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GaThumper

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About GaThumper

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  1. Thanks! that will definately be part of the process Saturday. I attempted that yesterday but using the short hose from the tank and setting petcock to prime I didn't see any leaks after a couple of minutes. May not have been enough time for the leak to develop. Saturday I'll remove the carb again and check the jet plug and accelerator pump cover and the fuel screw assembly and then fill it up with gas on the bench and see what I can find. Appreciate the help!
  2. Thanks for the quick reply! I appreciate it. Yes I use too many words, but I don't want to leave anything out that might help solve the problem. This wasn't an Ebay carb, but I'm not certain of the history with the PO. It was refurrbed by mxrob and modified with all the DR650 mods and set up for a DR650. The PO said he was using it on his DR650 and when he decided to sell he removed the mods to sell separately. I have no idea if he used carb cleaner on it or how long it has been sitting, but I think it was running on his bike this spring, so maybe 6 months? I'll try and call him again tomorrow. I got a link to a nice exploded view on Sudco from another forum. http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/expfcrmx.gif Looking at this diagram I found the correct order for the fuel screw is screw, spring, washer, o-ring. So I may or may not have a problem in that assembly. I'll need to look in the carb body and see if the washer and o-ring are MIA or just retained in the carb body. Even if they are there I guess the o-ring could need to be replaced. Also looks like there is a plug in the bottom of the bowl (Drail Bolt, number 123) with o-ring (number 122) that will need to be considered. Of course the main o-ring/gasket (Bowl Packing, number 45) could be a problem. If gas is not coming out the overflow, can I rule out the float assembly for now? Gas seems to be coming out the bowl or where the bowl attaches to the carb. SO, I'm still thinking fuel screw, jet access plug, and o-ring/bowl gasket (Packing) Tomorrow I'm going to check the bowl and see if it has emptied completely. If it is mostly empty I would assume the leak is near the bottom of the bowl, maybe the fuel screw or the drain plug/jet access plug. If there is still some gas in the bowl, maybe that could indicate the bowl o-ring leaking? Since it's not leaking out the overflow, I'm not looking too close at the float assembly yet since I would expect it to come out the overflow if the float was stuck (it wasn't) or wasn't seating properly? Again I did a simple test of the float by blowing int he fuel supply and when the float lifts (not measured) it stops up tight. I haven't considered the acelerator pump cover yet (Number 47) but I guess it's got to be a suspect since the fuel seemd to come off the bottom of the bowl. Could fuel leak from the accelerator pump cover? Thanks Again! Please excuse the novella
  3. Cross posting here for a broader audience. I'm searching here an elsewhere and reading old posts, but any advice would be appreciated. Carb in question is a Keihin FCR MX 39mm from a YFZ450, currently installed on a DR650 with all of Robs mods done by Rob for the PO. First post last night... So I bought an FCR from the Buy-and-Sell a couple of months ago from 28marcb and finally got all the pieces and parts together to do the install. Had the shock off for a rebuild by Cogent and took the opportunity this week to cut my airbox, and install the FCR and DG pipe while I had the tank, airbox, etc. off the bike. Everything went pretty well, following Rob's instructions and got everything back together about dusk tonight. Petcock on prime, couple of pumps of the throttle, open the choke and it fired right up. Played around a bit with choke/no choke, throttle pumps, and partial throttle to get it running and keep it running and adjusted the idle up just a bit and it's sounding NICE! (OK a little LOUD, with the DG pipe, but I have a GSX-R750 can to go on when I get tired of playing hooligan with the DG on. First thing I noticed was a little whine/whistle and I wondered if I had an air leak, but I vaguely remember something about an FCR "turbo" sound, so I figure I'll do some reading tonight and verify. The I noticed a little gas leaking from the bottom of the carb. I shut it down and grap a couple of shop towels and wipe it up. Still leaking, seems to be coming from around the area where the bowl joins the carb body. Touched the air screw and found gas there, but may just have ran there from somewhere else. I pulled the gas line to verify that the vacuum petcock was functioning correctly and it was. Wondered if the PO may have had the bowl off before I got it and didn't tighten the screws, but a quick check with the allen wrench and they are as tight as I would have tightened them in the aluminum body. I changed towels a couple of times and it appears that once the bowl emptied I'm not getting any more fuel. So I'm reading and thinking and trying to plan my troubleshooting for tomorrow. I was REALLY hoping it would be ready for a ride Friday, so I'm going to get back on it early tomorrow afternoon and see what I can find. I didn't check the drain plug (and may have not even had a hose installed on it) so maybe that's where the fuel was coming from, even though it appeared as though it was leaking around the front (lower) edge of the bowl/carb body seam? Is there anywhere else that I need to look for the leak? I saw the post (and others) about the float level and seals, and I'll see if I can narrow it down and find the issue tomorrow. Here are my plans so far, and I would love any other advice you may have! First I'll try the trick Rob has suggested to another member of opening the drain and then after the bowl is empty opening the petcock (prime position) to flow some fuel through the bowl and try and wash out any debris. If that doesn't work, I'm going to see if I can turn the carb enough to remove the bowl without removing the carb from the boots/bike. Maybe I can get enough access to check the float seal is functioning correctly? Not sure if I can check the float level in this position, but may not need to? While the bowl is off I guess I could also spray some carb cleaner around in there, but I hate to make a mess, so I may go ahead and remove the carb and do it right. Also, I'm not sure if the carb cleaner would be safe for all the parts exposed with the bowl off. I believe you're not supposed to get carb cleaner on rubber parts? May need to replace the needle or some other parts due to sitting up several months? according to some posts. Based on where it appears to be leaking I guess it could be the gasket/o ring on the float bowl? Your wisdom and advice are GREATLY appreciated! James <>< P.S. I'm also looking for pictures and/or diagrams showing how all the hoses should be installed and routed to make sure that's all OK. Second post tonight after another R&R and still leaking... I decided to just go ahead and take the carb off. It's not much trouble and would give me better access to asses the problem. Carb off and checked the float and it seemed to be OK. Blow in the fuel pipe with carb upside down and tight as can be. Checked that the dran was tight and it was good. At first I thought there could be an issue since I could blow in the drain hose with the drain cut off, but I'm pretty sure I read that the drain is ALSO the overflow? Removed the bowl to inspect things and the float still looks good. I didn't check the level since the gas is definately NOT coming out the overflow, but blowing while raising the float definately shuts off the fuel. Since my leak is NOT out the overflow I'm going to assume the float is still set correctly as delivered to Marc by Rob. Found that blowing in the drain hose with the drain closed air comes out a brass tube probably the overflow? One thing I noticed and wondered about is the fuel screw. I carefully removed it and then removed the bowl and then carefully tipped the carb over so I wouldn't lose any parts. All that came out was a spring. I was kind of expecting an o ring and a washer. Maybe they were still in the carb body? I'm looking now for an exploded diagram to verify the components and the order they shoud be installed. Looking at the Merge Racing diagram it appears to be washer, spring, o-ring, fuel screw, but I'll verify. If that's correct then mine is either missing or installed out of order? Would this cause a leak? I cleaned the o-ring and put the carb back together and tried to hook up the gas and set to prime to fill with fuel before re-installing to check for leaks and if leaking see exactly where the fuel was leaking. After a minute or two I didn't see any leaks, so re-assembled and tried it again. Before I got finished re-installing I noticed some little drips of gas definately seemed to be coming from the bowl somewhere. Reaching in and feeling for gas it seemed like it was on the bottom of the bowl. It was almost dark and I knew I might need to get some parts so I finished re-assembly and took a little test ride in the neighborhood because I just HAD to try it out. WOW, I was really impressed with the power and response of the FCR. Worth every penny, don't wait, don't wonder, don't worry, JUST DO IT! After the ride I'm still seeing some small drips of gas, still looking like the bottom of the bowl, HOWEVER, that is the lowest point of the carb and any gas leaked could end up down there, so I'm not sure? I'll ride the DR350 tomorrow and read and think about it some more before I R&R the carb again. I definately seen to verify the parts on the fuel screw and may need to order some parts. I'll probably get a new o-ring for the bowl at the same time, but I don't think there is any problem with the float at this point. Once I get to see an exploded view I'll also be looking for an access plug for the jets. I think there is one on the FCR? maybe a 17mm plug? If there is a plug there I'll need to check and see if it's tight and if there is an o-ring? Are there any other places for a leak that I have not thought of? I'm looking for a good exploded view that I can zoom in on and also has a parts list. I'll probably find one tonight, but if anyone has a good link, I'd appreciate it! The carb is a 39mm Keihin FCR MX from a YFZ450 four wheeler.
  4. GaThumper

    DR650 Rear Disc Guard

    I've got a rear disc guard on my DR350 from Scotts and would like to have one on my 650 but they don't currently make one. It is machined aluminum and replaces the brake carrier. I think it's the best rear disc guard out there. Now granted you really have to be beating up the ole DR to bust a disc, and you could buy a new disc for what this would cost, but I love it and would gladly shell out the $139 for another one. Here's a generic picture from their web site to give you an idea how it fits. I've talked to Steve at Scotts and they would be glad to make some for the DR650, but it's going to take 50 orders to start production. I have no idea if there is that much (or any) interest in this, but I told him I would troll it out here and a few other web sites and see if there is enough interest to start a list.
  5. GaThumper

    what happened to Yanni

    Thread from last year has some more of the story... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=911544&highlight=yanni
  6. GaThumper

    DR 650 Suspension update (shock)

    Just found this old thread after posting my new thread earlier and wanted to bring this back to the top for reference. Another group buy is brewing on advrider. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1010632
  7. GaThumper

    DR650 Shock Upgrade

    Another group buy is coming together for the DR650 shock from Rick at Cogent Dynamics. I don't know if it's appropiate to post the deal here, so you can find the details at advrider by searching for "dr650 shock rebuild" There's a thread there that's been running since Rick started design work on the shock in Jan 2008. The current group buy is at the end. The shock is regular price, but in the group buy you get the $125 ceramic coating for $45 and you can add a spring for $80. $20 discount on emulators and springs for the front if you get them together with the rear. I hope this is OK to post, if not please nuke it and let me know. Thank You! James
  8. GaThumper

    dr350se idle help

    Make sure the pilot jet is NOT a spray type jet with the cross drilled holes in it. I got one by mistake and my bike ran like CRAP, would not idle well, ran terrible at low RPMs. If I stayed in the throttle it would run OK, but it was too rich and would not run or idle correctly at lower RPMs.
  9. GaThumper

    DR350 Head Trashed - Help!

    Just noticed one on Fleabay, not affiliated in any way, just have to talk tot he seller and see if it will work for you... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150133498984&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:middle:us
  10. GaThumper

    DR350 Questions: from the FNG

    If you are not going off road at all I would really recommend you look for a DR650. You will be infinitely more pleased with a DR650 on the road. The only reason I got my DR350 and am selling the DR650 is I wanted 80-90% dirt capability. If you want to come over to Georgia, I'll sell you my DR650 up for sale soon for $3500. It's a 2003 with only about 1500 miles and is in excellent condition. It has a Yoshimura pipe installed with proper re-jetting and runs great. If you prefer the quiet pipe I'll swap back the stock one for you. It also has DOT knobbies installed but I'll swap them out for the original street tires if you prefer. I plan to put it on Craiglslist this week along with several other web sites. It will sell quick when it's advertised because there are not many for sale and especially with this low of miles. That's why I bought it in the first place. The low mileage bike several years old is the best choice, you will save money on the purchase and you will save on teh insurance year after year. The DR650 has not changed much at all over the last several years.
  11. GaThumper

    DR350 Questions: from the FNG

    The DR650 has the ability to be lowered a bit without purchasing any lowering kit. You'll have to shorten the kickstand or buy a short one though.
  12. GaThumper

    DR350 Questions: from the FNG

    I have both a DR650 and a DR350 right now and if I was going to supermoto one of them it would be the DR650 hands down. It feels 10x better on the street to me. Stock gearing will cruise 90 with ease and handles great on the road with the proper tires. With the right setup for supermoto I'm sure it would be awesome. The 650 feels more at home on the twisties to me and that's why I bought my DR350 and will be selling my '03 650 soon. (I have a '79 Zuk GS1000E for pure street riding and can't keep them all!) I wanted a dual sport that was as much dirt biased as I could get without going to a "race" type engine like the KTM or the Husky and so far the 350 is meeting all my expectations. That's my .02 and may be all it's worth!
  13. You may want to try this over in the DR forum or better yet at Maximum Suzuki. From what I've read the OEM DR plates are fine, you probably need to replace the thrust washers and check the clearance on the basket at the same time since these are issues with teh DR350. Also check the splines on the basket for grooves and use some light sandpaper to smoothe them up.
  14. GaThumper

    GPS, hand held or handle bar mount?

    That's sweet! I just bought a 60CSx and I'm waiting on the Navigator DVD to arrive now. Looking at mounting options and Touratech certainly looks the best.
  15. GaThumper

    350 Slipping clutch Questions (remember me, I'm a newbie?)

    Since it's a DR350 go ahead and replace the thrust washers while you are in there. They cost so little and can cause problems when they wear. Have you had any problems with the bike wanting to creep when stopped in gear with the clutch in? Feels like you have let the clutch out just a bit? Or problems finding nuetral when you come to a stop in 1st or 2nd and then try to put in in nuetral? These are signs that the thrust washers may need replacing or you may need to check the clearance on the clutch basket. I had some problems with my clutch seeming to slip just a little and I realized I had the clutch lever adjusted too tight (very little slack in the cable befoer it picks up the clutch) I adjusted mine out where the lever moves just a touch before I feel it pick up the clutch and it doesn't seem to slip at all now. If you need detailed instructions or advice on the DR350 clutch check in over at the Maximum Suzuki forum. Lot's of nice and knowledgable DR350 guys there.
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