot of time near or at the rev limiter. This problem can be compounded by a heavier valve, and the Kibblewhite stainless is heavy for a stainless, and much heavier than the stock Ti valves. However, SS valves will last much longer, as the SS is much harder than Ti. I have seen failures of Kibblewhite, Ferrea, Honda, etc Valves. I've come to learn that some of these motors that were experiencing the failures were ones that were set up to make peak power very high in the rpm range, and tuned in such a way to limit power loss through the "over-rev" all the way to the rev limiter, which was turned up higher in a couple of instances i am aware of (with aftermarket ignitions). this is just my opinion, but I believe that motors set up in this manner will have a better chance of breaking valves, no matter what brand they are using. . as far as the Kibblewhite springs "sacking out" prematurely, I've noticed that, in the CRF's, the spring installed height is too short "out of the box" when installed in a new honda head with new kibblewhite valves. I've cut the spring pads down to achieve the correct installed height, thereby reducing seat pressure to the manufacturer's recomendation, and had no problems at all so far. I have asked several people who have reported problems with these springs whether they were originally installed at the recommended height, and have yet to get a response. My own personal theory is that these spring kits are just being installed "out of the box" without measuring, running at too low of an installed height, which greatly increases spring tension. i believe this excessive spring tension may be high enough to cause rapid fatigue and loss of spring tension after running. (you know, kind of like when you pull a small spring out too far, and it won't spring back any more) . just my 2 cents worth.
  12. crail

    How often do you change your oil filter?

    interested in selling the AMSOIL?
  13. crail

    Removing cam?

    once you get the snap ring out and get the cam and sprocket-end bearing sliding out of the holder, you can slide the cam out of the bearing at the compression-release end while rotating the cam to a position which will allow the lobes to pass through the hole. It looks like a chinese puzzle, but it's pretty simple once you get the cam moving.
  14. crail

    Twin Pipe!

    Actually, timfurryballs, I could probably buy another CRF for all the loud pipe tickets i've paid on my harleys---in 1987, it was a $15 fine + $110 court cost--- (before I finally wised up and took them down a notch-not back to stock, but enough baffle to shut the neighbors up and keep the cops off my a**). I've also spent a little quality "handcuff time" due to (unspecified) charges stemming from traffic stops resulting from above mentioned loud pipe tickets. America is a free country: you're free to do whatever the hell you want, as long as you're willing to pay the price!!! You can tell all the "tree huggers" to go to hell, and we can all keep riding and racing making all the noise we want, but we will eventually pay the price, which WILL be loss of the right to ride! Is it right? Hell no! But is it reality? Hell yes!
  15. crail

    complete motor dissasembly.

    yzfmxer, i'm no expert on crf's, but i've assembled a couple, and put a LOT of bike motors together. i have never had to pull the cases together with bolts, or "press" the cases together IF everything is properly aligned. a little light oil on shafts and races, along with some careful attention as you start together, should allow everything to slide together, once you get everything started together "true". If it seems to get tight to the point where you have to start forcing it (other than perhaps a VERY LIGHT tap to correct a slight mis-alignment), back up! pull the case you are trying to install back until everything moves freely again, and start over. with at little patience, you should be able to get everything to slide together with a "snug" slip fit. Generally speaking, this is all that should be required. Anything more than that is usually an indication that something is in a bind. The Honda service manual covers the assembly in great detail. if you follow the steps in the manual, you should have no problem at all. Watch for the little symbols that indicate what gets oiled, greased, loctited, etc and follow all the recommended torques, and you should be able to complete the assembly without heating, chilling, beating, pressing, or using bolts to pull any parts together. Invest in the service manual, it will be the best $$$$ you spend on the build, and will guide you through the process with ease.
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