pbansen

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About pbansen

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  1. I'm betting that's all correct. I wouldn't bother trying to 'convert' it to California emissions - all DMV and CARB are looking for is the sticker or that the bike has over 7,500 miles. California DMV has pretty good info on the website about this - probably everything you need to know is on this page: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr9.htm I bought a DR-Z in Nevada a couple of years ago and paid the guy, but didn't think to look at the sticker. Sweated it out for a week trying to figure out if I had just bought a bike I wouldn't be able to register or how I could switch odometers or run up a bunch of mileage on it quickly. Turned out it had California emissions, so it was no sweat. I'm still thanking my lucky stars for that. Pete Bansen Truckee, California
  2. It won't happen only with WOT until you seem to get to the maximum speed in that gear. In other words, I can hold it wide open and it will run fine until I'm right at the max speed in the gear (and presumably the max RPM where a rev limiter would kick in, if there is one), then I'll get a little stutter which will persist as long as I maintain that condition (which I never do for long). It's not real sudden, but I'd be more inclined to say "sudden" than "gradual" - know what I mean? I'm talking myself into thinking it's a rev limiter. Pete
  3. bump - anybody got a clue on this? Pete
  4. Here's something that I've been wondering about. 2004 DR-Z400S - elevation at home about 5,500 - 6,000 feet, but I ride from about 2,500 - 9,000. 3x3 mod, Dynojet kit, stock pilot jet, clip 3rd from the top, fuel screw 2.5 out. I had been running a 128 main jet, but got a stutter at wide open throttle at top speed in third gear. Changed to a 132 main to see if that would fatten it up a little. Runs great, but I still get that little miss or stutter at WOT at top speed in third (about 68 mph). Is what I'm feeling a rev limiter or should I rejet? Pete Bansen Truckee, California
  5. Correct - if the bike was registered to you in another state, you can bring it with you and register it in California. This is from the California DMV website: " Does This Apply to Someone Moving to California? If you are moving to California from another state, you may register a new federally certified vehicle in California if it was first registered by you in your home state, or for military personnel, in your last state of military service. When applying for vehicle registration in California, you must provide evidence of your vehicle's previous registration and that you were a resident of the other state when you acquired the vehicle." Note the word "new" - California law defines a vehicle as "new" if it has less than 7,500 miles - that's the "7500 mile rule". Here's a link to the DMV web page: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29.htm
  6. I don't have a video, but they cycle much too fast, probably two 'on' cycles per second, maybe a bit faster than that, even. I just did this mod using the EL-12 flasher purchased at Pep Boys for $8.99. Works perfectly - the hardest part is pulling the connectors out of the block. If there's something in there you have to release, I couldn't find it, so I just pulled with a pair of needle nose pliers and wiggled a bit and the orange and blue wires came right out. Cut the old connectors off, stripped them back a little and crimped a 1/4" female connector on each wire. Piece of cake and now the flashers work at just the right speed. You'll love the Edge taillight, by the way - really cleans up the back of the bike.
  7. I just rejetted and the bike seems to run well, but it seems a little flat on the top end. Here's the specs: 2004 DR-Z400S ~5,000 feet elevation Stock exhaust 3 X 3 mod Dynojet Stage 1 needle - 3rd clip from top Kientech extended fuel screw - 2 1/2 turns out 128 main jet 22.5 (stock) pilot jet Suggestions for fattening up the top end a little? Thanks, Pete Bansen
  8. http://www.kytechmachine.com/motorcycleparts_USD/nfoscomm/catalog/ Billet rack made in Canada. Very nice design, beautifully made, easy installation, very sturdy and useful.
  9. Yeah, I bought the L brackets from Wheeling Cycle as well as the model 610 (I think that was the model) LED turn signals. They flash faster than the stock units, but it's kind of annoying and attention getting and in my experience, that's good! If someone notices that my turn signal is on because it has a somewhat hyper flash rate, it got them to notice it. If you want to slow them down to a more standard rate, it's my understanding that you just incorporate a 200 ohm resistor in the wiring to each signal. I haven't tried that yet, but it would be easy enough to experiment with and I really don't mind the faster rate. They're small units, but they're certainly bright enough. By the way, the L brackets come in pairs - you don't need to order 2 unless you really want two pair. Don't ask me how I know...
  10. The Edge fits under the fender, comes with a metal frame and mount and seems very job-rated to me. It's certainly a lot more protected and low profile than the stock unit and that would tend to make it a lot harder to brush off. I would be more leery of one that only mounts to the plastic of the rear fender, that's for sure.
  11. The DRC edge taillight bolts right up to existing holes on the rear subframe on the S. The wiring is easy, once you figure out which wire does what on the taillight. I cut the connectors a few inches toward the stock taillight and turn signals and attached the original units to the DRC taillight and turn signals - it makes them easy to remove. I made the connection by soldering and applying heat-shrinkable tubing to the splices, but you could use crimped connectors if you're more comfortable doing that. If you can get your hands on a DRC 'Edge' from Forrest at Wheeling Cycle, you're all set - great looking unit, easy installation and the LED's should last the length of the bike and then some.
  12. I just bought one from a guy on eBay for about $40. I think he copied it and bound it, but it's a quality job and worth the money, IMHO. I don't know what the original manual costs from Suzuki, but I'm guessing it's more than $40. It came well packaged and shipped Priority Mail. Model years covered are 2001-2006; there are specific sections for each of those years. The eBay auction number is: 8077251927 No interest other than that of a satisfied customer.
  13. Good luck! I'm gonna tackle it this weekend also, but I've got a nearly full Clarke 4 gallon tank that I need to run down a little bit before I pull it off. Already figured out that the pilot jet I bought on the way home today is the wrong one. Looks to me like getting the carb off the bike is the hardest part by far...
  14. I was on a ride last weekend and noticed the front fender bobbing and weaving a lot more than I thought it should. Stopped and checked it and found that three of the four bolts were loose. I pulled out the stock toolkit to get a wrench to tighten them and discovered to my shock that there was no 8mm wrench in the kit. I don't know whether the kit doesn't come with an 8mm or whether the previous owner had lost the wrench (doubt it - it doesn't look like he ever unsnapped the pouch). I did a half-assed job of snugging them up with those ridiculous, POS pliers in the toolkit and Loc-Tighted them when I got home. Moral of the story is check your toolkit and make sure that you have a means of tightening or loosening every fastener on your bike with what's in the kit. I'm probably going to just jettison the crummy Suzuki kit and duplicate it with some decent stuff. The spark plug wrench is cool, but most of the rest of it is terrible. I'm just glad it wasn't an important component - would have been a long, lonely walk out of the woods...
  15. I'm trying to get something straight here, so bear with me. I bought the Dynojet kit, but have not yet installed it. If I'm reading the FAQ's and thread correctly, it sounds like I also need to buy a Mikuni 25 pilot jet and a Mikuni main jet between 136-142.5, depending on my elevation. I bought a Kientech fuel mixture screw and will install that in place of the stock fuel mixture screw after removing the little brass plug. Oh, yeah - I also bought four little socket-head screws to replace the float bowl screws on the carburetor that have a habit of stripping. So - here's the question: what components will I use from the Dynojet kit? As far as I can tell so far, the only thing I'm taking out of there and installing in my bike is one spring. Is that right, or am I missing something? Thanks,