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About CsHoSi

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    TT Silver Member

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    Computers, BSD, Linux, Bicycling, Kayaking, Motorcycling
  1. CsHoSi

    DRZ pics, lets see your Z

    Yep, that's a Tonn's Racing 'Panaman' rack, Their skid plate too. Now looks to be called the 'Aluminum Cargo Rack Deluxe Version'. Glad to see Tonn's back in business! I've received numerous PM's over the years asking which rack that is. He must be doing something right! I love mine. Haven't been active here for many years, but still have and ride my DRZ! Here it is in its current incarnation: Dirt: SM: Only thing different now is plate mounted horizontally, backed with an aluminum plate and silicon sandwiched in-between. Destroyed several plates before that. And yes, that is a zip-tie holding the stock blinker away from the MRD pipe. I should probably at least get a black one!
  2. CsHoSi

    My SM wants some weekends in the dirt

    I finally settled on 14/39 and 14/48 gearing, 108 and 114 links I believe. I started with the stock 15-tooth CSS but both felt too tall for my riding. This combo has been great for me. I moved my OEM rotors to the dirt wheels and bought aftermarket for SM wheels. I do swap out brake pads with the wheels too. If both sets were OEM I might not bother. I'm running ContiForce SM tires and love them compared to stock and the Pilot Race rear I got for $50. After trying a Kenda Trakmaster rear for dirt I won't run anything but D606's on the dirt wheels now. The used ones I got with the 'E' wheels worked fantastic in dirt and were no problem on the street. The listed same-sized Trakmaster was very narrow profile in comparison and took some getting used to. The front D606 lasted two rear tires with mostly street miles. I found my MX boots were wearing the paint off the frame so I got Works frame guards. I just used gray primer on worn area and the guards mostly cover it and now take on the boot wear. Along with other protection like Unibiker radiator guards, Cycra Pro Bends with triple-clamp mount and case-savers of course, I haven't had any major damage to the bike. I did bust one of the chain guard tabs off the swing arm. I don't really miss it. I had not spent as much time with the bike the last couple years and waited until I wore out the knobbies before I mounted fresh tires on the SM wheels and swapped them on. The knobbies were still a blast on the street. The SM tires are only managable on hardpack and rocks when it is dry. Even then off-camber tracks and ruts can be a problem. They really let you push it on the street though. I'm having a renewed love affair with the DRZ in SM trim now. But, while exploring roads, I've found several places I'm coming back to venture further soon as I get the dirt wheels on. Ride on!
  3. CsHoSi

    Normal Tire Pressure Loss Rate?

    I experience this too using UHD tubes. I don't know. I've found the bike feels better riding with lower pressure though. SM and E wheels, the SM tubes are Michelin I believe.
  4. CsHoSi

    KLX 400 S/R throwing oil out of airbox

    So, you checked the dipstick oil level to determine you lost a lot of oil? Just making certain you didn't see excess air filter oil which will come out the air box drain plug and down the swingarm by shock with some drips on the ground. I notice this on mine when I run it for hours while very hot out and/or don't get enough oil out of the filter.
  5. CsHoSi

    What handguards are you running?

    Cycra pro bends with triple clamp mount. Mine took a little bit of manipulation to get mounted first time, but they've been solid for years now. Can order extra plastic bumpers for them here, which take a lot of the abrasion when sliding, instead of the metal. Came with large white deflectors, I run them with dirt wheels or when cold out. I also bought the small-sized deflectors extra, in black, for most of my riding in SM trim.
  6. CsHoSi

    Best Skid Plate on the market?

    The Tonn's Panaman (now Deluxe) rack and 3/16" skid plate were the first accessories I put on my bike; well, right after the TT case savers actually. Very happy with them and like the looks. Bike looks half-naked without the skid. You don't have to take the skid off to change oil, but I do because I can't keep oil from running down there. It's a tight fit but a swivel extension makes it fairly easy, I don't have much trouble anymore.
  7. CsHoSi

    Spare gas tank on back rack?

    I've carried (2) 1-liter MSR camping fuel bottles for several years now with no issues. There is a fill line on them and though it can be hard to judge exactly from the inside, I've never had one leak. They're definitely under pressure though. Mine have the old-style gray cap that isn't child-proof. Have a smaller one with the new cap for backpacking and it doesn't leak either. I carry them in a military-style butt pack I have lashed top of my rack, along with tools and tube and such. Doesn't provide much extra range though. Two liters is equivalent to about half a gallon. Theoretically I should get 15-20 miles out of the both of them. Last month I rode home on fumes, next day bike didnt want to start, no gas, so I poured in just one 1-liter bottle. Go easy on the SM tires for nearly a mile of rock road with two very steep, washed out hills. Hit the pavement and WOT up to 60 in flat twisties for the duration. Went a total of 8 miles before bike starved. I could have tipped the bike to eke out a little more, but from my experience it doesn't do much but get you 'over the next hill'.
  8. My 06 has done it for years and seems worse when cold (ambient and/or engine). Even to the point of wanting to roll forward (both). I tried to bump start it on a fairly steep little hill after sitting with a dead battery for a couple weeks. I didn't get rolling, had to clutch in to get down. It was about 50 degrees. Before I replaced the battery I could only start the bike when it had been sitting on the tender, battery wouldn't restart. But with the engine warm I could bump start it off small slopes with suprising ease. Just the other week I had the chain off and warmed it up to dry off. I watched the CSS spin the whole time. It stopped by lightly placing my finger on it. It was 100 degrees out too. From what I've read and understand this is normal; oil viscosity drag, just the nature of things. I don't have a conclusive thread to link, I don't know if one exists. But here is one I just read with a reply from William1, an old-timer I tend to trust. I'll eventually see how the clutch looks when I take time to have the bike down for my kick starter kit. But now I might as well wait until I have to replace my water pump.
  9. Damn, that sucks! I have my SM rotors on the 18/21 wheels too but I swap pads. Use the anti-sieze! A bottle will last dang near forever. Torque wrench? I have a set of hex key sockets I use.
  10. On a used bike you don't really know what the PO did and have to go over everything. I'd check the cable routing or the cable itself could be kinked. Might just want to start with a new one for around twenty bucks, adjust it properly and go from there. Worst case you'll have a spare clutch cable. How many fingers are you getting on the lever? First time I rode mine, up the driveway, getting off I tripped up trying to swing my leg over and had the bike fall over on me. I cushioned the blow but still broke the ball and a little more off my clutch lever. So, I've used three fingers on the clutch lever from day one and it's not bad on the street. But off-roading my hand tires quickly.
  11. CsHoSi

    Exhaust shield/guard for the MRD?

    Now that you had me look, I forgot to mention the 2 'u-nuts' also bought at hardware store. The pipe strap slips through them and heat shield is screwed into its threaded hole. Don't recall the size, bring a heat shield screw with you. They're in the hardware bins here. Google image search 'u-nut' to see examples.
  12. CsHoSi

    Exhaust shield/guard for the MRD?

    I bought some pipe clamps from the hardware store to put my stock shield on. They turned a goldish tinge ilke the pipe in that section. I melted my old nylon pants on the new pipe too. I was upset at first because it left a stain, but the shield covers it now anyways. The pipe looks beautiful though with shades of gold, purple and blue. Forget chrome.
  13. CsHoSi

    Chain link (length) ?

    Here's the post from Noble I was referring to: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/890090-chain-adjustment/page__p__9263063 I found the 5/8" to be fairly accurate in my case. I should be more clear with terminology so not to confuse, I always say a link but it's fairly obvious what needs to happen when you look at the chain.
  14. CsHoSi

    Chain link (length) ?

    I have an 06 SM too. Earlier this year when I swapped on my SM wheels with fresh tires I put on a new Regina chain, 110-link, with 14/39 gearing. I was hesitant to cut out a link, chain seemed stiff so I ran it a little loose with axle all the way at back of swing arm for 100 miles or less. Then I cut one link out of the chain and moved axle to middle of swing arm adjustment. So, I'd think 110 would be a good starting place for 14/41. I bought a folding trail-size Motion Pro chain breaker tool from here or rocky mtn. It was fairly cheap and works great. The first chain I cut I dremeled off the fat tip of rivet. The second one I just did, I was talking to this mechanic at my dad's work and he said no need. I did it w/o grinding and can tell you it came out easy with the trail chain breaker. Where are you located? I'll be back in KC tomorrow. I'm trying to remember, I read a post I think Noble replied to saying 1.25" from rivet-to-rivet when you cut out a link, but said how much it would move axle in swingarm that I can't recall now. I can't find it again searching, I have it saved at home if you can wait till tomorrow night and think it would help. Anyways, if you're in the KC metro and want to do it at home I'm willing to loan or come over. A member, 'goldwing??', came over and helped me put on my first set of SM tires and I'm very grateful for the local support and would like to repay. The second set with an SM bead buddy I was able to do myself. Here's the tools I have, this pic still on my photobucket from when I posted about my dirt wheels swap and popped the stock riveted chain.
  15. I bought my 06 DR-Z SM new and it's the first motorcycle I've ever ridden. 11k miles on it now. I'm 5'7 with a 30" inseam, maybe 150 lbs with gear. I bought the Suzuki gel seat and it sits a little lower but also has a rounded profile so I can shift side to side easy and have one foot flat in sm trim. Other foot is on rear brake when stopped. With MX boots and my 18/21 wheels I have one toe down and it's fine. On that note I have had no problems with gusting side-winds when moving. I seem to react quickly enough and lean in and out of it to stay on course. When stopped at an intersection though, is where it gives me some trouble. I might have to slide over on the seat and put my other foot down to keep from going over when a very strong gust hits suddenly. When I first bought it I commuted 14 miles one-way to work regularly on side-roads. I'd ride as long as there was not snow or salts on the road. No problems and very fun. I've only ever used 87 octane. I'd be more worried about ethanol in the long run, please govt. don't go over 10% anytime soon! I ride bicycles and the gel seat doesn't bother me at all. I would have stayed stock if not for the height advantage. I wouldn't do lowering links myself, seems we're sized similarly, I'd recommend trying the seat first. So, the seat doesn't bother me, but I rode 90 miles on the interstate once before and stopped twice to walk around and get the feeling back in my hands and feet. They felt like they were vibrating still a few minutes after getting off. I don't commute anymore since I don't work, but recently I've been riding it more than quick 'spirit' rides outside town, going on 100-mile trips around the twisty lake roads. Some of the roads are smooth, most are in rough shape. I keep at mostly 50-60 mph the whole way, with occasional 70-80 on straights. At the end of my ride I feel it in my hands, but not near like the interstate ride I remember. I run 14/39 gearing currently in SM mode and am happy with it. I did the 14 CSS just for swap to dirt wheels, I run 14/47 so I can creep slowly and pick my way over technical stuff. The bike wears me out having to pick it up all the time at my size. I'm running Contiforce SM tires now, I like them a lot. I don't really ride it in the rain anymore though, but I imagine they're better than the stock tires when wet too, although I didn't have any problems commuting in the rain on the stock tires. Just watch out for the painted markings on the road, center of road where oil and other fluids drip, and especially when it just first starts to rain. Slow, smooth and steady throttle, brakes and turns. Hope my book didn't bore you and found something useful out of it. Enjoy your bike, they sure are fun!