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About ScottRNelson

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  1. And if you're really cheap, you can get an aluminum walking cane from Walmart or somewhere and wedge that on the opposite side as the sidestand to get the rear wheel up enough to rotate it. I've done this a few times. I wouldn't use one to take the rear wheel off, though, unless there were absolutely no other options.
  2. I tried out a few motorcycle-specific trails above Boise a couple of days ago, dumped the bike on a steep tricky section and broke, of all things, the little metal piece that holds the spring on the sidestand. I've never heard of that happening and was totally surprised when it happened to me. I have no idea what it hit to break that piece off. Since my son managed to lose a sidestand spring years ago when the bike was new to me, I had hacked together a way to keep from losing the spring using zip ties and safety wire. That part worked correctly, but when I went to put the spring back in place I realized that I wouldn't be able to hook it back up. Good thing I carry other junk with me, like a bungee cord that I could thread through the passenger peg to hold the sidestand in place. Here's a photo of what broke: I managed to find the piece that broke off, so I'll find a welder on Monday and get it fixed. I also found it curious, after I took the sidestand off today, that the upper spring mount has significant wear. Enough that it looks like it could fail from wearing through someday in the future. Here's a closeup photo of that: I'm not looking for advice on this, just wanted to share in case anybody else experiences something similar.
  3. And note that the Factory Pro jet kit comes with a needle that is the same shape as stock but with five clip positions. The shape of the DynoJet needle looks really weird to me.
  4. And this is why I didn't bother trying to use a swingarm stand like that and have a dirt bike stand instead. Once you get the thing up on one of those it's not going anywhere and you can take the entire suspension off if you have to with the bike on one.
  5. That second one does not hold a motorcycle securely. I've tried one like that and got rid of it because the motorcycle didn't say in place on it.
  6. I used to have a set of Pitbull stands the worked for all of the Ducatis that I've owned. Neither the front nor the rear worked on my XR650L or the KTM 990 Adventure. Just today I purchased a dirt bike stand from Harbor Freight. It's a little more work to get the XR650L onto it, but once it's there you can do a lot more than with a swingarm stand.
  7. I'm curious about that, because the state of Idaho didn't care about the engine number. I know that California had that number on the title while I lived there. The Idaho title doesn't have it.
  8. And please note that this post ^ ^ ^ is by the guy that "Dave's Mod" is named after. Everything you need to know is in the 4strokes thread. I'll even include the link for you: https://4strokes.com/viewtopic.php?t=2 After studying the original article, if you have any more questions come back and ask them here. I'm sure somebody will come up with the answer for you.
  9. I disagree. You might not get 100% optimal mixture everywhere, but you can certainly get a bike that runs well in all circumstances by using less scientific means. I've done it multiple times with multiple motorcycles.
  10. Normal position for the idle mixture screw on an XR650L is 2 1/4 turns out. You're way rich on the idle circuit, either due to mixture screw being wrong or too big of pilot jet. Do you know what size jets are in there? There are multiple threads here on setting idle mixture and I'm still planning to follow those instructions - one of these days. Mine is "close enough" and runs really well right now, so I haven't bothered.
  11. Big Cottonwood Canyon - is that near Salt Lake City somewhere? Because of the sound, I would recommend that you get a service manual (available online) and start tearing down the top end. Better to know for sure what's going on than start throwing fixes at it and possibly damaging the engine further. I had to replace both the pulse generator and the CDI before mine became a reliable ride. Consider doing those just to be sure.
  12. Your sticker is in worse shape than mine, which is missing a few character. When I reregistered my bike in Idaho a few weeks ago I was concerned about not being able to read all digits of the VIN on the sticker, but the person checking it just looked at the number stamped into the frame right next to it. If I were to repaint my frame, the sticker would be gone and I wouldn't worry about it.
  13. The mountain bike tire pump is good in that it doesn't weigh much and never runs out of air, but a "Slime 40020 Tire Top Off Inflator" doesn't weight much more, takes up less room, and does all of the work for you. And they're cheap. That's what I carry and it's great when I want to air down for the dirt, but pump back up over 30 psi for pavement. Takes just a few minutes. Thanks for your list, I need to add a few things to my bag of tools.
  14. I have collected wrenches that fit everything so that I can take both wheels off using them, and I use those tools when I'm changing tires just to be sure. I've learned the hard way on a different motorcycle to include an adjustable crescent wrench "just in case". In an emergency, the adjustable wrench can be used on that one bolt or nut that you didn't think you would need to have to loosen or tighten that none of the other wrenches fit.
  15. Regarding headlight aim, I check mine on some road that is a dead end or turns 90 degrees with a car at the end of it. The light from 100 feet away should just come up to the base of the windows when in your normal riding position. I move things around until it's right. My Honda headlight is just about as good as any other bike I've owned and much better than a few of them. That doesn't mean it's a great headlight, but it seems to be good enough. And I don't really ride in the dark much at all anyway. Every rider should check their headlight aim once in a while just to be sure it's reasonable.