Kye Gunn

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About Kye Gunn

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Arizona
  1. It's more than the tires. In aviation, before accepting a flight,we go through a "go, no go" checklist. Some of the questions apply to off road motorcycle riding. They are: 1. Is the aircraft(motorcycle) capable of the task I'm about to undertake and am I thoroughly familiar with it's limitations?. 2. Are my abilities, knowledge and skill level (level of training and experience) adequate to complete the flight(ride) safely? After an aircraft crash, the NTSB (national transportation safety board) writes a report. Yours would read like this: Rider(pilot) on new and unfamiliar equipment placed himself in a situation exceeding the limitations of his motorcycle resulting in loss of control. Probable causes: Inability to recognize changing conditions and remain within equipment/rider limitations. Lack of rider experience and training. Findings: Rider(pilot) Error. Unfortunately, in the world of off road riding, A large amount of experience comes through the test pilot program; you either scare the crap out of yourself or crash. And from that experience..you gain experience. It's a piss poor way to learn for sure. And in way, you were sucked into the situation. The DRZ looks like a dirtbike. It's easy to forget that it ways 300lbs! And a 300lb. dirtbike has enormous limitations. Especially when traction gets poor or the sand gets deep. Now add street tires to the equation and you double the amount of skill and experience necessary to handle those kinds of situations. The fact that you weren't able to see this coming says a lot. My advise: Even with the knobbies take it easy for awhile.
  2. Use the rimlocks. They will not make your wheels harder to balance. If you're cheap like me, head to your local tire shop and ask for flat-adhesive back 1 gram weights. They come in a strip. I found some at the Wal-mart tire center. Stick you wheel back on the bike without the chain or brake caliper and do not tighten the axle..dont even put the nut on. And your bike has to be level side to side or none of this will work. gently spin the wheel. If it does not turn freely, none of this will work. If the wheel does spin freely, it should stop every single time with the heaviest part of the wheel down...mark this location.....add weight to the opposite side until the spin test results in the wheel stopping and staying put in any location. This will give you a rough static balance. If you choose not to use rimlocks you must allow the valve stem to move freely. How do you do that? Simple: DO NOT reinstall the nut that holds the valve stem to the rim. If your tires do start to slip, you will start to see the valve stem "lean" long before tube failure. Check after every ride. If the stem never leans..Whoopie! If it does, you get to take your tires off again. Have Fun
  3. I left out a couple of steps in my first thread, one of them very important. I didn't think them important at the time but I think they will show some method to my madness. During the first run I left the shim out. The transition from needle to main was smooth and didn't feel any different than stock. The second run I moved the stock,very thin shim located on top of the circlip to a position under the plastic spacer. (I had no shims at the time) Throttle response was noticeably better. I thought I'd keep shimming until things started going backwards. That's when I went and bought washers. Here's the important part: I left the thin stock shim under the spacer and installed 1 hobby washer underneath it. (I'll measure and get the exact thickness later) Throttle response was even better and the test ride confirmed a stronger midrange. Unfortunately, I ran out of time and never kept shimming to failure. I realize that once on the main (wide open) the needle ain't in the picture anymore. That is why I performed the low speed, top gear roll ons. I put the bike in 5th gear at a speed 35-40mph. I'd slowly roll on throttle. The bike pulled smooth and clean; not a hick up anywhere. It was as if the bike had a centrifugal clutch. All I know is that it works and the midrange is much fatter. Shimming the needle is something clubracers did back in the 80's, in the early Dynojet days. I knew people that didn't want to spend the extra money on a DJ kit and shimming worked for them. So, I can't take credit for the idea....Kye
  4. I shouldn't have used the word "difficult" when I was referring to getting more power out of a DRZ. The proper word would be "expensive". I'm just guessing here, please correct my figures, but lets say a ball park amount to make the same power as the RMZ would be about $1900. (Pipe:$400,Bigbore Kit Installed:$700,Cams:$300, Carb:$500). So, now we've got the power, but we still have a near 300 pound motorcycle. And logic would dictate that if you need the power that bad, you bought the wrong motorcycle. It all boils down to the type of riding you do and your experience level in the end. If you have a competition background, ride aggressively and like "Dial-a-wheelie" power and find yourself at the occasional trackday, I'd skip the modified DRZ and head straight for the RMZ. (Note: The only thing I didn't like about my RMZ was the 4 speed transmission.) In AZ at least, making a 4 stroke offroader, street legal, is a piece of cake. I've even seen street legal quads running around town! On the other hand, If you're primarily a daily commuter, have no real experience with higher horsepower motorcycles, don't like kick starting and are pinching pennies at the pump, let your love affair with the DRZ begin. The DRZ is one, fine motorcycle period. That's why I bought one. But, I knew going in, that there would some compromising in the power/weight department (I did it for the kids..long story..) and I'm struggling with that compromise. When I read Ike99 posts, I just had to throw in my 2 cents. I hope I've made myself clear .
  5. The difference in power between the 2 bikes is astronomical!! If you buy the SM, during every ride you'll be looking at your rear tire certain that something is caught in your wheel. Or wondering just how big is the boat that you're towing...get the picture. I sold my RMZ and bought a DRZ. As wonderful as the DRZ's are, I really miss the power. And I'm learning that extracting great power from a DRZ is a whole lot more difficult than turning your RMZ into a dual purpose bike or Supermotard....Kye
  6. I recently had the opportunity to ride a friends DRZ400S after he'd installed a full Muzzy exhaust system, DJ kit and performed the 3x3 airbox mod. The bike ran well and felt "Snappier" in the mid range and seemed to carry a few extra revs on top. However, I would have to say that the overall performance was definitely not earth shattering with the only major gain being the exhaust note. I was a little disappointed, because I was on the verge performing exactly the same mods, hoping to gain back some of the performance I had had with a previous motorcycle (RMZ450). I now found myself not being able to justify the cost. I decided to experiment. Armed with notes from TT threads and years of experience jetting roadrace motorcycles off I went. The first thing was to perform the 3x3 airbox mod. Then I went to the hobby shop and bought a few small washers that would be used as shims for the needle. I don't know the exact thickness of the washers, but they look to be about 1mm. I then removed the carb and pulled the plug covering the fuel/air mixture screw. I then gently seated the screw and backed it out 2.5 turns. I then shimmed the stock needle with a washer and reassembled. I left the 142.5 main alone at this point. Result:The bike ran fantastic and is still very stealthy with only a slight increase in intake noise. It now has more bottom and midrange power. There were slightly more revs on top. I didn't expect much with the stock pipe, but it was noticeable. The bike carburetted cleanly through the entire range. Even pulling well when performing low speed, top gear roll ons. Just to make sure I was in the ball park with the main I decided to go lean then rich and see where it wanted to go (bracketing). I installed a 130 main and that didn't work. Performance suffered dramatically. I then installed a 150 main and the bike ran about the same as with the 142.5. Maybe a little slower to rev. So, I reinstalled the 142.5 and called it a day. Total cost for the mods: $9.00 Using my friends DRZ as a dyno, we ran the bikes through the gears, side by side all the way to redline for several passes. At an indicated 92 mph, the greatest distance between the bikes was never more than a bike length. And it should be noted that the gap wasn't growing, it remained constant. I also saw the same result riding against a similarly modified KLX400R. The other bikes were faster, but given the added cost and NOISE, the performance gained is negligible. Note: Elevation/Temp: 2600ft./75*f Ride Safe, Kye Gunn