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yamirider5588

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About yamirider5588

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Mississippi
  1. yamirider5588

    Decomp plug

    Anyone have a good source for one of these plugs ? E -- bay has them for the 450's ... are they the same size ? This item was on my list of things to get , but always got put on the back-burner . Now that mine finally popped out , I cant seem to find one . Thanks .
  2. yamirider5588

    03 Yz259f Major issue water

    Well ... I hope some corrects mkporn ... because I honestly do not know the answer . I understand why you'd think it wouldn't work ... Don't you put the tester on , then kick over prolly' ten kicks ... until you get the highest compression ?
  3. yamirider5588

    2006 WR250F Clutch Recommendations?

    I've found that the only way to cure my dragging clutch was to go with a quality aftermarket clutch kit ( fibers and steel plates ) The stock plates were made of aluminum ( less rotational mass ) and they were warped . The first kit was from Moose - oh , and I did use HeavyDuty springs as well . After that kit wore out , I put in a Barnett Dirt Digger . Both kits work great .
  4. yamirider5588

    Tire size question??

    110/90/19 is a real common choice . That is the size that you will find if you buy a Maxxis , Pirrelli , Bridgestone or just about any manufacturer . The exception is going to be Michelin . They measure their tires differently than all others . I tried the MH3 .( that's a little harder compound - btw ) Their size was a 130/70-19 . It was smaller than the Pirrelli 110/90-19 that I used previously . I see that your from Tenn . If you're in middle to eastern Tn , then a harder compound might be a better choice ( rocky terrain ) . I liked the MH3 only in that type situation . I've since gone back to a softer compound . Hope this helps .
  5. yamirider5588

    03 Yz259f Major issue water

    That head probably has quite a few hours on it . Is there any way to to do a compression test ? That'll give you a good idea of the overall top-end condition . Save the money from the ASV's and spend that on a compression tester . MotoSport's got one fairly cheap right now ... If the piston and valves are sealing well , then it's got to be in the carb . Pull that sucker down and meticulously clean and blow out all passages . Any dirt that could have lodged in a jet or air passage can throw the jetting off just enough to make you miss your mark . Don't forget to clean out all the vent tubes as well . Hang in there ... Sometomes you just have to keep farking with it .
  6. yamirider5588

    Shooting foot long flames out the tail pipe

    Jetting is such an individual thing ... you sound like you have a basic understanding of what's going on . If you have a screwdriver small enough to get to the fuel screw , then I'd start there first . Adjust per the sticky in the jetting forum - or - William1 has a solid method as well . <---- this will take care of the idle circuit flame thrower . Once you get that dialed in , move on to the accel problem . You can probably cure that by a change in needle height . Here's a ton of good info . I know it's dated ... but the carbs havn't changed too much . Scroll down to the jetting section . http://www.thumperfaq.com/sitemap.htm
  7. yamirider5588

    2004 kx250f valve issues...

    This thread is turning into the same old " I know more than you " situations . The original question was about getting the seats cut . And yes ... I do know more than you ... get the seats cut . sorry I couldn't help myself . If the local shop uses the valve guide method , then ask them to use your OLD valve to put the final polish on the seat . This is what is meant by lapping the seat . The shops that have the SERDI machine will usually charge much more to recoup their investment . The same results can be had from a competent tech and the old school method . Just my two cents . Good luck .
  8. yamirider5588

    michelin tires

    I'm wrapping up a trial run on the M-12 XC . The tire held up great in the rocky / mixed terrain of Loretta Lynn Fall Ride . Tire life was better than expected . They seem to have found a good balance of traction / tire life . It took some time getting use to the differences of this tire having run the Pirelli MidSoft32 . The M-12 slides out predictably and gets pretty good traction in everything but mud / sand . Since it has been really wet in my area and I don't plan on riding much rocky stuff , I'll switch back to the trusty Pirelli . One more thing ... the M-12 130 /80-19 was a skinnier tire than the Pirelli 110/90-19 . Weird , eh ?
  9. yamirider5588

    Seat Cutting!! Valve Train

    Ron nailed it completely . Here's the type of cutters that they use at my local shop . Neway
  10. yamirider5588

    wiseco 290 bigbore kit any good ???

    IMO ... coppercoat is the only way to fly . not positive , but I think the Athena gasket will only fit the Athena cylinder . The water jackets are different on other manufacturers kits . My local shop told me that the Athena gaskets were crap ... to go with Cometic . I went the Athena route ( with coppercoat ) and am VERY pleased with the results . Prep work is the key to success . BrakeClean every mating surface - even the gasket before the coppercoat .
  11. yamirider5588

    Help me Troubleshoot

    Well ... here's the story : Took the head back to the shop where I had the seats cut . The guy gets out a really big screwdriver and proceeds to try and get the cam to turn through on the intake side . I can't watch . He feels the same thunk . He stands there for a minute , scratching his head , and finally mutters ... pull em' all off ... like I didn't know this was coming . So there I am ... breaking down this head @ the cycle shop . He digs around in the back and gets a Honda manual . Then it becomes crystal clear . First , let me say I know better than to work on any bike w/o the proper knowledge . i.e Manual . So , lacking proper knowledge , I took an educated guess that : the larger beefier looking spring should go with the beefier intake valve . Ding Ding Ding ... we have a winner ! I had the springs backwards I hope ya'll get a good chuckle from this one .... I'll head back to the yami-forum now ... Good news though ... she runs like a raped-ape !
  12. yamirider5588

    Still Smoking bad...

    Soak the gasket in oil ... to make it seal better ? Man ... 1) get a new head gasket 2) get a manual 3) install new head gasket per the specs in the manual . ( dry )
  13. yamirider5588

    Help me Troubleshoot

    My thoughts were centered around the timing - chain , cam , valves . Well , I left out one part of the rebuild . We had my local shop replace the intake valve guides . I spoke with the tech today and he thinks it's a long shot , but still possible . I'm going to get the head ( at another location ) and take it back to the mechanic and see if the guides sit too high in the head . He set to spec , but doesn't rule out that his spec could be wrong . Thanks for all the replies ... I'll let you know more - when I do . ..............................
  14. yamirider5588

    Help me Troubleshoot

    Yes to all ... bike was timed correctly . Tensioner released properly - marks lined up ... even turned the crank a full revolution and re-timed , just to satisfy my curiosity . Thanks for the quick replies ... keep em' coming .
  15. yamirider5588

    Help me Troubleshoot

    O.K. Gang ... I'm in serious need of some help . I'm absolutely without a clue on what is happening with this rebuild ; so I'll start with the basics . It's an 06' crf250r that my cousin recently purchased used . The valves went south within 4 rides . On top of that , she smoked like a chimney . No problem ... we can rebuild er' . I remember those ill spoken words like it was yesterday Long story short ... we send off the cylinder for plating . Rebuild the head with OEM stock . Re-assemble this thing so many times it's becoming silly . Everything goes together as smooth as can be . When it's time to turn the new girl over ...that's when the trouble starts . There's something binding . As in - it will not turn the crank through a full cycle . It happens just prior to the intake valves reaching full lift . I can see the cam hit the ramp on the lobe , partialy depress the bucket , then just thunk I've looked at the piston more than I care to admit - no marks there . Piston is pointed the correct way . The Intake valves are not bent ( taken the head down twice ) . The crank will turn through if the cam is removed . The correct springs were used ( even tried the old springs ) . I've timed this thing so many teeth late ... the piston HAS to be a the bottom of the stroke ... and the clunk happens at the same spot - GRRRRRRRR My blood pressure is rising just thinking about this thorn .... I'll gladly answer any Q's
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