Jump to content

sryder

Members
  • Content Count

    440
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

About sryder

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    California
  1. I, too, admire short, concise answers (wish I could be briefer). And I don't see anyone second guessing Eddie's opinion. What I found rude was the personal attacks against Greg and myself (reread the "discussion"). This board has been exceptionally civil and very few participants use personal attacks as a form of argument. This board has also been a forum where many people can share their experiences without fear of attack. This is very refreshing and I hope it stays that way. I am not interested in argument or putting anyone down and I don't think Greg's comments were either. Why were we attacked personally? My only interest is in learning more about the DRZ, especially from Greg's and your's and other's experiences, and hopefully helping someone else along the journey, just as your experiences have helped me. I think someone had to say this. I could be wrong.
  2. Hmm...so you've been rude for six years. You are still very young. Keep up the good work but consider chilling out a little. I don't have any more use for your answers.
  3. But I agree! That is exactly the impression you have been giving lately. You are the moderator--so moderate. Your's is not the only experience that matters.
  4. Eddie, you don't know me but you sure do like to make personal attacks.
  5. +1 I also thought gas mileage would be affected by my gearing before I tried it independently. But I found pretty much the same thing as Greg. Changing from 15/44 to 14/44 didn't seem to affect my mileage. In fact, riding around in 4th gear vs 5th gear at the same speed didn't appear to affect mileage. However, mileage was highly sensitive to speed. If I rode around at an average of 30 mph I got much better mileage than if I rode around at 45 mph. Trying to understand this phenomena I hypothesized that at steady state the bike's motion alone (speed, wind, uphill, etc) determines how much power is required, and that power is highly related to fuel consumption. This makes sense. Like jogging--the faster you run the more calories you burn and the more food you need. So, ignoring 2nd order effects, basically the speed and conditions you ride, determines => the power you require and consume, determines => the fuel you burn. Within reasonable variations, the gear you ride does not appear to enter the equation. At extreme high or low RPM and/or gearing the results would be different if you end up on different parts of power curve. This theory is only one poor attempt to explain the facts I have seen. Maybe someone else can shed more light.
  6. If you only need low speed pull and are willing to trade off high speed, perhaps one less tooth on the front chain sprocket might do what you want?
  7. +1 I can add a confirming observation (which some will doubt but I am not a liar). After 3x3 and jetting, my mileage was 45-50 mpg and didn't get better regardless of tuning variations (up and down main jet, up and down needle clip, in and out fuel screw). Reading through the forum it seems clear that 45-50 mpg is not uncommon after 3x3 and rejetting. Partially inspired by your gas mileage (thanks, Greg!), I decided (as an experiment to improve gas mileage) to go back to 100% stock, including snorkel. I cut a 4 inch square of clear plastic from Home Depot, cut an oval hole for the snorkel, and screwed it on to the airbox top with some silicon sealant. The results were dramatic--my gas mileage jumped from 50 mpg to 65 mpg. With 3x3 jetting I was accustomed to hitting reserve in about 90 miles. After returning to the stock carb I have gone through three tankfuls and never gotten less than 120 miles! This was with the same wrist action, as verified by my route and by GPS maximum and average speeds. Yes, yes, I know that most riders on this forum care more about power than about gas mileage. That is fine. BUT don't say that 3x3 and jetting gives you better gas mileage. If you want 65 mpg at sea level all you have to do is keep the carb and airbox 100% stock (and don't exceed 65 mph very much). All the time I spent searching for optimum gas mileage only to discover that I already had it at the start of my quest! Amazing. Eddie, I'm sure you haven't done for economy what you have done for power, because you cannot improve on stock gas mileage without unacceptable side effects by a 3x3 mod plus rejetting the Mikuni. Not at sea level for sure. No expertise is needed to get close to optimum gas mileage--just keep your bike stock. Ahh... I did lose out on acceleration--that was the tradeoff. With the 3x3 and rejetting, for example, I enjoyed cracking the throttle open at 53 mph and feel myself sliding back in the seat from the burst of power! I lost that snap when I went back to stock. I still get decent acceleration but it doesn't jump out anymore--not like it used to. But I can live with that for now. Let the flames begin...
  8. sryder

    New S jetting question

    At low throttle like that the main jet would have nothing to do with it. So possibly it is something in the pilot circuit you would otherwise try to tune out with your fuel screw. The fuel screw is inaccessible on the stock carb without drilling out a plug--which eventually you will do if you rejet. To test if your bike is too lean at that throttle setting, you can duct tape one third of the snorkel closed (from inside the airbox), then replace the airbox cover and see if the surge goes away. (Remove the tape after your test.) Edit: I don't know if this tape test will be conclusive at such low throttle, but it would be easy to try it (reminds me of the drunk looking for his keys under the street light because he could see better--even though he lost his keys somewhere else).
  9. I did tell you, "All I will do is remove the front wheel and re-install it in strict accordance with the factory Service Manual". Just attention to detail, basically. I put the speedometer tab in the position specified in the manual then tighten the bolts to specified torque in the specific order as described in the manual. No magic involved. (I also check some of the other possible causes, like a bent rim or an unseated bead just in case.) I think the reason I keep reading about high speed wobble is that people read this and think it is too simple and can't possibly fix the problem so they don't bother with it, or they misunderstand the Service Manual and do something different and conclude that it doesn't work. But this worked for me to fix my own high speed wobble and I don't see why it can't work for others too. I decided that if there is anyone out there who still has a high-speed wobble (the scary kind) and lives close enough I could reach in a couple hour ride, that I would volunteer to fix it for them. (Yay, another excuse for me to ride! ) Anyway, if this actually helps anyone I will be glad to post detailed step-by-step procedures again, hopefully with pictures. I feel strongly (and have often said) that the stock DRZ-S does NOT have a high speed wobble unless there is a suspension problem (such as improper front axle installation). I would recommend against any modification to the bike or any third-party addition just to cure a speed wobble if it exists--I claim that ain't necessary.
  10. If you have a high speed wobble on a DRZ-S--one that feels like your bike is on the verge of a tank-slapper or that makes you afraid to ride much above 70 mph, AND if you live within 100 miles of San Jose, CA, please PM me. I am offering you a no-charge, no-strings-attached on-site solution that will remove your high-speed wobble permanently. I will ride my DRZ-S to your location. I will provide all instruments and tools needed. You will provide a jack or other means to raise the front wheel. The whole cure, including before and after road testing, should take less than one hour. This is a limited-time offer. I reserve the right to cancel it without further notice. I am selling nothing and I will not damage your bike nor void your warranty. All I will do is remove the front wheel and re-install it in strict accordance with the factory Service Manual (I will bring the Manual so you can follow along). I have done this many times. It permanently cured my own speed wobble and I believe it will yours.
  11. sryder

    Heresy!! Maybe going back to Mikuni

    Flashman, I was in a similar situation when I had the 3x3 and jetted Mikuni carb. I have a 100 mile loop I like to ride in the country and my top GPS speed on the loop is about 62 mph and average GPS speed is 36-38 mph. With the 3x3 I repeatedly got fuel mileage in the range of 48-50 mpg on these trips. And I never got more than about 90+ miles before reserve. When I changed back to 100% stock Mikuni carb, including closing the 3x3 and re-using the snorkel, I immediately got mileage in the range of 62-66 mpg on the same ride. My GPS confirmed that I was riding the same way--so no differences in wrist action. Since returning to 100% stock Mikuni I have yet to see less than 120+ miles before reserve. This is a HUGE difference! Eddie will tell you that my jetting must have been wrong--and I don't doubt him. But I did follow the TT jetting instructions to the 'T' and I did fine tune the main jets and needle position as best I could. IMO you will find that the 3x3+jetting (even more so FCR) will degrade your gas mileage 15-20 percent for "normal" driving conditions. If gas mileage is very important to you go back to stock and try it for yourself. Don't believe everything you read (including this $.02).
  12. sryder

    (less of a) front end wobble!

    Sorry if I asked this already but I didn't see any mention of it. Is the tab on your speedometer gearbox above or below the tab on your fork? If it is below there is a very good chance that your front axle is not installed properly. That was the cause of my own speed wobble--and I have no wobble at all, at any speed, since I fixed it.
  13. sryder

    TPS noob question

    Thanks for the chart, Eddie. I expected the stock carb to be leaner than the jetted carb. However, the red and green lines are basically identical, around 13/1 A/F ratio. This is contrary to the general (and apparently wrong) belief that the stock carb is too lean due to the EPA standards. Confusion is a prerequisite to learniing.
  14. sryder

    TPS noob question

    Believe it or not (many will not--but it is true), in tests on my bike the stock carb has more top speed than the 3x3+jetted carb, by about 5 mph. (And, yes, the jetting was properly setup and tuned.) - When I look at the thread where people are giving their top speeds, I see that most often the higher top speeds are with stock carbs compared to the 3x3 jetted carb. - When I look at Eddie's graphs of power for carbs that he has jetted (presumably the best possible) I note that WOT power drops significantly at the top end (starting at mid-range)--down to the low twenties HP. Without data it is impossible for me to tell if this is also true for stock (I searched but was unable to find a stock power/A/F ratio curve), a side effect of the 3x3+jetting, or due to something else like the TPS. My tests were ok--same stretch of road, same driving, same day. I don't need to repeat them. However, they are not conclusive by any means--other bikes may get different results, my TPS may have been calibrated, or a slight headwind or tailwind might have biased the results.
  15. sryder

    DRZ vs CRF450X

    Can a stock CRF-450X even do 80 mph true speed?
×