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About Rowdy

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  1. I hear ya! But currently i'm still a bit intimidated by the idea to drill holes into my rear frame, albeit them being only of a small diameter. But you are right this way the battery will stay put even when casing a double. However, when i try to picture the load a rear frame upper tubing will theoretically see during heavy casing or my fat ass landing on the seat, i think that vertical holes through the tubes will weaken it less. I'd guess that typical stress from catching the rear on some obstacle or flipping the bike upside down wil try to pivot the rear frame more around a horizontal axle that around a vertical one. Hence vertical holes will have less impact on real world frame strength. I'll give the various options some additional thoughts while the Austrian weather still is as shitty as it currently is. Rowdy
  2. People keep saying the WR450F battery carrier in the airbox lid restricts intake air flow in an unacceptable manner. Took off the seat and saw the misery. I decided i'll give it a try and came up with the following goals: <ul type="square"> [*]for the time being weight savings is considered secondary [*]retain sealed acid-lead battery [*]no cutting or drilling of genuine bike parts I took out the airbox lid and compensated the gaps at the screws with stacks of washers and then decided where to place the battery. As replacing the relais with solid state high current FETs will be a future project i settled on the following battery placement: <ul type="square">[*]hovering above the air filter [*]front side jammed against the rubber flap folded up for cushioning [*]front lower side resting on airbox opening (plastic on plastic, bad long term setup, will need some rubber spacing, from an old tube..) [*]rear battery end put into a custom bracket framed battery [*]braket will rest on bike frame via a hardwood pole overview [*]braket will be pulled forward (thereby jamming the battery against the stock rubber flap) by DIY rubber o-ring made from an old front tire tube result looks like this:small pic This dfinitely is a much bigger intake area than before, but of course it still is slightly more restricted than a battery less airbox. the whole project is documented here:WR450F battery bracket replaces air box lid TODO: The main problem is that the 8mm diameter hardwood stick i am using to support the bracket is slightly too high to allow the seat to correctly latch (e.g. to NOT sit on the support stick) Intermediate solution was to cut a "notch" into both ends of that stick 2mm lower thus making the whole setup sit 2mm lower in the airbox. This way the seat can be installed w/o problems. As this weakens the wooden stick i am worried about durability. Long term solution will be either <ul type="square">[*]replacing the wooden stick with a hollow brass tube [*]using a steel bracket shaped like that <pre><font class="small">code:<hr> --+ +-- | | | | | | | | +------+ </pre><hr> which would eliminate the need to cross sides right below the seat's plastic moulding. Engine noise is greatly increased though. But the tone is a super deep one, effective only at wide throttle openings at mid rpms. Not that there is anything wrong with that, mind you... I'll keep ya posted on the refinements. Rowdy
  3. Bastards! Of course they can: My dealer had already ordered the key, flywheel puller and gasket according to the Service Bulletin way before my WR450F did arrive in the crate. The part numbers are given in the Bulletin hence he can order them whenever he wants. Being very itchy about receiving my bike i gave him a hard time by frequently bugging him via phone asking whether the bike has already arrived and if he would be so kind and lap the flywheel to the crank although the Yamaha Bulletin doesn't say so etc.. He not only kept his cool but even called me from his shop one day around 8PM saying that the puller still didn't show up (backordered) so he now is making his own on the lathe(sp?) and that i can get my bike by noon next day! And of course he didn't charge me the work of lapping. That was some kind of customer service i've never seen before in the last 18 years. Rowdy
  4. Nope, data is unchanged, and copy pasted directly from the dealer's "service bulletin"! However, my official federal roadworthiness certificate, too, contains a longer string (JYACJ04WX3A0030??) as the official vehicle id. I'll check what the actual year+model code for the '03 WR450Fs is next time at my dealer's. The WR400Fs of old had 5BF and the YZ400Fs were 5BE, easily recognizeable on various parts of my WR400F that had 5BE molded into them if they were identical to the YZ but, 5BF for WR4000F only parts. These model codes typically do change every year, even within the various WR426F years. The Yamaha model code is my favourite way of specifying model/year and configuration when ordering spare parts (my '98 european WR400F was 5BF1 for instance) much safer than "year of making" or said odd serial numbers. Rowdy
  5. Austria. "Vehicle ID" or a more correcct translation from german would be Frame-number is JYACJ04WX3A0030?? (according to my road worthiness certificate). Rather odd, considering that the relatively non Yamaha Japan look and feel "service bulletin" at my dealers specified an id range of CJ04W-0000037 to CJ04W-0003669 (e.g. where did the X3 go and the leading JYA?) Anyhow, bike still runs fine (at 3°C below zero with snow blowing around horizontally, hope there'll be a little more summer comming up than what we had had) Rowdy
  6. I told the dealer before picking up my WR450F about the things going on in the US and that a couple of people checked taper match and found it to be slightly off. I asked him if he would be so kind to check taper fit when he has to remove the flywheel anyhow, due to the mandatory yamaha service bulletin and he said he will. Picked up my scoot today and he told me that "it was sitting only at the rear" meaning the taper fit produced metal to metal contact only near the engine side of the taper. He said, he consequently lapped the rotor onto the crank, took him half an hour, yamaha won't cover that work but glueing this in place "is not real solution". Apparently his honour as mechanic made him do it right than follow the cheap yamaha fix. He added he used loctite to glue the key in place like yamaha said, but made clear that he personally doesn't think much of this procedure. So, thanks to an apparently professional motorcycle dealer my WR450F got the Yamaha loctite 648 treatment PLUS a rotor mated to the crank by lapping. I feel muuch better now! Observation: the Bike is way to rich down low! Pulling the hot start lever does raise idle and not stall the engine after a couple of secs, like it would on my WR400F. The electric start is revving the crap out of the engine, disappointingly w/o firing her up, until one pulls the hot start! Kick starting is a first kick thing. Including the absolute very first kick of my bike (after switching on the ignition ) take care Rowdy
  7. Chaindrive, i totally agree with your opinion about a TAPERED fit using the woodruff key only as an alignment aid while putting the items together. A plastic key would do the very same job, alignment during assembly. What bothers me more is that Loctite 648 is a very strong mounting glue "hard to disassemble with normal tools" requiring "300°C" for disassembly. While removing a nut secured with L648 seems to be hard but doable a tapered fit will certainly require quite some heat (bad for the magnets in the flywhell i seem to recall) making removal of the flywheel ordeal best avoided. Admittedly, i didn't change the cam chain on my WR400F in +25000 miles but my XT600 thumper has a much heavier flywheel sitting on a tapered fit without noticeable amounts of Locite and i'd guess that a 600 cc engine will put much more stress on such a fit than a 400 cc. So why is a glueles, normal taper fit assembly apparently not providing enough of a saftey margin in our WR450F? To me that reads as if even a perfectly lapped taper, complete with a nice and low profile key won't be able to do the job right, hence the request for L648. I think the engineers ought have gone with a flatter taper when bumping up the displacement. But as long as the yamaha workshop degreases the taper surfaces good before locititening and uses a correct key in their pre shipment routine i'll simply try not to worry. Rowdy
  8. Freshly scribbled down at my favourite Austrian yamaha workshop: "mandatory Modification WR450F" serial numbers affected: CJ04W-0000037 to CJ04W-0003669 model types: 5TJ2 and 5TJ4 needed parts: 90280-03001-00 woodruff key 5TJ-15451-00-00 gasket needed tools: 90890-04141-00 flywhell puller reason: the woodruff key may break (no reason given only a pic of a single key with an odd stripe, probably wear, on the brink of dying?) procedure: - disassemble and remove stock key - reassemble with new key according to the following: - put Loctite 648 on key and whole crank taper - place rotor onto crank - torque rotor nut to 40 Nm (29ftlbs) - wait 2 minutes - remove nut - put Loctite (no specific number given) onto nut and washer - torque to 65 Nm (47 ftlbs?) - reinstall engine side case (my assumption: here you should use the gasket, advisory doesn't say so explicitly) - and refrain from starting engine for 24h! (very odd) end of procedure No lapping, no reason what is wrong with initial setup, no periodic retorqing requirements are given. The document definitely is a locally generated one, it doesn't bear the corporate look one would expect a worldwide item to have. But it is denoted as a mandatory modification, the dealer is requiered to call customers of shipped bikes and there's a form attached which the dealer is supposed to send in for every repair he has done. Personally i don't like that very much. It sounds like simply reasembling everything using a lot of glue. The required woodruff key has a -00 ending in its part number. When Yamaha comes up with some improved item they normally increment the trailing 00s. I'm currently not sure if it is a good idea to tear all that loctited things apart agains after my dealer had done the mod. But i would be much more at ease knowing the tapers are lapped and the key is okay. no risk no fun. Rowdy
  9. Rowdy

    WR450F woodruffkey too tall?

    Got off the phone with my riding buddy's yamaha workshop (sadly not allwoed to sell new bikes). He has got that Service Bulletin! I'll simply help him with his computer quirks and get me a photo copy of that bulletin. Check back here in a couple of hours. Rowdy
  10. Rowdy

    WR450F woodruffkey too tall?

    Chaindrive, i know what you mean regarding damaged taper fit once the woodruff key fails: Back in the ice age when we were young, stupid and innocent a buddy and i tortured an already worn out and not maintained Bultaco 370 Aplina. Eventually the woodruff key broke. We did make a replacement out of the support metal of the bumper of an old VW beetle (in europe every second farm house had some rusty beatle lying around). Needless to say the metal was way too soft, and did break in no time. Then damage could not be fixed anmore as the taper of the crank had been scarred by the ripped key from rotating w/o the flywheel comming along. Damage way beyond lapping, case closed. (we were lacking all funds to buy new parts, back then) Personally, i'll bug the dealer to let me see the bulletin, and maybe pull it all apart back home for a "better save than sorry" lap session, together with your suggested check of difference between key in and out. Rowdy
  11. My WR450F will hopefully arrive here in Austria this week, thus i asked the dealer if he has got any Service Bulletins regarding the woodruff key issue and whether he'll lap the flywheel to the crank or something. He said there actually is a bulletin but it required him to order a special woodruff key (which he already did) and to replace the original key with that new one, plus use some loctite stuff on the key(!) when assembling it. He definitely is not requested to lap anything! Confronted with the "US experiences" and the rumored Yamaha US service bulletin (which i myself only have heard about here on TT) he suggsted that maybe actually the original key is slightly too tall thus preventing a good full surface contact between crank and flywheel! Like as if the key's height slightly exceeds the sum of gap depth of the key's groove in the crank plus gap depth of the key's goove in the flywheel. This would be hardly noticeable, allow people to align the items correctly, tighten the nut to whatever torque they want and still prevent a good, full surface contact, thereby making the key a load bearding item which a woodruff key never is. Anyhow, i'll post when i get stranded in the woods with a sheared key greets Rowdy
  12. don't shock me like that! The carb as a spare is almost two grand without tax, over here! Bike ain't under warranty anymore, so we'll try that carb swapping test. Anyhow, thanks for the suggestion Rowdy
  13. 2001 Euro model of a buddy of mine. ran fine, fouled a couple of plugs until he got the idle mixture right. when i bent my wr400f's shock rod he loaned my his 426 for next day gravel pit WFO hill climb extravaganza. all ponies very alive and well, sweet throttle response.. *a couple of weeks of neglect* buddy and me drive to italy, break out the bikes and his is a popping mess that won't pick up gas, big, ugly hole when going from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 in a turn etc. we ended up disabling the accelerator pump and dropped the needle two notches => A#1 throttle response, no popping, first kick starting, killer topend, super fine tricky terrain throttle control blablabla. *a couple of weeks of shed time* he gets to a party and reports that he has to have the choke on all the time, no idle and lotsa hesitation w/o choke. Next day we set out for (last weekends) "riddle-ralley" so instead of doing something ingenious we simple take the carb apart, find all surfaces and jets super shiny clean raise the needle back to center clip and bike runs beautifully, again. next day he stupidly fires her up for a minute before setting up tent Next morning, guess whose bike needs a fresh plug. Furthermore turns out his 426 eats muuch more gas than mine. Later that day i decide to pass a rolling road block going 90mph and buddy Nobs goes WFO too. talk about killer acceleration.. but then... all of a sudden right after the passing maneuver, his 426 is back in popping land, banging the villages to kingdom come, loud enough that Karin on the 1100GS can hear him detonating while going +50 in the light drizzle. The strange part is that vienna, Tuscany and the Lower Austria area all are - on similar elevation (within 1200 feet) - the temps were at most 15°F apart - my WR400F was around every time and ran absolutely peerless w/o any adjusting whatsoever - his 426 is a low mileage bike, the carb to cylinder head boot feels fine and looks uncracked, carb slide is uncracked, too. I'd have suggested he put the needle between the .it and the stock pos, if it weren't for that change in behavior after a short WFO section, especially as we umm.. had an enormous WFO ball on the twisty road catching up to our buddies BMW and Transalp tankers after refueling w/o his bike starting to pop again. any clues how a bike can display such a Jekyll and Hide personality? TIA Rowdy